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  1. #91
    Worst case scenario I know kaza racing makes custom ones.

  2. #92
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwhc View Post
    Worst case scenario I know kaza racing makes custom ones.
    Sweet, thanks Mike. It looks like if I can find the stock rxt-x shaft (its somewhere in the abyss) and use my adjusted mounts, it may work. I will know tomorrow hopefully.

    Sean

  3. #93
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Pump Adapter

    Smells like freshly machined aluminum. I can now make motor mounts.

    Sean

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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 09-27-2020 at 06:28 PM.

  4. #94
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Pump Adapter Install and Test Fit

    Merde.

    Someone, not sure who but I bet his name starts with "S" and ends in "ean" somehow flipped the part... That's a $300 mistake... I think I can work around it by putting a plug into the larger water port and just tap the top for a feed. Good thing I got 2 blanks cut...

    Sean


    See the Green Section and Open Port... That should be covered by the material that is currently blocking the VTS Rod...


    Once Again for the Second Time


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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 09-27-2020 at 06:27 PM.

  5. +1 by:


  6. #95
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Cables and VTS

    I played around with my vts, steering, and reverse cables this evening.

    The steering cable will use the stock Kawasaki cable, its even the same length as the cable I used with my 155mm pump.

    The reverse cable also looks to be a stock Kawasaki cable length. I moved the reverse cable thru hull fitting into the left hand side water thru hull hole since that is where the cable wanted to go.

    The vts motor required drilling a hole next to the 2 stock Kawasaki bilge suction thru hulls. The stock fittings were removed since they fouled on the pump adapter.

    I also placed the order for the metal to fabricate the rear motor mounts and once I am happy with those, I will toss those into the real hull and get to work on the rest of the ski.

    I still need to yank the pump shoe out of my good hull and fabricate the adapter tunnel to connect the Kawasaki shoe to the pump adapter. I also need to figure out what to do to support the carbon seal.

    Sean



    Steering Cable with Extension


    Reverse Cable Position


    VTS Mount Location



    VTS Clearance


    Reverse Cable Routing


    More VTS
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 09-27-2020 at 06:25 PM.

  7. #96
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Motor Mounts Part 1

    After figuring out the pump adapter setup, then figuring out that I made the first one backwards... I was finally able to play with the motor mount position and motor alignment. Prior to making the pump adapter out of aluminum, I test fit everything with 3/4" plywood. Once I had a ballpark of what size the motor mounts needed to be, I placed an order for some 4"x8"x0.75" aluminum. This covers enough area for the left side to mount up to the factory Kawasaki motor mount and still fit the doo mount at the back. The right side was more of a mess. I ended up shifting the Kawasaki mounting bar inside the hull further out by ~1" ( I will measure this when I install the mounts in the actual hull). I had to shift the mount outwards because the rear oil pump? on the rotax motor fouls on the rearmost bolt if it is left alone. Once that was shifted, it actually looked like I could probably just make duplicate mounts but the head of the bolt that attaches the adapters to the hull fouled on the doo motor mounts on both sides. To fix that, I ended up counter-boring the rear bolt holes with a 3/4" bit to recess the heads. I plan to cut the side of the counterbore out so water can't pool in the hole before installing them.

    Once I had the flat plates cut down and the mounting holes drilled, I test fit them in the hull and checked the alignment. The front mount is currently a 0.25" thick aluminum plate with 3 doo motor mount spacers between it and the mount. I am not happy with how flexible it is so I am going to work out some gussets and probably make it out of stainless. Since the alignment was reasonably close, I pulled the alignment tool out and installed the pump and rxtx driveshaft to set the fore-aft position. Its sitting at around 0.25" gap right now with the driveshaft bumper installed. I am calling it close enough to pop the threaded holes into the mount plates for the motor mounts to bolt down to.

    I will throw up some more detailed pictures in the next couple posts but since I was tired, I called it quits and came inside to do my writeup for you dear reader.

    Sean



    Mount plates, I didn't take any pictures during this process. Negligence on my part.



    Shaft fully retracted



    Shaft fully inserted



    Right side mount



    Right side mount, from behind



    Left Side Mount



    "Installed driveline"



    Cutouts for clearance and mount positions
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 09-26-2020 at 02:14 PM.


