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  1. #11
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    Interesting, thanks so much for posting.

    Given that the crank does feed oil to the pto I am not sure I want to block it off completely but I also don't want to run it unrestricted in case it drops the pressure of the rest of the system.

    I need to do some thinking on how to get close to the same restriction.

    I am probably over analyzing it but if I am going to make the part I want it to be right the first time.

    Sean



    I suggest contacting the expert GPR conversion builders as they could provide useful info on mounts, hull cuts, driveline, pumps, and other things. In my opinion, leave the oil cooler as is, leave the PTO coupler and bearing/seal as is, and possibly use other seadoo parts.

  2. #12
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    I suggest contacting the expert GPR conversion builders as they could provide useful info on mounts, hull cuts, driveline, pumps, and other things. In my opinion, leave the oil cooler as is, leave the PTO coupler and bearing/seal as is, and possibly use other seadoo parts.
    I am not sure yet if I will even need to move the cooler but hopefully I can avoid cutting the hull or moving it.

    Regarding the coupler and shaft, another member mentioned that the yamaha vx110 shaft fits the kawasaki pump splines so that may be an option but I have not confirmed that yet. I did pickup a yamaha midshaft and coupler assembly but I would rather use the kawasaki parts for ease of alignment and the fact I have all them already.

    To my mind (biased towards the kawasaki setup since that is what I am familiar with) the kawasaki coupler makes the most sense from a reliability and ease of setup perspective. I am happy to consider other options though. By no means am I an expert on the 4-tec which is why I am asking for help. I appreciate it greatly everyone.

    Sean

  3. #13
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    there are a couple of seadoo 4tec models where I believe the driveshaft actually threads into the PTO, I believe it was the 10 or 11 models years. Have never had to deal with one, but I've read about them. I'm sure you'll know about those shortly
    Do you know offhand which models they are?

    Kawasaki uses a stub shaft on the stator side that goes from the crank to the pto coupler so its not groundbreaking.

    Sean

  4. #14
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    I am not sure yet if I will even need to move the cooler but hopefully I can avoid cutting the hull or moving it.

    Regarding the coupler and shaft, another member mentioned that the yamaha vx110 shaft fits the kawasaki pump splines so that may be an option but I have not confirmed that yet. I did pickup a yamaha midshaft and coupler assembly but I would rather use the kawasaki parts for ease of alignment and the fact I have all them already.

    To my mind (biased towards the kawasaki setup since that is what I am familiar with) the kawasaki coupler makes the most sense from a reliability and ease of setup perspective. I am happy to consider other options though. By no means am I an expert on the 4-tec which is why I am asking for help. I appreciate it greatly everyone.

    Sean



    Easyrider has a stub shaft....

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  6. #15
    The splines fit the early VX110 pump, the one that is built like a kawasaki and seadoo without the driveshaft attached. Source: Me! I used the spline tool to swap an impeller and it fit nice and snug.

    I would probably make a stub shaft (cut down a driveshaft?) to go in the stupid seadoo engine spline with a kawasaki coupler threaded on, then use the kawasaki thru hull and driveshaft. I think this is the road you are headed down?

    I still plan to try the vx110 pump on a 15f because vx110 pumps are way cheaper than 155mm kawasaki pumps. I think there is enough room for the transom plate to fit the kawasaki hull. But I haven't investigated what that does with regard to rideplates and intake grates. Both would need work.

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  8. #16
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    Easyrider has a stub shaft....
    That threads into the yamaha midshaft coupler though right?

    Without running an additional support on the end, I would be worried about the excess mass of the coupler on the end with the backlash/tolerance in the splines would allow the shaft to windmill. Since the shaft isnt fully retained in the splines with a pin or clip I would also be worried about the shaft pushing out.

    Sean

  9. #17
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raven007 View Post
    The splines fit the early VX110 pump, the one that is built like a kawasaki and seadoo without the driveshaft attached. Source: Me! I used the spline tool to swap an impeller and it fit nice and snug.

    I would probably make a stub shaft (cut down a driveshaft?) to go in the stupid seadoo engine spline with a kawasaki coupler threaded on, then use the kawasaki thru hull and driveshaft. I think this is the road you are headed down?

    I still plan to try the vx110 pump on a 15f because vx110 pumps are way cheaper than 155mm kawasaki pumps. I think there is enough room for the transom plate to fit the kawasaki hull. But I haven't investigated what that does with regard to rideplates and intake grates. Both would need work.
    Other than the mounts being different and the shoe being small on the 15f the pump should fit in the area without too much fitting.

    I have considered using the yamaha setup as well because the drop nozzle is smaller than the doo pump and doesnt require welding on an adapter like the 250 pump nozzle does.

    The 300 nozzle has trim but the 160mm pump takes more work to fit than the 155mm 250 pump does.

    Sean

  10. #18
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    That threads into the yamaha midshaft coupler though right?

    Without running an additional support on the end, I would be worried about the excess mass of the coupler on the end with the backlash/tolerance in the splines would allow the shaft to windmill. Since the shaft isnt fully retained in the splines with a pin or clip I would also be worried about the shaft pushing out.

    Sean


    IDK if the subshaft would thread into the Yamaha coupler. The threaded end measures approximately 33 mm in lenght, 20 mm diameter, pitch 1.50.
    I'm currently using the Easyrider 2 piece driveshaft setup in my ski now. The thur hull bearing is the support. The key to its successful use is proper alignment. Don't know if any of this will work for your application I'm simply showing you some options that are available.

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  12. #19
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    IDK if the subshaft would thread into the Yamaha coupler. The threaded end measures approximately 33 mm in lenght, 20 mm diameter, pitch 1.50.
    I'm currently using the Easyrider 2 piece driveshaft setup in my ski now. The thur hull bearing is the support. The key to its successful use is proper alignment. Don't know if any of this will work for your application I'm simply showing you some options that are available.
    That is really interesting, I had not seen that setup. Thanks for sharing it. I have some more thinking to do now if the system works.

    Sean


  13. #20
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    hmmmmm looks like I was partially mistaken on the driveshaft

    the 2010 rxt-x 260 has a threaded bit on the driveshaft that takes a nut, but it also has splines for the PTO

    have no idea what that nut does, except give people fits when they have to deal with it.

    since discontinued. that was the model year or two when seadoo tried attaching the pump to the ride plate instead of the hull

    didn't work as well as they though, so they went back to what did work in 2012 or 2013

    LINK

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