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  1. #71
    I might be starting a similar project, i have an ex race 15f but also have an Ultra 260 with a bad engine, for the engine side drive coupler i was going to remove the splined pto off the crank and get a shaft made with the crank thread one end and the coupler thread on the other end with machined seal surface for either the stock bearing bellow or make another type of rear seal.
    only issue i see we may have is using the seadoo supercharger is clearing the kawi coupler.
    My other problem is I have two well built seadoo engines one turbo one big charger, id rather go the supercharger but coupler clearance might decide


  2. #72
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by winterstick View Post
    I might be starting a similar project, i have an ex race 15f but also have an Ultra 260 with a bad engine, for the engine side drive coupler i was going to remove the splined pto off the crank and get a shaft made with the crank thread one end and the coupler thread on the other end with machined seal surface for either the stock bearing bellow or make another type of rear seal.
    only issue i see we may have is using the seadoo supercharger is clearing the kawi coupler.
    My other problem is I have two well built seadoo engines one turbo one big charger, id rather go the supercharger but coupler clearance might decide
    I gave a lot of thought to going that route for a number of reasons but ultimately for me the simpler way was to just use the doo setup as is. I am not thrilled about having the carbon seal setup but would rather do that than run the risk of dumping all the oil out of the motor if I mess up the engine oil bellows/seals.

    I would love to see your setup once you get going on it though, I am quite sure this will not end up being the final setup I run. It is always good to compare notes.

    Sean

  3. #73
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    I may have figured out a way to make control cable thru hull fittings for relatively little money.

    Start with a -10an bulkhead fitting and hard line nut.

    Drill the an fitting through with a 9/16 drill bit and deburr the ends.

    Using a 1" hole saw, drill a piece of 3/16" aluminum 3/4 of the way through using the standard pilot bit.

    Before you cut all the way through, swap the bit to a 3/8" bit and enlarge the center hole to 3/8". Swap the hole saw back in and cut the remainder of the way through.

    Use a 3/8" bolt and nut in a drill to turn the outside of the new slug you have made so it fits in the inside of the hard line adapter nut.

    Once it fits, cut a 3/8" slot into the center of the aluminum adapter and file to fit the groove on the steering cable.

    Assemble the components and check for fit. When installing on the ski, place a rubber washer between the hard line nut and the aluminum adapter to seal the fitting.

    Ill make a few drawings and upload them to make this more clear.

    Sean

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    Last edited by K447; 11-03-2019 at 10:09 PM.

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  5. #74
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Dimensions are based on aeromotive fittings and 2008 rxt-x steering cable. Kawasaki cables are a little smaller in diameter but only require changing the cable adapter part. I also need to verify that the cable stickout is acceptable.

    Sean
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 11-05-2019 at 12:22 PM.

  6. #75
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    You might want a flat rubber washer (or o-ring in a shallow groove) where the fitting meets (and hopefully seals to) the bulkhead.

    What prevents a (small) spiral leak where the rear nut threads onto the fitting?

  7. #76
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    You might want a flat rubber washer (or o-ring in a shallow groove) where the fitting meets (and hopefully seals to) the bulkhead.

    What prevents a (small) spiral leak where the rear nut threads onto the fitting?
    You are correct, the fitting can either be silicone'd to the bulkhead (as stock does) or you can use the bulkhead washer as the fitting does in other applications.

    One other think I am considering is using a pair of half washers to replace the slotted cable adapter above. I like the slotted adapter because it is only one piece rather than two, but I don't like that it leaves an open spot.

    Sean

  8. #77
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Made a fixture plate to bore the kawasaki driveshaft thru hull out to fit the doo driveshaft and carbon seal carrier.

    Swag offroad tube notcher shaft(1" Version)
    3/8 Milwaukee hole saw arbor
    swk16guu Flanged Linear Ball Bearing (1" Shaft)
    3/8" thick aluminum plate
    qty 4 5mm socket head cap screws

    It bolts into the kawasaki driveshaft holder.

    Ill test it out with a small hole saw or forstner bit before punching it out to 2.5" diameter for the insert.

    Sean
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 11-19-2019 at 07:15 PM.

  9. #78
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Drill baby drill.

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