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  1. #11
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdlvx View Post
    ...
    I haven't been on too many 4 stroke skis, but the ones I have been on don't come close to hitting hard. Some with more power than a pro 785.

    ...
    Come ride with us sometime. Or find someone local with a nicely set up Yamaha GP1800. Mid-range and up acceleration is impressive.

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  2. #12
    Sage18's Avatar
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    Awesome. Thanks for the info guys, some really great details. I knew I’d get my answer in here. Always seen post on here about the 785’s and now I think I’ll get one.
    Last edited by Sage18; 10-13-2019 at 09:36 AM.

  3. #13

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    you'll love it if it runs good there really isn't any better stock small ski ,the gpr1800 is nice ,fast but to big for me and i'm older and still love my 785's
    I have about 30 valve motors and cables if anyone ever needs one also any other 785 part

  4. #14

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    I'd like to try one sometime but I agree 100% with lugs, they just feel so big and heavy. I feel like I don't have much influence with my weight, like you just hold on tight and let the machine do the work. If I mastered the pro 785 I would have gotten bored of it and got something new by now. I do have the stand ups but I have more fun cutting back and forth as hard as I can on the superjet at 20 mph than I do racing around in straight lines going fast. But I don't really ever go in straight lines fast. When I'm on the pro I just carve until I run out of breath then drive in a straight line for a little bit then start carving again. Usually after an hour my body is cooked and I'm sore for a few days. And pro 785 isn't for going fast in straight lines. It's for carving at 40 to 50 mph. Even when Pro 785 was brand new I don't think it wasn't the fastest top speed boat you could buy, even in Polaris's line up. But it handles hard and gets to 45mph very quickly.

    The sport has changed a ton since the late 90s, and I think a pro 785 is one of the best machines to represent that era.

    Lugs did you check your PMs? I was interested in a good ride plate and intake grate.

  5. #15
    Sage18's Avatar
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    I got a lead on another one. Picking up now, looks like it has not been run in years been sitting in a barn and he just wants it gone. Looks pretty decent. For free with registration. Looks like a winter project just fell in my lap. Do I dare turn it over? I put a little gas and oil mix in each spark plug hole and it moved by hand...

  6. #16

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    Jealous.

  7. #17

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    Maybe I'm greedy but I would buy that one for $1500 and then keep the other one as a parts boat. Pull it apart over the winter and if you think you can fix it get it going. If not you have all the parts you ever need. if that one that's been sitting for a while has a lot of problems you could easily spend $1500 in parts + labor. Just to have my crank done with new bearings and to have the new rods put in was around $500, and another $300 for the connecting rods. You can almost always find what you need to fix a pro but sometimes it gets too expensive. And with the price of a good pro going for around $2500 today a lot of them are not worth fixing unless you really like the pro 785.

    Two pros for $1500 would be awesome, I'm jealous. Two boats like that, best case scenario you have two running pros, worst case you have all the parts you need to keep the other one going. $1500 for a pro 785 is a good deal by itself.

    Having spare parts on hand means when something goes wrong youre not scouring the internet and forums looking for the part. You just go outside, grab it, and move put it back together.

    One thing I noticed about having two pros, as others mentioned these skis are really finicky. But if you have two you can compare the two skis and it's a lot easier to work with and tell if something isn't running like it should. I think it's hard because a pro 785, even with something like exhaust valves not even working, still runs pretty good compared to some skis.

    I don't know if you're familiar with Polaris skis but as long as the battery is in you can press the MODE button to wake up the display, then keep pressing MODE until you get to the hour meter. There is a good chance that pro sitting in the barn has hardly any hours on it. Which might actually be a bad thing because all the rubber and seals would be dried out and might need to be replaced.

    My project pro was a total mess, to the point where if someone told me someone intentionally sabotaged the ski I would believe them. It took me about a year to get it sorted out. But that was a really special case because the guy I bought it from must have an IQ below 60. He did literally everything wrong you could do on a ski. I think that kind of mess up is a special find, I can't believe there are that many people out there that are that bad at engines.

    xlint was kind enough to really help me out, but if I had to fix that project on my own I would have ended up spending more money than I would have just to buy a running one. Just my two cents, not sure how experienced you are with wrenching on stuff but it really sucks when you finally get the ski going and it's late August. Trust me, I know.

  8. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdlvx View Post
    ...

    I don't know if you're familiar with Polaris skis but as long as the battery is in you can press the MODE button to wake up the display, then keep pressing MODE until you get to the hour meter.

    ... rubber and seals would be dried out...
    The Polaris MFD are known to sometimes self-reset the engine hours meter to zero if left connected with a battery that slowly fades the voltage down towards zero. At some point as the voltage sags the MFD goes a little crazy and erases the hour counter.

    Which means the displayed hours might be correct, or the MFD might have self-reset the hours at some point in time. In fact, I have posted how to manually reset the MFD hour counter on the regular trim MFD.

    The Pro 785 uses a unique ‘Fast Trim’ MFD to match the fast acting electric trim motor used on the Pro models. At least one version of the ‘pro’ MFD cannot be manually reset for engine hours, IIRC. More details can be found via my signature link, in the MFD sections.

    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do


    Rubber seals tend to dry out and age from heat and passage of time. Old engine crankshaft seals are old seals, even if there are very few running hours on the engine. Seals can also wear with use, so an engine with lots of running hours may/will also want new seals.

    As always with any brand and model of older watercraft, the only way to make it reliable is to spend the time to dig into it. Check everything, do all the recommended maintenance and upgrades. Go through everything from fuel system to steering to driveline and jet pump, end to end. Often there are multiple problems that need attention, which you want to find in your shop, not in the middle of the water somewhere.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sage18 View Post
    I got a lead on another one. Picking up now, looks like it has not been run in years been sitting in a barn and he just wants it gone. Looks pretty decent. For free with registration. Looks like a winter project just fell in my lap. Do I dare turn it over? I put a little gas and oil mix in each spark plug hole and it moved by hand...
    crank it over no big deal as long as you lube up the cylinders you'll be fine to check it out


  10. #20
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    Should I pull the heads off to take a look at the pistons?
    Last edited by Sage18; 10-18-2019 at 08:21 PM. Reason: Double post

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