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  1. #21
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    That is really interesting, I had not seen that setup. Thanks for sharing it. I have some more thinking to do now if the system works.

    Sean


    +1
    The EasyRider stuff is expensive and it may not work for your project.

  2. #22
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    No kidding about the price, looks to be well made stuff though.

    Sean


  3. #23
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    No kidding about the price, looks to be well made stuff though.

    Sean



    Yes, both, and are available in the performance store.

  4. #24
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    I spent some time thinking over this last night once I got the factory doo bellows assembly in the mail and I think I am over complicating the problem.

    The reason the stock doo driveshaft won't work the way I want it to is because the end of the driveshaft that enters the pto sleeve uses tapered/belled splines and is not retained other than rotationally to the pto sleeve via the splines. This allows the crank coupler to "windmill" if its unsupported.

    The kawasaki coupler with the rubber insert would help stiffen it up but I don't have enough confidence in the rubber coupler to keep the shaft from windmilling and breaking shit.

    For me to use the kawasaki thru hull and drive shaft (which is critical for me) I would need to marry the doo shaft to the kawasaki coupler while still enabling the shafts to be separated from each other.

    I looked into using a threaded sleeve to tie the two shafts together but determined that to separate the shafts and allow the engine to be removed I would have to push the engine further forward than I would like. The shaft would also have to be torqued pretty tight to give the threads enough preload which would make it harder to separate once the threads get corroded.

    The other option I came up with, which I feel to be the best one now is to use a drive flange which threads onto the stock kawasaki driveshaft with it's companion threaded onto a modified doo shaft. These flanges would then bolt together and use an indexing ring to center them on their axis.

    This minimizes the separation distance required to disengage the driveshaft so the motor can be pulled without lots of hassle. I think I can get this distance down to less than a half inch.

    Looking at something like this as an option.

    https://fortwayneclutch.com/product/...-sku-2-1-1313/

    It is pretty common in boats so I know it works but the main concern I have comes down to balancing. In most boats they turn 4000 rpms max whereas here it would be 8500+. I think its just a matter of marking the installed position and getting the assembled shaft balanced before installing it.

    Anyone have thoughts on it? This will allow the shafts to work as stock on both ends for sealing purposes which makes things easier. Also it means no custom turned parts or crazy permanent modifications. Other than weight I think the linked part would work once threaded to m24*1.5 on both sides. That just leaves me to cut the stock doo shaft to length and thread it to m24*1.5.

    I need to do some hand calcs and figure out if 4X 3/8" bolts in that pattern are comparable in strength to the stock shafts but otherwise it looks like it will be a good way to go.

    What do y'all think?

    Sean

  5. #25
    Why dont you let the seadoo driveshaft extend through the kawasaki coupler. Like bore it through and turn it down so its like a the pilot bearing part of a manual tran sinput shaft. this goes through the rubber coupler (drill through it) and into a bronze bushing in the other coupler half?

    Kinda like a BMW driveshaft with that goofy rubber joint on the end.

  6. #26
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raven007 View Post
    Why dont you let the seadoo driveshaft extend through the kawasaki coupler. Like bore it through and turn it down so its like a the pilot bearing part of a manual tran sinput shaft. this goes through the rubber coupler (drill through it) and into a bronze bushing in the other coupler half?

    Kinda like a BMW driveshaft with that goofy rubber joint on the end.
    That is a neat idea, I need to get a kawasaki driveshaft in hand an take a look at it to make sure it has enough meat on it to work. The kawasaki "fingers" are 3/4" ish long but there is enough wiggle room to still allow the motor to move forward and separate.

    Thanks for participating y'all. Its been a good exercise.

    Sean

  7. #27
    Kosh's Avatar
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    You could just use all OEM seadoo and all you would need to do would be make an adaptor at your through hole for the bellows, you would need to run a doo pump or have your impeller modded to suit the doo drive shaft spline.
    Looked after the carbon seal set up is reliable and you know it wil work as intended. All parts would available of the shelf for future maintenance.

    I do like yamaha and kawaski shaft sealing systems.


  8. #28
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kosh View Post
    You could just use all OEM seadoo and all you would need to do would be make an adaptor at your through hole for the bellows, you would need to run a doo pump or have your impeller modded to suit the doo drive shaft spline.
    Looked after the carbon seal set up is reliable and you know it wil work as intended. All parts would available of the shelf for future maintenance.

    I do like yamaha and kawaski shaft sealing systems.
    I plan to run a kawasaki pump setup from an ultra (155 or 160mm). To use the doo driveshaft would require modding the pump or driveline which I am trying to avoid.

    As far as the shaft mods are concerned, its easier for me to add threads than splines because we have those tools at my job.

    I am partial to keeping the hull mostly stock where possible so cutting out the kawasaki thru hull is something I want to avoid. The stock rxtx driveshaft would have to be turned down substantially to work with the kawasaki carrier.

    I will be using one of rhass's urethane thru hull carriers along with their motor mounts when the time comes.

    Either the bolted flange or the pinned coupler setup should work with the oem seadoo bellows setup and the kawasaki thru hull bearing unless I am missing something obvious.

    I like the pinned coupler idea because the rubber would offer a little cushion for the crank but I am concerned the center support nub that indexes the shafts together could fatigue over time and cause crazy vibrations if it breaks or loosens up.

    Sean
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 09-24-2019 at 03:33 PM.

  9. #29
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Just make a new through hull bearing mount that is larger to accept the larger shaft combo. That is what I did on my MSXDOO after repeatedly breaking the Polaris shafts.

  10. #30
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Just make a new through hull bearing mount that is larger to accept the larger shaft combo. That is what I did on my MSXDOO after repeatedly breaking the Polaris shafts.
    The doo shaft won't fit through the thru hull on the hull side. The bearing is only part of the issue.

    I would have to bore the hole in the hull out and run a larger sleeve. The kawasaki shaft holds up to 300+ hp already anyways so I am less concerned about breaking the shaft (which could bite me later but who knows).

    SeanClick image for larger version. 

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