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  1. #11
    ncdoo's Avatar
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    After all that, bite the bullet and replace the crank. Might want to throw in new set of rings while you have it apart if the pistons look good and the clearance is with specs.

  2. #12

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    Yep, good advice...thanks all. $700 Cdn here in Ontario for the rebuilt crank, engine gasket set and rings. Parts only....plus I will need some assembly tools like the index wheel, pump alignment tool etc...Wintertime/Springtime project for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by ncdoo View Post
    After all that, bite the bullet and replace the crank. Might want to throw in new set of rings while you have it apart if the pistons look good and the clearance is with specs.

  3. #13
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    the snake oil may buy you a few more good outings, but the crank does have to be replaced, eventually. Put a flywheel puller on your list if your planning on swapping out the crank. For the not so nimble there is going to be some measure of pain getting this done. I had to sop working on seadoo boats a couple of years ago because my nimble is all but gone at 61

    an sbt crank will run you $300 USD + freight and duty. Once you get the engine apart you can do a close up exam of the cylinder condition. Without an code scanner you cant tell how many hours are on the engine, but if you plan on keeping the boat for a while, then a hone out and new rings are a great idea since it will all be on the bench anyway

  4. #14
    ncdoo's Avatar
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    I would stay away from the SBT cranks. I would go with SES or Crank Works.

  5. #15
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    SES offers the same price and a similar lifetime warranty on a crank exchange as SBT so I see no reason I can see not to give them a try


  6. #16
    ncdoo's Avatar
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    Personal experience.

  7. #17

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    I was thinking about installing a 12 volt solenoid valve on that oil feed line for the RV seals...Use a normally closed valve, wire it to power on when the ignition comes on. I use this boat maybe an hour to 1.5 hrs per season as I'm still having too much fun with my Polaris PWC's. Spending $700-$1000 for the hour of use seems kinda obscene especially if I could manage the Oil flow in this manner there would be no chance of filling the crankcase. This would be assuming the oil leak at the seals does not become super bad. I would do this after the Snake Oil trick. Any thoughts??

    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    if you can manage the logistics, clamping off the oil feed line to the RV when not in use can reduce the issue to just a pain. there are some messages in the forum regarding the use of transmission seal softener to also extend service life.

    while the right way is replacing the crank, it's a pricey proposition on an older engine

    don't use brand x injector oil after replacement, this is why ( from what I've seen) the seals fail prematurely..that and using starter fluid and hydro locking the eengine

  8. #18
    Tool Bag water worx's Avatar
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    There is no "flow" it fill's the cavity & stays there till drained or in your case leaked out.

  9. #19

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    Yes when I referred to "flow" I was talking about the slow continual refilling of that cavity due to the oil seals leaking after a week of "sitting" and non-use. I burn that oil off in the crankcase every time I start the boat...after 6-8 days it becomes a 10 minute chore to keep the motor running and burn off all that oil until it runs nice and smooth.

    I get that I should replace the crank but I really only use the boat for 3 weeks per year on Vacay and sometimes only 6-8 times during that timeframe.

    Quote Originally Posted by water worx View Post
    There is no "flow" it fill's the cavity & stays there till drained or in your case leaked out.

  10. #20

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    Nmpeter do you recall what size the oil line is it feeds the RV? I'm planning on adding the snake oil and a couple loops of line ... and the 12 volt solenoid


    QUOTE=nmpeter;3044330]read some of the "full of oil" threads, the loop method and management is described numerous times. you can use a good amount of seal softener by looping the rv lines, but you MUST keep an eye on the oil level. let it run out and your engine will fail

    there is a smaller oil line from the oil tank that feeds the injection pump. injection takes place at the rotary valve[/QUOTE]

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