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  1. #21
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    I'd have to agree with Grumpy on all accounts, as all the coupler flanges I've seen are solid ......... HOWEVER I just performed a parts fiche scan, and it appears we have a revised coupler in the wild !!

    Starting what seems to be in 2018, the part has been moved from 6S5-45593-00-94 to 6S5-G5593-00-00, to replace ALL years, and given that the significant digits are different, we can say this is indeed a new part design -vs- a re-production run.
    Further evidence of this bung/plug is reflected in the fiche drawings when comparing the previous years, as now the post-2017 drawings illustrate what appears to be a machined-hole in the center of the flange body - yet missing the bung piece as a separate list part or maybe implied being included with the flange. No evidence of threads in the drawing so likely a pressed-fit plug.

    My inclination is that this modification is likely due to simplified manufacturing techniques, rather than to address a past design-flaw or enhanced capability. Heck, if anything, this new coupler offers us another potential source of water into the hull.

    So back to the OP's question ... given this new info, it might be possible to just glue (JB Weld, 5200, etc...) the piece back in-place.
    As far as getting the shaft out... as Grumpy mentioned, support the outer rubber ring holder on the press-plates, and push on the aft end of the mid-shaft (nothing touching the coupler flange at all).
    To push shaft back in, push on the coupler end, I'd leave the bung plug out and find a piece of solid round bar or socket-driver having the same diameter as the mid-shaft, as to fit into the bung area without slipping inside the hollow shaft itself.


  2. #22

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    Thank you all for your input. And yeah, really think jb weld would do the job, i will atleast test. As far as the shaft goes, ill talked to a friend earlier today that work alot with this kind of work, he has a shop press, so he will look at this, also the main shaft that im also gonna rebuild.

  3. #23

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    The couplers aren't expensive (at least not in the US), so I would just replace it instead of trying to repair it. Again, it's holding back the water in the pump tunnel.

    As for the new design, it would help to know what ski/motor you're working on. My response applies to the MR-1 motor. The 6S5 part is for the newer 1800 motor and the parts are not interchangeable.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy_steven View Post
    The couplers aren't expensive (at least not in the US), so I would just replace it instead of trying to repair it. Again, it's holding back the water in the pump tunnel.

    As for the new design, it would help to know what ski/motor you're working on. My response applies to the MR-1 motor. The 6S5 part is for the newer 1800 motor and the parts are not interchangeable.

    The coupler wasent as pricey as i though. But its the shipping to sweden that often is the biggest cost, and duty and vat.

    Im putting a MR1 (Fx140) 2004, in a Vx 2014 hull. Not really building a moster or anything. Just a project i bought years ago. Dident know it would take this much time and money. But i need to finish this now lucky that places like this exist. Alot of knowledge here that i dont have.

  5. #25

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    Sorry, pal, but you'll have to take the good with the bad. I'd pay more for parts to be surrounded by all of those beautiful Swedish women.

    There's a lot of knowledge here that I don't have... and a lot of the knowledge that I do have, I got from here.

  6. #26

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    Hi all.. Just got a call from my friend that doing the work on the shaft. He said it seem to be in bad shape. Due to wear for bearings. But when he sent me the pics i wasent so sure. But i have to little knowlegde to say. What worries him most i the "jack" fardest way from the coupler in the pic. But some shaft have jacks there? Would love some help with thisClick image for larger version. 

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  7. #27

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    Doesn't look bad to me. Is it grooved, or is it just polished from rubbing against the seals?

    The more important thing to check is the internal splines. That's what goes bad on these. They wear down and get to the point where the drive shaft just spins inside.



  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy_steven View Post
    Doesn't look bad to me. Is it grooved, or is it just polished from rubbing against the seals?

    The more important thing to check is the internal splines. That's what goes bad on these. They wear down and get to the point where the drive shaft just spins inside.


    Grooved due to from damage some seals i guess. That why i though i need to replace it.

  9. #29

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    Just an update. Its all done. And with that piece a knocked loose from the coupler. Well.. JB weld.
    Did alittle presure test tonight. Compair first and water over night. Seems it will not get more presure then that.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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