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  1. #11
    Sounds like it may be a combination of both electrical and mechanical issues.

    I'll check the grounds within the pump, but everything looked real solid when I pulled it out. Just a slightly dirty fuel filter.
    I'll also look into the fuel supply line. Of course the cam is going to make the idle fluctuate, but I would think the tune would smooth it out a little bit. I'll try to post up an older video on here if I can dig one up. It used to run much smoother and only fluctuate by maybe +/- 100rpms, not +/- 600 like it does now.

  2. #12
    meeper's Avatar
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    rising to 58 then dropping off is correct for a RRFPR, you remove the check valve during installation.

    I say split hose or injector issue. Also make sure your running 58 at idle in water not just on the trailer or out of water


  3. #13
    I should also note - I did have the injectors ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested. Dealer said they weren't too bad to begin with. Waiting to install after I figure out what to do with the fuel pump and rrfpr.

  4. #14
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by meeper View Post
    rising to 58 then dropping off is correct for a RRFPR, you remove the check valve during installation.

    I say split hose or injector issue. Also make sure your running 58 at idle in water not just on the trailer or out of water
    Installation must have changed over the years then as the 04 RRFPR setup brings the fuel pressure up to 58 psi and holds it there with the engine off, even if you remove the key. Does not make sense to have it pressure up then drop off again. I don't know of any fuel injected engine that would drop the fuel pressure down if the engine is off.

  5. #15
    meeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SplishSplash View Post
    Installation must have changed over the years then as the 04 RRFPR setup brings the fuel pressure up to 58 psi and holds it there with the engine off, even if you remove the key. Does not make sense to have it pressure up then drop off again. I don't know of any fuel injected engine that would drop the fuel pressure down if the engine is off.
    No sir, i had a FPR on my 04 as well and did the same thing, once you take out the OEM FPR you also remove the built in check valve that keeps pressure from dropping, it has been this way since the dawn of time on any application. Even the fuel system on my Jeep SRT does the same thing

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  7. #16
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by meeper View Post
    No sir, i had a FPR on my 04 as well and did the same thing, once you take out the OEM FPR you also remove the built in check valve that keeps pressure from dropping, it has been this way since the dawn of time on any application. Even the fuel system on my Jeep SRT does the same thing
    Not mine, mine works the other way with the Riva RRFPR kit, builds pressure and holds it, does not blead down.

  8. #17
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    at idle the motor has vacuum and that lowers the fuel psi compared to when motor is off

  9. #18
    meeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SplishSplash View Post
    Not mine, mine works the other way with the Riva RRFPR kit, builds pressure and holds it, does not blead down.
    something is wrong then, this is the first known to man that bleeds off. check valve is removed so its impossible to hold pressure

  10. #19
    meeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    at idle the motor has vacuum and that lowers the fuel psi compared to when motor is off
    Agreed, only if you have it hooked to the intake manifold.

    Now on my old ski i had it boost referenced only, i had the line hooked up on SC side of throttle body so vacuum did not affect the pressure, I also have it this way on my Turbo jeep. Its much easier to tune that way, there is no point on having them vacuumed referenced

  11. #20
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Can't speak for the doo setup but almost any time you run an aftermaket reg you dump pressure on key off unless you ad an external check valve. Its not a problem because the ratio of fuel going to the rail when you key it on vs the amount the injectors spray out still means you have enough pressure for cranking.

    If you run a standalone system (megasquirt in my case) you can change the fuel pump prime and injector pre spray delay.

    So for example; key on, fuel pump on from 0 to 3 seconds, injector on from 2.75 to 2.8 seconds, fuel pump off. The rail doesn't need to maintain pressure past that because on a low pressure system you don't need to worry about the air as much as with a di motor.

    If the pressure hits the static peak setting without vacuum the pump and reg are probably fine. If it bleeds down afterwards it could just mean there is no check valve or it could signal a problem if you have a check valve installed.

    If you have a check valve and the stock rail setup with the little injector hold on clips, you could pull the rail with the injectors on it and make sure you arent getting a leak through a stuck injector.

    Sean

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