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  1. #1
    skydivepaul's Avatar
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    fx-sho engine rebuid

    So following on from my thread

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=282479


    The engine in my 2008 ski was toast. I had a a few options open to me. Buy a new block, crank and pistons @ £4500
    Not really viable as the ski is worth £6K and by the time I had bought gaskets, bolts etc I would be into £5K - not an option

    Break the ski for parts??? didn't want to do that as the ski is in great condition apart from the knackered engine

    Hold out for a second hand motor - fingers crossed

    swap out the engine for another power plant. I considered electric, hybrid, rotary and other types of engine and while I like a challenge and have plenty of tools in my workshop I didn't find a viable alternative that would be worthwhile.

    So hold out for another engine was my plan..........

    Lucky for me a member on here tipped me off that there was an engine on ebay for sale that was an hour away from me.

    OK so here goes, I went and had a look at the engine and all looks good. The owner bought the engine from a crashed ski as he needed a cylinder head for his blown engine.

    Engine was bought and loaded up on the truck.

    OK so the engine I bought is a 2015 SVHO engine and my ski a 2008. There are a few differences in the engine but nothing that shouldn't be able to be overcome.

    The new engine also came with some new parts, oil pan, gaskets and drive shaft.



    OK so to continue stripping the old engine down for parts to transfer as well as checking out the old engine.
    One part on the old engine I was keen to check is the cylinder head, so this was stripped down, valves and valvetrain removed.

    All valvletrain components were checked, the valves in cylinder 2 paid particular inspection as these are most likley to have been damaged. A quick fluid check on cylinder 2 showed that these valves were letting fluid though them so these are most likely bent.

    Next to check the camshafts - All cam bearings checked with DTI whilst running their own housings.
    My cheap chinese DTI shows no variation in the bearing up to 0.01mm


    Cam lift was checked on all lobes and 9.0mm was recorded on each lobe, all consistent.


    OK so happy with the cams and head, I take out 2 inlet and 2 exhaust valves out of the head from the engine I bought and check for run out in the valve stems. All test good.

    Time to lap in the valves with grinding paste. Old school, I have my grinding paste since I was 18 ----- 32 years ago!
    Very time consuming but good to see all valves are now sorted.

    Next on the agenda is to take some parts I need from the old engine.
    Supercharger clutch and gears, dead easy just unbolt these

    Drive coupling........I wonder why I hadn't done this earlier...............ok yea I knew it would be a pig to do!

    First thing is the chrome bolt in front of the coupling
    LEFT HAND THREAD
    Lucky I have an impact gun so this comes off pretty

    Next the drive coupler. Looking on the forum and various videos, apply heat and force!
    ok so pleny of heat and force applied....5 foot bar

    Nothing!

    OK different approach needed.
    lock the engine with an axle stand in the damaged cylinder #2
    Fashion a piece of 3x2 with slots drilled out so it fits between the coupling fins
    Apply heat for 5 minutes
    bash the wood with a 2lb mallet for 5 minutes
    Result the coupler loosens off nicely



    OK so next stage is to order the relevant gaskets and a few parts I need.
    Oil seperator plate needed as the piston went through the original one.
    Oil pan needs repairing, the new oil pan I got with the engine is for the SVHO which only has one oil pick up pipe.
    The SHO pump has a pick up pipe for the scavenge part of the pump and the main oil pump but the hole in the oil pan on the SVHO matches up with the scavenge pump side only.
    OR I could get an SVHO oil pump?

    The earth block on the SHO fits onto the block but the SVHO engine has a different mounting arrangement, I need to look into this further.

    I'll post updates as and when I get back into the garage to work on the engine and hopefully have a successful outcome.
    Any hints, tips appreciated.
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  2. #2
    the earth blocks are set up differly but the plug ins are both the same. was looking into this myself with my 2009 sho and 2016 svho motor

  3. #3
    skydivepaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan.daniel1990@gmail.co View Post
    the earth blocks are set up differly but the plug ins are both the same. was looking into this myself with my 2009 sho and 2016 svho motor
    Thanks for this, did you use an SVHO earth block?

  4. #4
    15 svhos had tc failures u might want to check the tc to make sure itís the upgraded tc

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by skydivepaul View Post
    Thanks for this, did you use an SVHO earth block?

    Yessir

  6. #6
    skydivepaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seabrook View Post
    15 svhos had tc failures u might want to check the tc to make sure it’s the upgraded tc

    Thanks, will be checking this tonight

  7. #7
    skydivepaul's Avatar
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    The timing chain, cam wheels and crank cog are all in good order.
    On my blown engine I know the cam chain was replaced about 40 hours ago and it looks in mint condition.

    I looked into upgrading to the new style cam chain but this looks like you need to replace the chain, cam wheels and crankshaft?

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by skydivepaul View Post
    The timing chain, cam wheels and crank cog are all in good order.
    On my blown engine I know the cam chain was replaced about 40 hours ago and it looks in mint condition.

    I looked into upgrading to the new style cam chain but this looks like you need to replace the chain, cam wheels and crankshaft?
    You can run just the updated chain on the existing sprockets. The new style chain has 5 links (across/wide) and the old has 3.

    As far as the oil pump I would just pick up an SVHO pump and keep the oil pan.

  9. #9
    skydivepaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z'mnypit View Post
    You can run just the updated chain on the existing sprockets. The new style chain has 5 links (across/wide) and the old has 3. As far as the oil pump I would just pick up an SVHO pump and keep the oil pan.
    Thanks for that, might as well put an updated chain on then

  10. #10
    fx160's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skydivepaul View Post
    Thanks for that, might as well put an updated chain on then
    I think you also need to replace the cam gears and cam chain guides as a minimum
    As the newer chain is wider
    There would still be a chance of it moving around on the crank

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