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  1. #11
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Sean
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  2. #12
    Pacer's Avatar
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    I havenít done it in a few years, but if you ground the blue and yellow wire that goes to the gauge it will take it out of slow mode.

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  4. #13
    steve45's Avatar
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    Is it water resistant?

  5. #14
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Is it water resistant?
    Ip66 not rated for submersion but rated for water jets. The buttons were the leak path I was worried about but they seem to have good quality seals. The weak point seems to be where the wiring goes in but even still, it looks of reasonably high quality.

    I would expect it to last of you flipped the ski over but not if you left it in the bottom of a bucket.

    EDIT: I did some light reading and it looks like the fuel level range is from 510(F) to 0(E) on the gauge while the Kawasaki sending unit is 0(F) to ~8130(E). I will upload the gauge section of the manual later today if I remember.

    The gauge manual is located here: https://kosonorthamerica.com/instructions/BB017B00.pdf

    My thinking on how to work this is as follows

    Install new (included) water temp sensor somewhere, location TBD
    Tee off existing oil pressure switch location and install additional oil pressure switch, run wire up to new gauge for oil pressure warning light
    Adapt existing speed sensor to new gauge
    Plan tach adapter: use either wrap around pickup or tap off coil positive (per gauge manual)

    The fuel level gauge will need an adapter circuit and one of these boxes I think. Alternatively we can use a different sending unit. I have a no-float unit from hardin marine
    Fuel level gauge adapter: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd748.htm
    Manual : https://www.tanksinc.com/pdf/MeterMa...alTanksInc.pdf
    New sending unit: https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-211-...40-33-ohm.aspx


    Sean
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 10-18-2019 at 09:08 AM.

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  7. #15
    skydivepaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    Ip66 not rated for submersion but rated for water jets. The buttons were the leak path I was worried about but they seem to have good quality seals. The weak point seems to be where the wiring goes in but even still, it looks of reasonably high quality.

    I would expect it to last of you flipped the ski over but not if you left it in the bottom of a bucket.

    EDIT: I did some light reading and it looks like the fuel level range is from 510(F) to 0(E) on the gauge while the Kawasaki sending unit is 0(F) to ~8130(E). I will upload the gauge section of the manual later today if I remember.

    The gauge manual is located here: https://kosonorthamerica.com/instructions/BB017B00.pdf

    My thinking on how to work this is as follows

    Install new (included) water temp sensor somewhere, location TBD
    Tee off existing oil pressure switch location and install additional oil pressure switch, run wire up to new gauge for oil pressure warning light
    Adapt existing speed sensor to new gauge
    Plan tach adapter: use either wrap around pickup or tap off coil positive (per gauge manual)

    The fuel level gauge will need an adapter circuit and one of these boxes I think. Alternatively we can use a different sending unit. I have a no-float unit from hardin marine
    Fuel level gauge adapter: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd748.htm
    Manual : https://www.tanksinc.com/pdf/MeterMa...alTanksInc.pdf
    New sending unit: https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-211-...40-33-ohm.aspx


    Sean
    Sean, I fitted a replacement gauge to my 05 stx a couple of years ago when the clocks went kaput.
    I got one of these:
    http://www.acewell-meter.co.uk/Acewe...on=full&id=222


    Really wanted the analogue tacho as it is easier to read than a digital one. This unit was rated to IP66 and the company said it would be fine in fresh water but wouldn't guarantee it in salt water.
    I had the same issue with the fuel sender, I thought about replacing it with an aftermarket sender but the design of the kawasaki sender made it difficult to find a sender that would fit without cutting the fuel tank up.
    I managed to use resistors to adjust the output to match the gauge. The kawasaki fuel sender has a series (4 If i remember) of collars that move up and down as the fuel level alters. These collars adjust the resistance reading for the gauge. The problem is the collars do not all have the same resistance reading!!
    I was only concerned that the gauge would be accurate from half a tank to empty so I knew when to refill the ski. So the gauge would not be accurate when full but as soon as the gauge went to half full I knew it was accurate from that point
    I will have a look in my garage tonight as I noted down the resistance readings required.

