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  1. #1

    2000 XL 1200 LTD How to keep this 20yr old ski running well.

    Iím new to wave runners and picked up a 20 year old ski in beautiful condition. It only has 97 hours. I just installed a new rebuilt motor and had the carbs rebuilt. Only had a short time out on it because I
    didnít have it completed until late September. Thereís still a few gallons of break in gas with the oil added. My mechanic said everything he could see looked good. Didnít want him to take apart the jet pump and check everything because of the added cost and the clocked hours. There are a few issues with how itís running but I think thatís due to the break in gas and the motor getting a double dose of oil. The plugs are oil fouled. Canít wait to get a fresh tank of gas. When it gets up on plane it really goes. It does have some cavitation issues but hopefully I fixed that with a pump shoe seal. Anyways, hereís my question......

    How often do the carbs need to be rebuilt or cleaned. Iím using Amsoil Interceptor as a mechanic recommendation if that matters.

    I hear the oil lines are prone to popping off so Iím going to keep the inspections a priority. Since everything was disassembled for the work, all the clamps are new. The hoses are in really good shape. Itís never seen salt water and never will. Itís all stock and Iím only using it on the Illinois River for weekend cruising. Iím not modifying it and goes fast enough. Iím hardly ever going to go WOT.

    Any advise to keep this old ski running for many years to come will be appreciated. The previous owner only had it for a short period of time until he blew the motor. He didnít do anything other than add oil and gas.

  2. #2
    Dave in DE's Avatar
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    Amsoil interceptor is great oil and designed for power valve 2 strokes. I run it myself in my GPr. If you become a preferred member you can buy it direct from them very cheep. around $130 for 4 gallon case.
    its best to run ethanol free fuel if you can get it. that will help a lot on carb issues. as for up keep. grease the mid shaft bearing with a couple pumps of good marine grease every spring. flush after every outing and rinse out the inside and let dry. I use a small wet/dry vac to get all the water out of the inside this will help in drying it out. stabilize your fuel with startron before putting it up for the winter. fog the motor before putting it to bed for the winter. I clean the inside out with the foaming bleach scrubbing bubbles and dawn dish soap. it cuts the mess well and eliminates any mold and mildew. I clean it in the spring and again in the fall before I shrink wrap it for the winter. also use a good high quality leather/vinyl, cleaner/conditioner on the seat a couple time a year.

    hope this helps,
    Dave


  3. #3
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    I've got close to 400 hours on my 2000 GPR, with the 1200 PV motor. I use super tech oil in mine. No gumming of power valves at all. Oil lines should be made of tygon, cinched with oetiker clamps, and checked every couple of years. As for the carbs, every 2 years is how often I do mine, 3 years is the maximum IMHO. Got alot of hard riding on mine....its held up well after all the carb mods. I'd recommend the recipe for the carbs, drilled return mod also, as a bare minimum, also waveater clips for the PV linkages. Makes it bulletproof.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by butterbean_29512 View Post
    I've got close to 400 hours on my 2000 GPR, with the 1200 PV motor. I use super tech oil in mine. No gumming of power valves at all. Oil lines should be made of tygon, cinched with oetiker clamps, and checked every couple of years. As for the carbs, every 2 years is how often I do mine, 3 years is the maximum IMHO. Got alot of hard riding on mine....its held up well after all the carb mods. I'd recommend the recipe for the carbs, drilled return mod also, as a bare minimum, also waveater clips for the PV linkages. Makes it bulletproof.
    would definitely be interested is doing this since my ski is stored but easily accessible in a heated garage. Do I need the 95 jet for my carbs? Where can I get one? I did see the sticky on this. Is it really that simple? Drill and install the jet? I just had the carbs rebuilt. It looks like removing them is a little involved but I’m up to the task. Any help would be appreciated

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave in DE View Post
    Amsoil interceptor is great oil and designed for power valve 2 strokes. I run it myself in my GPr. If you become a preferred member you can buy it direct from them very cheep. around $130 for 4 gallon case.
    its best to run ethanol free fuel if you can get it. that will help a lot on carb issues. as for up keep. grease the mid shaft bearing with a couple pumps of good marine grease every spring. flush after every outing and rinse out the inside and let dry. I use a small wet/dry vac to get all the water out of the inside this will help in drying it out. stabilize your fuel with startron before putting it up for the winter. fog the motor before putting it to bed for the winter. I clean the inside out with the foaming bleach scrubbing bubbles and dawn dish soap. it cuts the mess well and eliminates any mold and mildew. I clean it in the spring and again in the fall before I shrink wrap it for the winter. also use a good high quality leather/vinyl, cleaner/conditioner on the seat a couple time a year.

    hope this helps,
    Dave
    thanks Dave! I do have the non ethanol available near me. I plan on using it

  6. #6

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    That's the key to minimal carb rebuilds. I don't have readily available ethanol free gas where I live and I'm tearing into the carbs of my two, 2-stroke skis every single year. Supposedly there is a marina near me that is getting ethanol free gas. I've got their advertisement out of a local magazine and I need to give them a call and see if they ever got the good gasoline.

  7. #7
    Dave in DE's Avatar
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    There are a couple of apps that will find local ethenol free fuel. I use one called "Pure gas" and there are others. There very helpful especially if traveling an unfurmilure area.

    The app gives station location, cost, octane rating, ECT...

  8. #8
    steve45's Avatar
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    Don't just 'inspect' the oil lines, REPLACE them! Use polyurethane hose. Make sure the hoses are longer than needed and prime them when you install them. Secure them with .025" stainless steel safety wire. Two wraps around the hose, then twist it until it's fairly tight.

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