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  1. #81
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    15F bottom hull with RXP top

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  3. #82
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rezalb View Post

    15F bottom hull with RXP top
    I am sort of thining about doing the opposite for the gtx hull I have since I have a spare stxr top deck.

    My "fleet" would be:

    Vortech supercharged ultra lx
    Seadoo swapped stx
    Deck swapped gtx
    750 swapped js550
    Stock rebuilt stxr

    I may just leave the gtx alone and sell the stxr and gtx. That would be more practical and put some moolah back in my pocket.


    Hopefully I will get back to these builds before too much longer.

    I have been swamped with my other projects and trying to find room in my garage for all my other garbage.

    2 car garage currently has:

    2 12f motors
    1 15f vortech motor
    1 big pin 750 motor
    1 stx 1100 motor
    1 stxr 1200 motor
    1 rxtx 255 motor
    1 gtx 215 motor
    1 klf 300 motor

    I also have a tundra a340 transmission and transfer case and all the bs associated with all that nonsense. None of which are installed, all of which take up space.

    This is what happens when you take on more than you can finish for 10 years.

    Pictures of my workspace for reference of how packed it is. Fortunately, everything except the shelves is on wheels so I can just push it all out into he driveway and work on the weekends. Not pictured are the 2 trailers on my side yard with my empty hulls.

    Typing that out was depressing.

    Sean

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  4. #83
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Thru Hull Drilling (Poke Holes in All My Plans Why Don't You?)

    Spent some time testing my drill adapter on a scrap hull. It works reasonably well with some caveats;

    The linear bearing I picked does not like being used as a rotational linear bearing. This chewed up the shaft which I am not thrilled about. That shaft wasn't cheap and its probably ruined now.

    The hole saw worked great except for not being able to clear the inside of the cut section. This really could have used a forstner bit but I didn't have one with the proper shank hex size. To get around the issue, I had to drill until the hole saw bottomed out, break out the cut section with brute force or power tools, then repeat the process. It basically amounted to me peck-drilling. Fortunately, you only have to do this 3 or so times.


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    Stock Thru-Hull with mount and bearings removed. The insert is plastic with fiberglass over it.

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    Mounting Flange and stock fitting

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    Tool mounted up and hole saw installed. Realistically, you need a forstner style bit that can eat the middle out. Traditional hole saws required me to cut the center out with a dremel tool or sawzall before using the hole saw to clean up the inside diameter of the new cut.

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    Stock Plastic Insert Bonded to the Tunnel

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    First Section Removed

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    Drill Guide Installed and Retracted. Having the handle on the drill really helped.

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    Almost...

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    Almost...

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    Almost...

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    There we are.

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    The Gaping Maw Beckons

    Sean
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 06-08-2020 at 10:55 PM.

  5. #84
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Motor Test Fit (Dropping in a Doo)

    Decided to test fit the motor in my scrap hull once I had tested the thru hull drilling tool. The only cutting required was to remove the "bridge" between the front section of the engine compartment and the rear section where the under seat storage tray drops in. With those removed, the motor drops in with some wiggling and swear words as long as the left rear, and front motor mounts are removed, and the oil cooler lines are un-clipped.

    Not in the final position, the exhaust manifold contacts the hull, part of this will be addressed by using the proper height motor mount adapters, my 2x4s are too tall for where I want the motor to sit. Its final position will shift down and backwards slightly which should help. The other modification I am doing is to chop the freeze plugs off the outer side of the exhaust where the hull contacts and have the holes welded shut.

    The only fiberglass work that will be required is on the hull mounts, they are contacting the motor somewhere but I was not able to tell with the rest of the hull in the way. I sacrificed the scrap red hull to make a driveline mockup to get the shoe, motor mounts, and thru hull made without fighting like a contortionist. I will post a picture of that later.


    Hull contacts the exhaust



    Charger Clearance


    Water Pump Clearance


    Crusty...

    Sean
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 06-08-2020 at 10:53 PM.

  6. #85
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Pump Adapter Test Fit (Pro-Pull-Sean)

    Before getting a big chunk of aluminum machined only to curse the man who measured it when it didn't fit. I did as I often do and used the wonders of printing 1:1 scale, sticking it onto a cheap material, and butchering said cheap material all in the name of checking fit. In this case, I used plywood to make a temporary adapter plate to make sure all this work wasn't for nothing.

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    Printed 1:1 and glued down with spray adhesive onto 3/4" plywood

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    Cut and fitted to pump to check bolt pattern

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    Fitted to shoe to check other bolt pattern

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    Dry fit to make sure it looks okay when all 3 are assembled

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    Gotta add stock for the water lines

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    Installed on hull. I had to cut a chunk off the right side so it would clear the steering cables.