    For the oil pressure, I put a T piece in.
    RPM was a coil over one of the HT leads.
    Didn't bother with the water temp, I left the original one hooked up to the ECU. I figured if it did overheat it would tell the ECU and put it in limp mode.
    For the speed I mounted the sensor next to the little spinny wheel at the back of the ski (these have magnets embedded in the ends)
    Took some calibrating with my phone GPS as it was reading 120 MPH first time out.

    Good luck with the gauges, drop me a PM if you get stuck as I may remember what I did to get mine working.

    Paul
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  8. #16
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skydivepaul View Post
    Sean, I fitted a replacement gauge to my 05 stx a couple of years ago when the clocks went kaput.
    I got one of these:
    http://www.acewell-meter.co.uk/Acewe...on=full&id=222



    For the speed I mounted the sensor next to the little spinny wheel at the back of the ski (these have magnets embedded in the ends)
    Took some calibrating with my phone GPS as it was reading 120 MPH first time out.

    Paul
    Think I would have left well enough alone!

  9. #17
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skydivepaul View Post
    Sean, I fitted a replacement gauge to my 05 stx a couple of years ago when the clocks went kaput.
    I got one of these:
    http://www.acewell-meter.co.uk/Acewe...on=full&id=222


    Really wanted the analogue tacho as it is easier to read than a digital one. This unit was rated to IP66 and the company said it would be fine in fresh water but wouldn't guarantee it in salt water.
    I had the same issue with the fuel sender, I thought about replacing it with an aftermarket sender but the design of the kawasaki sender made it difficult to find a sender that would fit without cutting the fuel tank up.
    I managed to use resistors to adjust the output to match the gauge. The kawasaki fuel sender has a series (4 If i remember) of collars that move up and down as the fuel level alters. These collars adjust the resistance reading for the gauge. The problem is the collars do not all have the same resistance reading!!
    I was only concerned that the gauge would be accurate from half a tank to empty so I knew when to refill the ski. So the gauge would not be accurate when full but as soon as the gauge went to half full I knew it was accurate from that point
    I will have a look in my garage tonight as I noted down the resistance readings required.

    For the oil pressure, I put a T piece in.
    RPM was a coil over one of the HT leads.
    Didn't bother with the water temp, I left the original one hooked up to the ECU. I figured if it did overheat it would tell the ECU and put it in limp mode.
    For the speed I mounted the sensor next to the little spinny wheel at the back of the ski (these have magnets embedded in the ends)
    Took some calibrating with my phone GPS as it was reading 120 MPH first time out.

    Good luck with the gauges, drop me a PM if you get stuck as I may remember what I did to get mine working.

    Paul
    Yeah the fuel level is tricky. I cut the tank on my nasty ski but I have been looking at older yamaha sending units that may work in the stock location.

    Kawasaki really likes non-linear sensor ranges for some reason. The fuel level is tough since its an odd range to start with as well.

    I didn't even think about just tadding the sensor off the stock paddle wheel, thats really simple and a good idea.

    Thanks for sharing.

    Sean

  10. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pacer View Post
    I havenít done it in a few years, but if you ground the blue and yellow wire that goes to the gauge it will take it out of slow mode.
    That never worked for me. I have a 2007 12F. Has been in slo mode all season. I tried that. SDW. Maybe cause the gauge is totally shot.

  11. #19
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJS0712F View Post
    That never worked for me. I have a 2007 12F. Has been in slo mode all season. I tried that. SDW. Maybe cause the gauge is totally shot.
    Which side did you ground? That is probably an obvious answer but I want to confirm since I have never messed with it.

    On another note, I can flash the ecu to a pre slo mode ecu if you want to try that.

    Sean

  12. #20
    skydivepaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    Yeah the fuel level is tricky. I cut the tank on my nasty ski but I have been looking at older yamaha sending units that may work in the stock location.

    Kawasaki really likes non-linear sensor ranges for some reason. The fuel level is tough since its an odd range to start with as well.

    I didn't even think about just tadding the sensor off the stock paddle wheel, thats really simple and a good idea.

    Thanks for sharing.

    Sean
    No problem.
    Slo mode is disabled by grounding the blue/yellow wire as someone else said

    The non linear sensor is a pain as all gauges expect a linear resistance from full to empty.
    I can't find my resistance measurement that I added to make it more linear. I managed to have it reading accurate (sort of) from half to empty



    Here is a short video of mine when I got it working. I use some 5mm black perspex to cover the original clock outline then fixed the new gauge to the perspex

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