07 RXT 215 No Power - How to Test DESS Post?

[SMLaker]

Went to ride the ski after two weeks off. Ran fine two weeks ago. Put the key on DESS post and nothing. No dash lights, nada. Battery was new in May of this year and measures 13V across terminals. All fuses visually inspected and look okay. Will ohm out to verify. Will also try learner key when I find it. Checked and re-tightened battery cables. Starter solenoid replaced is May also.

Is there a way to test the DESS post to isolate that as the point of failure? I've read you can use a magnet just to see if the switch is working. Will also check MPEM/ECU cables and re-seat them. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

[nmpeter]

go ahead and poke the fuses with a continuity meter. quite often a fuse with a vibration related failure will not be visible to the naked eye in cases like this. I would not disturb the ecu or mpem cables at this time

check for power at the solenoid main terminal. of course I never trust a new battery

other times it's hidden corrosion on the main cable or engine grounds

[SMLaker]

All fuses buzzed out good. Learning key provided same result...no workie-workie. Engine ground good. Jumped across starter solenoid and engine cranked strong so battery is good. Still no activity on the dash. No fuel pump activity that I usually hear when key applied. Start/Stop button no help. Is there any way to test the DESS switch? I tried using a magnet but it didn't help. I've disassembled the dash and have access to the DESS wires. Can I jump two of them to bypass the switch? If so, which two? Where is the best place to buy a replacement?

Thanks!

[SMLaker]

Found this Youtube video:

Will check this out asap. Disregard his reference to AC...lol

[nmpeter]

the black/yellow and black/purple typically run to the magnetic switch

and of course the colors are subject to change depending on the year of the switch

I'd suggest checking the continuity to the center nipple and ring to determine which pair read the key, then use the other pair run to the switch

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2892876

[SMLaker]

Tested this, no luck. Got good power on both sides of both fuses. Guessing the next step is to replace the DESS switch.

[SMLaker]

Thanks Pete, good idea.

[SMLaker]

So, I tested the DESS post and it seems to be working. It has 4-wires. BK-YL, BK, WH-GY, BK-PU. The DESS ring is BK, the nipple is WH-GY. With the key off BK-YL and BK are open. With the DESS key on, BK-YL and BK have continuity. Not sure where to go from here but am now thinking the Main Relay or ECU. Does the main relay power the ECU or vice-verse?

Thanks!

[Sea Dood]

So, I tested the DESS post and it seems to be working. It has 4-wires. BK-YL, BK, WH-GY, BK-PU. The DESS ring is BK, the nipple is WH-GY. With the key off BK-YL and BK are open. With the DESS key on, BK-YL and BK have continuity. Not sure where to go from here but am now thinking the Main Relay or ECU. Does the main relay power the ECU or vice-verse?

Thanks!

The main relay is powered by the Black/Purple wire, the DESS post shorts it to ground when key is on. Did you test that one?

[SMLaker]

The main relay is powered by the Black/Purple wire, the DESS post shorts it to ground when key is on. Did you test that one?

Thanks Dood, I'll test that today. I have the wiring diagram but not a schematic so the theory of operations is elusive. So, if I understand your comment, with the key applied and a reed switch engaged, the BK/PU wire provides a path to ground for the main relay energizing circuit? Probably 12V and very low amperage. Let's say that tests good. Where would you look next?

Also, I understand the dess post has 2 reed switches. Are you familiar with how the second switch acts?

Thanks!

frustrated by electronic gremlins!