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  1. #41
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gourlb1 View Post
    Why ...
    I am unaware of a marine antifreeze product rated for that temperature.


  2. #42
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Because there is no such thing.....

    There are cryogenic solutions designed to work to -85C however. Maybe he needs that

    it probably costs more than the Waverunner.

    50/50 mix will go to -35 F I think. 70/30 to -50 but the heat transfer is not good. That’s the lowest temp you can achieve with a water mix.

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I am unaware of a marine antifreeze product rated for that temperature.
    I have used the West Marine and StarBrite -100F

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post
    Because there is no such thing.....

    There are cryogenic solutions designed to work to -85C however. Maybe he needs that

    it probably costs more than the Waverunner.

    50/50 mix will go to -35 F I think. 70/30 to -50 but the heat transfer is not good. That’s the lowest temp you can achieve with a water mix.
    Not talking about engine antifreeze....the RV winterization stuff, pull it out!

  5. #45
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Propylene glycol



    Star brite® -200°F (-129°C) Non-toxic Antifreeze will provide burst protection to -200°F (-129°C) and freeze protection within a range of -98°F to -103°F (-72°C to -75°C).
    So the -200F is the temperature below which the pipes might burst. Since it is marketed for RV and plumbing protection the somewhat higher slushing and ‘freeze’ temperatures are not mentioned on the front label.

    Propylene glycol when used for automobile antifreeze would reference the maximum cold temp without slushing, which seems to be about -55F. My take is the -100F ’RV’ product provides the same actual freeze protection as the -55F engine antifreeze product, when either is mixed to the optimal ratio.

    Looks like about 50-60% propylene glycol antifreeze to water ratio provides the lowest temperature protection.

    Propylene glycol is generally considered non-toxic, but the MSDS reads cautious.

  6. #46
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    The winter "risk" that antifreeze mitigates, is the expansion of a liquid (freezing) in places that do not allow expansion, that subsequently damage engine components, aka water jackets, recesses.
    However, in the case of an OEM Yamaha, please highlight the engine components retaining liquids.
    Point-in-case . . . "Air" is an antifreeze, so the cracking and splitting of metal components is mitigated by virtue of a gravity draining system.
    "Corrosion" in the coolant jacket surfaces??? Not to the degree that warrant a coating of antifreeze, that will ultimately drain away anyways. Funny thing about aluminium... aluminum oxide "skin" initially forms, and also acts as a protectant.

  7. #47
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Imagine you are a large PWC dealer working in all three brands. And each year, you winterize dozens of machines. Your hire seasonal service people...not technicians. Willing to bet you use one process and the same process for all PWCs regardless of stroke, make or model. Just a thought.

  8. #48
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Anyone ever used this? I picked up a can and planning to try it. Interesting product.

    Basically, you are “fogging” the water cooling system. Once you are done digging the cylinders, you screw the hose in the flush line, push the button and foam is pushed into the cooling system until is comes out the exhaust. They then recommend turning the engine over.....not running the engine.....

    The product contain corrosion inhibitors and antifreeze protection. Plus claims to displace water.

    The “foam” is not permanent of course. M

    i have never seen this stuff before.

    https://www.westmarine.com/buy/winte...-pro--16788788

  9. #49

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    4 forum pages of what I do's and battles over -50 and -100 antifreeze .... is there a Yamaha PWC spec or bulletin for winterization? Nobody has answered that question. If that fails then you have to trust what the dealer does (post page 2). If you want to do more then that because you love your machine then that's O.K as long as you realize your going over and above OEM requirements.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post
    Imagine you are a large PWC dealer working in all three brands. And each year, you winterize dozens of machines. Your hire seasonal service people...not technicians. Willing to bet you use one process and the same process for all PWCs regardless of stroke, make or model. Just a thought.
    ^^^
    THIS !
    So it goes like this . . . a service dept does it this way (one way) for all brands, insures uniform pricing tiers, consistent maint processes, etc... Sure, it is over-kill for the Yamaha's but we already agree, the only thing that over-kill hurts is the wallet (paying for something not really require) - yet if it helps the PWC owner get a better night's sleep - hey maybe money well spent then. I would bet $$ the shops know you all like better night's rest, AND there are likely Sea Doo owners that live across the street.
    Now to follow the physiological perception in the community of owners . . . if the dealer does it, then it must be the "right way". Okay, well it certainly isn't the wrong way - it's just an over-kill way - and if it fosters less-confusion, better night's rest, and offers another chargeable line item - why the heck not.

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