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  1. #1
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    Ultra 150 & STXr guage repair

    I've done several Seadoo gauges and thought I'd give a Kawi gauge a try. I verified this guage was still working with a strong flashlight and my polarized sunglasses. I could just make out most of it. The sun had ruined the main center portion of the polarized film. Not to mention had put a bunch of cracks in the internal lens. Pic of what I started with.
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  2. #2
    Myself's Avatar
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    I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut around the edge just behind the face.
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  3. #3
    Myself's Avatar
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    When you get it open there are 5 small phillips head screws that need removed.
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  4. #4
    Myself's Avatar
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    And when the board is removed it looks like this!! The gold rectangle is the gauge background. You could cut a piece of any color graphic vinyl and change this if you want to customize. The white rubber strip is the "ribbon cable" if you will. That's how the signal is passed from the board to the lcd display.
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  5. #5
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    I used a very small flat blade screwdriver with tape over the tip to carefully pry the lcd out of the housing. It has to tilt a bit, the top (opposite the white strip) has to come up a bit first. In this pic you can see the secondary lens which was shot in this one. And it's laying on a new piece of polarizer film. On these displays the little graphics with the tach numbers are actually a part of the original polarizer film. If its all sunbaked you can take it completely off the lcd glass and put on new film...BUT if you want the graphics you see on that glass you would need to have them printed on vinyl and lay them OVER your new polarizer film. Again, I could see some cool customization going on here! This one was all intact just not polarized any more. I laid the new film right over the top. I also chose to completely omit the internal lens upon reassembly cause it was shot. To do this you MUST make up 1/8" thickness around the lcd edge to keep the white strip pressed against the circuit board.
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  6. #6
    Myself's Avatar
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    Next everything got put back together with a little bit of marine epoxy I had, then lightly clamped for 48 hours.
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  7. #7
    Myself's Avatar
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    And here is the finished guage reinstalled with a new face decal. I had trouble getting a good pic cause of glare and reflection but it's now plainly legible again.
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  8. #8
    steve45's Avatar
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    Good job!

    EDIT: One thing you really should do if you take one of these meters apart is to apply a good coat of Conformal Coating to the circuit board. Put a couple of layers around the solder joints where the wires attach. If you ever get a water leak in the display, this area is very likely to corrode quickly and ruin the board. Also, seal the rubber plug and the wires where they pass through the rubber plug.
    Last edited by steve45; 11-23-2019 at 12:02 PM.

  9. #9
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Thats great, thanks for posting it.

    Sean

  10. #10

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    I've opened up and fixed a few gauges. Instead of cutting the case, I bend back the soft plastic skirt that wraps around from the front. Underneath, there's a seam where the front piece attaches to the rear case. It's pretty easy to split the seam and separate the 2 pieces with a utility knife. When the repair is done, I epoxy the two pieces together at the seam for a waterproof seal. Of course, using epoxy might make it impossible to open it up the same way again.

    Might not make any difference to do it this way, but why have two seams if you can avoid it?

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