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  1. #21
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris288 View Post
    ... leave it low in the fall and fill up in the spring...

    https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvis...nol-Fuel-Myths
    That West Marine link is intended for boats, which often have an unsealed fuel tank vent system (tank vent is open to the outside air, no pressure controlled check valve).

    That said, the linked article specifically recommends filling the fuel tank prior to extended storage.

    Quote Originally Posted by West Marine: Winter storage of ethanol-blended gas
    Seasonal storage with E10 fuel is another likely time for problems. During storage, fuel will tend to oxidize; it will become sour, and may absorb water from condensation. Water-holding capacity of E10 fuel is reduced with lower temperatures, so phase separation is more likely with winter temperatures. E10 can hold approximately 0.5% water at 60F (.64 ounces in a gallon, or 12 ounces of water in a 20-gallon gas tank), but can only hold about 0.35% water at 20F (.45 ounces in a gallon).


    If possible, store your boat for the winter with a full fuel tank. Add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel at the recommended dosage. Run the engine for 10 minutes to distribute stabilized fuel into the engine and fuel lines. Top off the tank to reduce the amount of exchange with the air that may bring in condensation.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris288 View Post
    5 gallons of fresh stabilized 93 octane in the fall and 10 gallons of fresh 93 in the spring... been doing that for 20 plus years.
    Been draining mine for 20 years (sleds and skis) never and issue, and no condensation. BRP even recommends this. Leaving the tank full will yellow the plastic over time. In the spring you top up with fresh gas. If tank are metal such as aircraft or automobile I do fill those up to stop rust.

  3. #23
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluestram View Post
    Been draining mine for 20 years (sleds and skis) ... and no condensation. BRP even recommends this.

    ... If tank are metal such as aircraft or automobile I do fill those up to stop rust.
    Carburetor machines that do not have an electric fuel pump inside the fuel tank are different. Most 2-strokes have just a simple fuel pickup tube or similar, no rust risk.

    Electric fuel pumps inside the fuel tank often have a lot of metal in the pump construction. Sometimes the metal can corrode. Fuel level inside the tank covering the pump can reduce corrosion risk from air and moisture inside the fuel tank.

    (All?) PWC fuel tanks have check valves to limit air travel to/from the outside atmosphere. Condensation risks depend on the environment the watercraft is stored in. Some places will have modest humidity and/or limited temperature swings. Other places may have huge temp swings during storage and possibly significant humidity. If in-tank condensation does happen, it would be more likely with big temp swings and exterior humidity.

    If the tank can be fully drained and will stay completely dry inside (no moisture), then draining the fuel can be fine.

  4. #24
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    I read the West Marine article (https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvis...nol-Fuel-Myths). Now, having read the article, I'm rethinking WHAT type of fuel to use for winter storage.

    - Originally, my plan was to fill the tank completely with 87-octane, stabilized (Sta-Bil Storage), non-ethanol fuel. If 91/93-octane non-ethanol fuel were sold here, I'd use it. However, it's not sold here, so my only non-ethanol option is 87-octane. Remember... 4TEC 215HP skis will run on 87-octane fuel, but the recommended fuel is 91/93-octane.
    - Now, I'm considering a different approach. Specifically, fill the tank completely with 91/93-octane, stabilized, ethanol-blended fuel.

    WHY am I considering using ethanol-blended fuel for winter storage?

    1. Since the tank will be full, moisture intrusion will be minimized (regardless of the type of fuel).
    2. Moisture (water) that gets into the tank will be absorbed by the ethanol (assuming the fuel is relatively water-free when purchased), i.e., the water will incorporate into the fuel... not be freely pooling in the fuel.
    3. The net effect (when compared to using non-ethanol fuel), will be that the tank will be drier, i.e., the tank will contain less freely-pooling water.

    Your thoughts?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by browan View Post
    ...
    3. The net effect (when compared to using non-ethanol fuel), will be that the tank will be drier, i.e., the tank will contain less freely-pooling water.

    ...
    What you want is zero water pooled in the bottom of the fuel tank and no phase separation of the ethanol from the gasoline. As long as the total amount of moisture accumulated inside the fuel tank during storage stays below the phase seperation threshold then there is no problem.

    The amount of water required to trigger phase separation is fairly low as a percentage of the total fuel quantity in the tank, but typically that threshold is not reached in a well mainatined fuel system.

    Your method sounds just fine.

  6. #26
    My thoughts are your thinking too much... Fill it with 15 gallons of stabalized 93 it will be FINE in the spring.

    I prefer to have fresh fuel in the spring and keep my tank at ~ 5 gallons or less with marine stabil in it. been doing it that way for all our jet skis for 20 plus years...

    our boat has a 120 gallon tank,,, I aint filling that sucker in the fall, whatever is in there gets stabalized and left until spring.


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