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    Pump in and set to "drive"

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    Reverse

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    The Love Below

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    Speakerbox

    Rideplate fit issues
    Before I got too excited, I also needed to test fit the rest of the rear components. Most important was to see if the R&D (rip) Plate would bolt up with the much larger doo pump. It didn't. It was also not as bad as I had feared it would be. The only area that contacted was the trim ring of the steering nozzle which I think can be made to fit with some slight cutting on the upper surface of rear of the plate.

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    So Close

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    Jodie Foster would not be happy with this Contact

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    Looks to be about 3/8" from being able to bolt up

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    Disregard the holes and rtv, that will not get fixed but it will get covered up with my trim tabs and ignored.

    Sean
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 06-08-2020 at 10:53 PM.

  7. #86
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Motor Mount Base and Adapter Fitting (Why in the hell is the seadoo front mount not centered?)

    I am plugging away on the conversion parts. The pump adapter seems like it will work well so I decided to move forward on getting the motor close to where it needs to be.

    I am reasonably happy with how the fitup went. I had hoped not to have to cut the hull but the oil cooler and crank case fouls on the right hand inner stringer. I adjusted the mounts as needed for the rough fit and broke out the alignment tool to do a sanity check. The motor sits slightly high (~0.1") which is expected, my cad model pegged the motor mount height at 1.39" at the location I have the motor mounted at. My temporary mounts are double-stacked 3/4" plywood so they should be taller than designed, no surprises there.

    My job for the rest of the week is to get the motor mount and motor alignment as close as possible to where it needs to be before I get anything cut. I plan to install the pump and motor in the design position and make sure the driveline length is where it should be before moving on and getting the parts cut out of aluminum.

    Is there a spec for the float in the motor to driveshaft to pump fit? I have 2 options for driveshaft length, a 2008 rxt-x and gtx-sc to chose from. The pump will be a 159 rxt-x pump assembly.

    Once all that is done, I will make templates for the cuts and drawings for the motor mounts and get that stuff made in aluminum.


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    STX Center Cut

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    Motor Mount Flanges added to the STX Center Cut

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    Motor dropped onto new mount flanges with stock mounts

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    Front Mount Interference

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    Front Motor to Hull Interference

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    Oil Pan Clearance

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    4Tec does not use a centered front mount... not a huge deal but I didn't realize that until I did this mock up.

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    Rear Motor Clearance

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    First Hull Cut for oil cooler. I cut this larger than needed but it did require a slight chop.

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    My temporary rear motor mount adapter flanges needed to be clearanced for the crankcase.

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    Inner Stringer Hull Cut

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    Front Mount Offset

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    Front Mount Clearance

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    Oil Cooler Clearance

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    Driveline Alignment Check

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    Alignment Tool sans-motor

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    Detailed Hull Cut. This was only required on one side. I will end up glassing that over on the actual ski.


    Sean
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 06-11-2020 at 10:29 AM.

  8. #87
    100% certain there is a spec for that driveshaft..... but I cant remember what it is off the top. I know crazy a$$ reid had it burried in that monster thread he had a while back

  9. #88
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwhc View Post
    100% certain there is a spec for that driveshaft..... but I cant remember what it is off the top. I know crazy a$$ reid had it burried in that monster thread he had a while back

    Not my first choice of thread but I will see what I can find. I looked through the manual and didn't find anything.

    Edit: Steve said 1/8" in his MSX-DOO build

    Edit 2: Found this thread that says 1/4" and 3/8" and also 5mm...

    Sean
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 06-11-2020 at 07:40 PM.


  10. #89
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Checking for Driveshaft Float (Short Shaft Syndrome)

    I was pretty excited to get started on the ski today since I will be getting some time off work for the 4th. I quickly found out that there is a problem with the motor position and driveshaft length. Currently there is a 08 RXT Shaft in the hull but that is ~6" too short where the motor is now. I am not dead set on the current position and it would actually benefit me as far as motor to hull clearance if I were to shift it rearwards slightly. I don't want to pull it back that far though because I am worried it will mess up the balance point on the hull if I do.

    So, that leads me to ask, is there a list of 4-Tec driveshaft lengths somewhere? Simple solution would be to just purchase a different length shaft and call it a day. I have a little length to play with as far as the motor position and slightly less room when it comes to pump position. I can probably cheat the pump up another inch but that would be pushing it. I am actually really happy with where the nozzle and reverse bucket sit in relation to the back of the ski so I don't want to shorten it much.

    Sean


    Looks good from afar


    Short Shaft Syndrome


    Current Pump Stick-out


    Pump Adapter length. The gap between the "racing" plywood and the pump shoe is the only area I can alter.
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 07-02-2020 at 06:08 PM.

  11. #90
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Based on some information in this thread it looks like I was using the RXT/GTX shaft I had and not the RXT-X shaft, since the X shaft is 2.2"ish longer I should be able to use that and shift the motor back by 1.6125" and call it a day. I will get started making the new motor mounts tomorrow and mock everything up.

    Also, can someone confirm the front mount offset from centerline? I just want to check my spacing.

    Sean
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 07-02-2020 at 06:47 PM.

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