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  1. #1
    martincom's Avatar
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    2004 Virage i 2019/2020 Winter Project

    I commenced work on my second winter project a couple of weeks ago. I purchased this Virage early last fall with a blown engine. My plan was to utilize a spare engine I had removed from another when the stator developed open coils, salvaging the stator and flywheel, if necessary, from the blown engine.



    As a fuel pressure regulator reinforcement and fuel hose replacement is a part of every project, requiring the fuel tank to be slid ahead, I have found this makes removing/installing the exhaust resonator much easier. Once the exhaust resonator is loose, sliding it ahead, into the space normally occupied by the fuel tank, and removing ti after the engine has been extracted. Likewise, placing the resonator in the fuel tank cavity before setting the engine for re-installation.





    It'll buff out, right?





    Ouch! That must have hurt.





    The donor engine had lost flywheel magnets:







    Once the flywheel magnet debris was cleaned up, closer inspection of the donor engine found the crankshaft was damaged. This was likely from sudden stoppage when the flywheel magnets came loose. Grasping the PTO end of the crankshaft with one hand, the MAG end with the other, and attempting to rotate each end in an opposite direction revealed about 10 degrees of "slop" in the crankshaft. So there went by donor engine. I decided I'd go with an SBT longblock replacement that'll pick up at their facility when we snowbird to Florida in January. Once I prepped the donor engine for a core return, I could view, through the reed cage opening, that issues was between the MAG outer rod counterweight and the flywheel taper.

    I continued work on the hull and other items as far as I could, re-enforcing the fuel pressure regulator, adding O-ring and clamp to oil tank sending unit, buffing the hull, washing out the hull interior, scrubbing the seat and storage buckets clean, etc.
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  2. #2
    martincom's Avatar
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    Here is another preventive item I perform. On the rear of the EMM mounting bracket is a piece of rubber weatherstripping utilized as a bumper, to prevent the bracket from rubbing through the hull fiberglass wall. These are almost always loose and about to fall off or do fall off. To prevent this, I glue this weatherstrip to the EMM bracket with 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, clamp, and let dry overnight. It makes a strong bond and alleviates the issue of it potentially falling off and a hole being rubbed through the hull wall.

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  3. #3
    martincom's Avatar
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    I picked up the replacement longblock from SBT while snow birding in FL for a few days last month. I saved some money on shipping by doing so. The new engine installed without issue. I won't elaborate on the details, as I've covered those in previous project threads.

    This was actually a first and a surprise. I didn't have to change any of the engine mount shim packs. I had assumed with the different engine changing the shim packs to provide engine to driveshaft alignment was going to be a given. However, I was pleasantly surprised when I found it was "dead on". This is the first Polaris watercraft that I've had the engine out of where the alignment was not off, regardless of an engine change or not! Go figure.

    As with pretty much every Polaris watercraft I've had, the reverse mechanism required re-working to correct tight clearances and cam timing. Also, the reverse cable adjustment, at the through hull point, was, as usual, way out of adjustment.

    I replaced the front storage bin weatherstrip as oil fill spills had pretty much done in the adhesive on the OEM weatherstrip. I re-adjusted the front hood and seat latches, also.

    Another one is ready for the water.

















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    Last edited by martincom; 02-18-2020 at 05:20 PM.

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  5. #4
    radio-active's Avatar
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    Nice work. I'm told the shims account for the variability in the hull, not the engine mount surfaces -- which are cast or machined and should be dead on from engine to engine. The hulls, on the other hand, are hand laid fiberglass and will vary quite a bit.

  6. #5
    martincom's Avatar
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    Yes, I would agree most of the variation would be in the hull. However, as the shims are 0.030", they could also be compensating for casting differences.

  7. #6
    radio-active's Avatar
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    Hey, your boats always look beautiful in your pics, what's your buffing technique, tools, polish, etc? If you don't mind revealing it?

  8. #7
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    I love these rehab projects. So satisfying. Looks fantastic!

  9. #8
    martincom's Avatar
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    I had a member inquire about that last year. I briefly touched on it in this thread.

    One of the things that are usually a real mess are aftermarket decals, such as registration numbers, DNR behave yourself labels, and just plain stupid decals. I usually start with the heat gun, warm them up, and peel off the actual decal portion. However, there is always a sticky mess of adhesive left on the hull. I utilize DuPont 3812 Enamel Reducer to cut through that. It works well and it doesn't attack lacquer, clear coat and other modern urethane paint finishes. I'm not sure if DuPont is still manufacturing it, as the last gallon I purchased had a 3812 part number on the can, but a different brand. There are not too many folks spraying enamel any more, so they may have sold it off. It is not cheap, but what refinishing products are? About $40/gallon the last time I purchased it. A gallon will last me 10 years or so. Some of the farm supply stores still sell a fair amount of enamel paint and I'm sure have some form of reducer (thinner). I'm just not sure how it would work to remove adhesive as I haven't tested it.

    Once I have the decals off and the adhesive cleaned up, then I buff as there is usually always a sun fade outline of the decals on the hull.

    I've been thinking about testing some counter top seam filler to fill chips in the gel coat. It comes in many different colors and you can mix colors to change the tint. I haven't tested it yet to see how well it will adhere.

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