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Thread: Water in Oil

  1. #1

    Water in Oil

    So it all started a couple of weeks ago. I have a 2012 Yamaha FZR with 265 hr. on it. I'm sitting on shore enjoying my favorite beer when I suddenly remember that I failed to put the drain plugs back in. Sure enough upon inspection the hull was about quarter full of water. Bailing with a cup sure takes time, but non-the- less most of the water was removed. The remainder of water was removed by idling the engine and allowing the bilge pump to do its job. Ride home was uneventful except for bogging down a couple of times. Fast forward one week. Going to my favorite beach at WOT, suddenly the oil warning light comes on and ski switches to slow mode. Turn ski off, wait two minutes, turn ski on, and all is back to normal. However when going at WOT, oil warning light comes on again. Got back to shore to check oil, and notice that dip stick showed evidence of water contamination. Hoping that this was a one time occurrence, I changed oil and filter. Taking ski out again, all seems normal. However again at WOT oil warning light comes on again. Turn ski off, wait a minute, turn ski on and ski sees to be normal except at WOT when oil light comes on. Get to shore, check oil, and again there is evidence of water contamination in oil. Need suggestions as to what may be the cause, price to fix, and or is it new ski time.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrunner View Post
    ... I failed to put the drain plugs back in. ...
    Tip: If the hull is taking on very little water on a typical ride, leave the drain plugs installed when the ski is put on the trailer.

    One less thing to potentially forget about at the launch ramp.

  3. #3
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    The way you have described things, I’m leaning towards water in the oil might not have come from the recent drain plug hull-flooding gaff, as the water would have had to get high enough to get into the SC and ingested into the cylinders and past the piston rings. If you think it was indeed that high, then you might just need to change the oil 3 or more times to get the water all out. Otherwise, you might consider another source . . . i.e. the oil cooler, SC cooler, and engine head (crack) can all be suspect.

    Regardless of the true water source mystery, there is another potential issue in-play: the repeated oil alarms. Water contamination can effect pressure, but so can failed bearing surfaces, therefore you’ll want to consider additional engine damage now being possible. The oil alarm means there was insufficient oil pressure, and you stated this was at WOT runs, which means there might not have been enough lubrication during the engine most harsh operating conditions. Lack of pressure means lack of oil supplied, plus the water is degrading the oil-film on all surfaces. Therefore, I would hunt for obvious signs of engine damage, examining the oil filter(s) (tear them apart), and pull the oil pan bottom for evidence of chewed bearing fragments.

    Feasibility to repair, or is it new ski time?? Personal and financial decision, but if you do find engine damage evidence, I’d say new ski time. If you don’t and it’s just a matter of hunting for the water source, I’d say it be a 50/50 decision. Cracked head - maybe up that to 70/30 decision in favor of a new ski. If the water was indeed from that one-time hull flooding AND you get the oil cleared after a few changes AND there’s no damage evidence 80/20 on keeping it.
    My 2 cents

  4. #4

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    It’s either

    1: water in oil from bung issue.....(hope that’s what it is)

    2: failed oil cooler.....(possible)

    3: cracked head........(my $2)
    Last edited by HDAV; 09-24-2019 at 04:25 AM.

  5. #5
    As we speak ski is in shop and will know by end of week....

  6. #6
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Tip: If the hull is taking on very little water on a typical ride, leave the drain plugs installed when the ski is put on the trailer.

    One less thing to potentially forget about at the launch ramp.
    That’s actually smart but also illegal in many places.

  7. #7
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimeBandit View Post
    The way you have described things, I’m leaning towards water in the oil might not have come from the recent drain plug hull-flooding gaff, as the water would have had to get high enough to get into the SC and ingested into the cylinders and past the piston rings. If you think it was indeed that high, then you might just need to change the oil 3 or more times to get the water all out. Otherwise, you might consider another source . . . i.e. the oil cooler, SC cooler, and engine head (crack) can all be suspect.

    Regardless of the true water source mystery, there is another potential issue in-play: the repeated oil alarms. Water contamination can effect pressure, but so can failed bearing surfaces, therefore you’ll want to consider additional engine damage now being possible. The oil alarm means there was insufficient oil pressure, and you stated this was at WOT runs, which means there might not have been enough lubrication during the engine most harsh operating conditions. Lack of pressure means lack of oil supplied, plus the water is degrading the oil-film on all surfaces. Therefore, I would hunt for obvious signs of engine damage, examining the oil filter(s) (tear them apart), and pull the oil pan bottom for evidence of chewed bearing fragments.

    Feasibility to repair, or is it new ski time?? Personal and financial decision, but if you do find engine damage evidence, I’d say new ski time. If you don’t and it’s just a matter of hunting for the water source, I’d say it be a 50/50 decision. Cracked head - maybe up that to 70/30 decision in favor of a new ski. If the water was indeed from that one-time hull flooding AND you get the oil cleared after a few changes AND there’s no damage evidence 80/20 on keeping it.
    My 2 cents

    Lots of good advice other than I didn’t know these things had oil pans you can pull.

    I think if it were me, before going to the shop, I would do a quick compression leak down test. At least that would rule out a cooling leak. If it tested fine, the. I would have tried changing the oil a bunch of times. Remember....you can’t get all the oil out and the water will want to go the bottom because it’s heavier.

    Anyway...now that it’s in the shop, good luck!

  8. #8
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post
    Lots of good advice other than I didn’t know these things had oil pans you can pull.
    Thanks !
    Correct ... pulling the motor 1st, can none-other than be implied of course

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    Quote Originally Posted by WaterDR View Post
    That’s actually smart but also illegal in many places.
    Are you saying that in some locations it is illegal to not drain your bilge?

  10. #10
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DealsGapCobra View Post
    Are you saying that in some locations it is illegal to not drain your bilge?
    No it’s illegal in every state I have ever lived in to transport a boat with the bilge plug not removed. It’s pretty common sense actually. People who don’t do this have contributed to all the invasive species issues. This is really nothing new. Heck...I think it’s been law in most places for many years.

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