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  1. #21
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    My shit is stored 50 ft under ground where it stays 50F all the time. It’s an old rocket silo. But it does get to -30F here in the winter and I don’t have control as to when they put things under ground. In all likelihood though, the thing will never freeze.

  2. #22

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    Dealer 19 FX SVHO winterize list (over $300) from receipt

    Startron........Startron Gas additive
    CRC-06068....Fogging Oil
    Grease..........Grease LLM
    693-13440-03-00??...Element Assy, Oil C
    4W................10W40 Engine oil
    NGK-LFR7A....92038 spark plug 10/pack
    YACC-YAMSHLD-???....Yamasheild Proctectan

    Ski Tag checkoff list
    - Oil & Filter
    - Drain Fuel/Change fuel filter
    -Drain Block
    - Change drive oil (not checked)
    - Change gear lube (not checked)
    - Fog Engine
    - Disconnect battery (I removed battery put on battery tender)
    - Remove drain Plugs (BTW - plugs weren't removed)

    So no Antifreeze but they do or supposed to do, fogging. Replace plugs
    Not sure what Grease LLM or what the Yamasheild is unless they spray engine compartment before installing the seat. I could do that with every engine i own

  3. #23
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAB View Post
    Dealer 19 FX SVHO winterize list (over $300) from receipt

    ...
    - Drain Fuel/Change fuel filter
    ...
    So you will get it back in the spring with no fuel in the tank?

    Fuel filter is inside the fuel pump, which is inside the fuel tank.

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  5. #24
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Why 10 plugs? The fuel filter comment was funny.

  6. #25
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Ok...just looked on the green hulk store page. Strange...there are two different ngk lfr7a plugs listed. One say “10 pk” and the other states “four are needed”. Pricing doesn’t add up though.


  7. #26

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    I have 3 engines to winterize. This is my 3rd. Just making sure I'm doing it the right way since it was free. The FX service manual says nothing and I believe the owners manual is also silent on winterization.

    K447 thank for comments and will swing by the marina. I can only ask. It's not that I don't believe, its that I got nothing from Yamaha to confirm, and I have your procedures for raising the trailer, and bumping the key, etc, for next year. Even my old Sea Doo had winterization instructions.

    Easier and less maintenance was a core reason why I bought Yamaha. Performance was second because if its sitting on the trailer being fixed like the SeaDoo its got nothing to do with performance for the short time its used during summer weekends.

  8. #27
    Yamaha and SeaDoo, here's my steps:
    1. Add fuel stabilizer and top off gas
    2. Flush with water for a few minutes to bring engine oil temp up
    3. Couple of throttle blips after shutting water off to remove as much water as possible
    4. Change oil and filter
    5. Connect RV antifreeze via sump pump and run about 2 gals
    6. Change plugs and fog cyclinders or fog via fuel rail
    7. Turnover engine a couple of times
    8. Spray engine and pump with anti-corrosion, lube steering nozzle and trim
    9. Pull battery
    10. Leave seat partially open and cover

  9. #28
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    I wonder if this would work.

  10. #29
    Has been since '94....and my "shit" makes it through -40deg temps in Northern MN so works for me

  11. #30
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gourlb1 View Post
    Yamaha and SeaDoo ...
    ...
    5. Connect RV antifreeze via sump pump and run about 2 gals
    ...
    Seadoo vs. Yamaha 4-stroke engines are very different cooling system configurations. Seadoo is closed loop water jacket, Yamaha is open loop.

    Seadoo has garden hose flush fittings (reverse flow?) on the transom, Yamaha uses X connector inline with the feed hose from jet pump inlet screen. Yamaha (stock) flush system depends on pressure and flow to force anti-freeze forward towards the engine.

    Details matter with winterizing methods.

    Why not blip the throttle again after partially flooding the waterbox with anti-freeze? Why leave additional liquid in the waterbox during storage?

    Also, why change spark plugs right after fogging the engine?
    Why not wait to put fresh spark plugs in after first engine run in springtime, after the fogging oil is burned off?

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