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Thread: Cylinder Crack

  1. #11
    Mvpxspeedy's Avatar
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    That sleeve will probably be thicker than the oem one and will not fit without boring the block.Which will require a machine shop.Hopefully not your case but dont be surprised.Thats why was recommending a used setup with that has oem surviving sleeves to exchange.


  2. #12
    StarMan703's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mvpxspeedy View Post
    That sleeve will probably be thicker than the oem one and will not fit without boring the block.Which will require a machine shop.Hopefully not your case but dont be surprised.Thats why was recommending a used setup with that has oem surviving sleeves to exchange.
    Sleeves came in and they are the same size as the ones I removed. Guess I got lucky, now the tricky part heating the cylinder to install the new sleeves. They recommend heating at 400 degrees for an hour then quickly install sleeve and make SURE it is in a press or held firmly in place so that the sleeve does not rise while cooling.

    If the sleeve were to rise then the machine shop would offer to shave it which would cause the dropped sleeve problem I read about.

    I may practice with old cylinder and sleeve to see how heating the cylinder and freezing the sleeve works. Although i hear to much temp difference can cause issues.

  3. #13
    Mvpxspeedy's Avatar
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    Lol you’re over thinking it. It should fall right in after block is 400f same as it came out if its the same OD dont knock it in it should just FALL in. Baby taps at most. If cools before u line it up just reheat with it sleeve until you line it up. When all sleeves are port lined up then you have a few mins to bolt the head back on while it cools to keep sleeves from rising

  4. #14

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    Wow, I had no idea this is so simple. I thought there was precision machining involved. Maybe next time I rebuild my 1200, (hopefully many yrs down the road), I’ll give it a try.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mockingee View Post
    Wow, I had no idea this is so simple. I thought there was precision machining involved. Maybe next time I rebuild my 1200, (hopefully many yrs down the road), I’ll give it a try.
    It's really not that bad. If you have a press you can apply less heat and press it in. I've seen old sleeves just pop out after a lot of heat is applied, not even having to hit them in.

    The most difficult part is getting them aligned properly so the sleeve matches the cylinder ports.

    I am a huge fan of replacing damaged nikasil with sleeves, it's cheaper. If you have a boring machine, it's way cheaper to bore out a cylinder than it is to have to replated. And you get more power out of it. Most people won't agree with me but I do it more than i should and it's not too bad. Even if you wear out a cylinder you can throw a sleeve in. I only have .5mm left on my 750 Kaw and that will probably get sleeves at some point if I still have it.

  6. #16
    StarMan703's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mvpxspeedy View Post
    Lol you’re over thinking it. It should fall right in after block is 400f same as it came out if its the same OD dont knock it in it should just FALL in. Baby taps at most. If cools before u line it up just reheat with it sleeve until you line it up. When all sleeves are port lined up then you have a few mins to bolt the head back on while it cools to keep sleeves from rising
    Thanks I probably am overthinking it just had to many wished I researched it more moments.

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