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  1. #1

    Bogging 2000 gp1200r

    Hey guys,
    New to the forum. Iíve been looking through the forum and it seems like there is a ton of information on the problem Iím having but it also seems like it could be a few things. I bought the jet ski with a blown piston number 2 it looked like a cold seizure. I rebuilt the entire engine top to bottom and the carbs. Compression is 120 120 120 after the rebuild. The previous owner told me that he had to feather onto the gas so it wouldnít stall from idle. After the rebuild I am still having trouble starting it unless I put the premix directly into the cylinders. When I try to give it throttle it bogs and stalls. Seems like the problem is in the carburetors. The ski has a dplate and chip. Itís accelerator pump is still in it and it was converted to premix. When I rebuilt the carbs I did not rejet them. Where should I begin?

    Thanks,
    Jon

  2. #2
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    Did you do the drilled return mod? Leak down test after you put engine back together? Sounds like a carb issue, but also could be a gasket or seal leaking. The recipe for success is well documented for the 66v engines. We highly recommend it. Did you remove the limiter caps and remove the screws to properly clean the passages? Also, it is next to impossible to cold seize an engine.

  3. #3
    Hey thanks for the reply. I did not do the drilled return mod. It looks pretty straight forward but I’m new to PWCs in general and wanted the opinions of experienced people before doing anything. Do you have a link to the proper way to mod it?

    Also, by cold seizure I mean that the engine goes from idle to pinned right away causing the piston to expand faster than the cylinder sleeve, resulting in damage. A leak down test should be performed, I just need to find the equipment to do it.

  4. #4
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    There aren't sleeves on the 66V motors (unless previously rebuilt using exchange cylinders from SBT or similar). I agree with butterbean, doubt it was a cold seizure.

    As for the carbs. What rebuild kits did you use for the carbs? Were needle and seats replaced as well? Accelerator pump functioning properly? What was pop off pressure when carbs were put back together? Did you reuse the needle springs or replace from kit?

    Here is a link to the drilled return mod. http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=177671


  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by raiderteen View Post
    There aren't sleeves on the 66V motors (unless previously rebuilt using exchange cylinders from SBT or similar). I agree with butterbean, doubt it was a cold seizure.

    As for the carbs. What rebuild kits did you use for the carbs? Were needle and seats replaced as well? Accelerator pump functioning properly? What was pop off pressure when carbs were put back together? Did you reuse the needle springs or replace from kit?

    Here is a link to the drilled return mod. http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=177671

    Thanks Iím going to keep looking into this over the weekend. I used the mikuni rebuild kits for all 3 carbs and I used the original springs. I never measured pop off which was a novice mistake but Iím going to pull the carbs this weekend and test them. I did not replace the needle or needle seats. Iím open to anything, I bought this thing just so I could do work on it because I love these types of projects.

  6. #6
    I decided I’m going to do the accel pump delete, rejet, add f/a’s according to osidebill’s procedure. I am also going to do the drilled return mod. Before putting the carbs in I will check pop off, and hope it solves my issues.

  7. #7
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaugi View Post
    I decided I’m going to do the accel pump delete, rejet, add f/a’s according to osidebill’s procedure. I am also going to do the drilled return mod. Before putting the carbs in I will check pop off, and hope it solves my issues.
    Don't get bogged down on the pop off. Mikuni has a chart for that for a reason. For the recipe....95 gram springs and 1.5 N&S and forget it! Ensure the pivot arm is level with the carb base. If you use genuine parts there should be no need for adjustment on the pivot arm. I run mine with chokes intact, and I run my highs and lows an extra 1/4 turn open. Runs slightly rich, but runs well. My ski is a mildly modded 00 1200r.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by butterbean_29512 View Post
    Don't get bogged down on the pop off. Mikuni has a chart for that for a reason. For the recipe....95 gram springs and 1.5 N&S and forget it! Ensure the pivot arm is level with the carb base. If you use genuine parts there should be no need for adjustment on the pivot arm. I run mine with chokes intact, and I run my highs and lows an extra 1/4 turn open. Runs slightly rich, but runs well. My ski is a mildly modded 00 1200r.
    Thanks! I got rid of the accelerator pump, added flame arresters and rejetted. I did the 95 gram springs and 1.5 n&s. The thing fired up immediately and didnít bog anymore. Need a warm day for a water test to make sure all is well but things are looking up!

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