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  1. #1
    Hazard Racing's Avatar
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    Polaris TX 1200 Hydro

    This is my buddy Matt's boat.
    This was four year project, with more to go before its ready for paint.

    The base is 1979 HydroStream 15' , with the engine and pump neatly trimmed out of the bottom of a 2001 Virage TX 1200.
    All of the balsa wood was replaced with plascore fiberglass and epoxy.
    The final project will have ported MSX cylinders.
    Currently has non-ported stock 1165cc cylinders and re-cut DI heads,race program CDI,
    44mm round Mikuni's and handbuilt dry pipes with a water injected muffler. ( she's loud)

    Currently looking for hardened drive shaft and hardened pump stub shaft.
    Have already broken one pump stub shaft in the couple hours/45miles of testing on smooth lake.

    It currently tops out at 59mph on GPS with a 17/25 Skat Trak at 6900-7000 rpm.
    The boat needs more nose lift to get more speed, trying to sort that out.

    Would be interested in 17/26 or larger Skat Trak or larger impellers.


    Randy


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  2. #2
    Hazard Racing's Avatar
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  3. #3
    moparguy's Avatar
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    Nice build, be interested in seeing how she handles and top speed. Years ago I had a 15 Hydrostream Viper with a 2.4 Bridgeport, that was a hairy ride.

  4. #4
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Trick setup, what driveshaft were you using when it let loose?

    Sean

  5. #5
    Hazard Racing's Avatar
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    The stock TX 1200 drive shaft.

    That’s why we are looking for info to get ahold of Ted and get some hardened ones made.

    Any leads on hardened shafts?

  6. #6
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Love it. Make sure your alignment is spot on with that setup there is no way it should break drive shafts.


  7. #7
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Do you know what he wound up with as far as his assembled squish band width and clearance?
    Also, what does he figure for optimal RPM for max power output? I would think higher than 6,900.

  8. #8
    Hazard Racing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    Do you know what he wound up with as far as his assembled squish band width and clearance?
    Also, what does he figure for optimal RPM for max power output? I would think higher than 6,900.

    The ported cylinders and cut heads are not done yet, so we can't say on the squish and compression.
    He is told that the pipes should run at 8,000 rpm.

    The stock port timing is probably holding the motor back , and he is currently at 125 for compression.

    The boat acts like nose is glued to the water,and need a lot more lift.

    He found the best speed with 10 degree of wedge and (2) 40lbs. sand bags in the rear corners of the boat ,in an effort to raise the bow.

    We are open to help and suggestions.

    Thank you
    Randy

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hazard Racing View Post
    ...

    The boat acts like nose is glued to the water, and need a lot more lift.

    He found the best speed with 10 degree of wedge and (2) 40lbs. sand bags in the rear corners of the boat ,in an effort to raise the bow.

    ...


    That is quite the down angle on the jet pump body
    I presume this was done because the engine could not be mounted any lower inside the hull?

    I see the two stacked pump wedges. Adding even more wedge angle (or pump nozzle trim up) is going to have the pump thrust down vector fighting against the ride plate lifting force.

    I suspect part of the problem is that the ‘ride plate’ needs some upwards angle towards the rear, but the pump body is in the way.

    You may want to experiment with a ‘short pump’ configuration (take out the extension wear ring section) to allow some adjustment upwards for the ride plate angle.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Do you have better photos of the hull bottom?

    Especially the rear portion.

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