  8. #97
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Motor Mount Adapter Fitting

    Once the mount adapters were drilled and tapped for the new bolt size, I started to install them in the actual 15f hull. To do this, I had to trim the stock inner rails down since the mounting surface is flat but the mounts foul on the raised sections shown below. That done, I moved onto test fitting again and found that the outer edges of the mounts fouled on the inner surface of the footwell mount. I trimmed those back and sanded them flat which allowed the left hand mount to fit properly. The right side mount still fouled since it gets shifted ~0.5" away from center. To fit that mount, I had to chop the front and back of the mount at an angle and then sand a radius into the bottom corner of the mounts.

    Sean


    Raised Section of Motor Mount Area on Left Side


    Same Thing on the Right


    Mount, Mounting Surface


    Mount Interference


    Clearanced and Bolted Down


    Right Side Mount Trimmed and Location Marked


    Right Side Mount


    Right Side Mount from Behind


    Mounts Moderately Mounted
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 09-27-2020 at 06:22 PM.

  9. #98
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    More work, its actually a pseudo KawiDoo now.

    I had a decent amount of faith in my mounts after working on them yesterday so I decided to jump headfirst into the swap and start cutting the actual 15f hull for clearance. The stock Seadoo mounts on the GTX hull I have is between 19-7/8" and 20-1/8" across. Since the left side mount uses the stock Kawasaki mount position, I mounted that adapter and measured out an even 20" between the mounting holes. Once I was happy with the position, I center drilled the holes and then marked out the clearance I needed for the motor.

    I cut several 1.5" diameter holes into the corners of the cutouts to make closing the cutout easier and minimize stress risers then cut the rest of the perimeter out with my oscillating multitool. Once I popped out the scrap piece and chipped out the closed cell foam I shifted the stock right side motor mount over by ~0.5" then bolted everything up and double checked my dimensions.

    I also used the empty hull as an opportunity to chip out the remaining inner bearing support structure and all the Kawasaki poo-colored glue that holds the thru hull fittings in place. All the rideplate and intake grate inserts were corroded to hell so those will be getting replaced with some form of an aluminum adapter block both to prevent this from happening again, and to ensure the intake grate stays where I put it.

    All that tedious work done, I dropped the motor in and bolted it in place. I then transferred the pump adapter plate over to the installed shoe on the hull and checked the alignment. Not to toot my own horn but I was dead nuts on with the alignment, it was actually better than I had been able to get it on the mock up hull.

    Motor finally in place I checked clearance on the exhaust, which fit with room to spare and tried to install the intake manifold. The intake manifold fouled on the hull right where the runners are glued to the plenum when I tried to install it. To correct this, I removed the manifold mounts and tried to install it again. The manifold was still blocked by the dip stick mount. I trimmed the mount to allow for the manifold to slip over without snagging. Clearance made, the manifold fits... barely. Tightening the manifold bolts will probably give more clearance but it is still really close. I may grind back the hull near the seam, and see if I can trim the manifold seam slightly.

    Intake as close as possible right now, I moved onto checking the exhaust. The manifold clears no problem which is where it fouled before I had the mounts correct. Things get messy when I tried to fit the waterbox and waterbox inlet. If I rotate the waterbox inlet where it will clear the hull, it hits the supercharger. If I rotate it the other way, it rubs on the hull and there is no chance of it fitting the stock waterbox.

    On the outside of the ski, I pulled the alignment tool out and bolted the pump up to check shaft float. At this point, I realized why its not exactly a good idea to make test adapters out of wood, doubly so when the test adapter cracks when you are test fitting it. With the pump installed using the actual adapter, the trim ring fouled on the rear of the rideplate. The R&D rideplate came with a slot in the rear of the plate so I took this as a sign that it was okay to cut it wider. Once the slot was cut and the edges mostly smoothed, the trim cycles fully and should only slightly drag. I will end up knocking the leading edge of the trim ring down slightly so its not a sharp corner.



    Sean


    Cutout Marked and Trimmed


    Cutout Removed


    Motor Installed


    Intake Manifold Squeezed In


    Exhaust Clearance


    Super Close Fit Where the Clamp/Hose Will Sit


    Fully Trimmed Down


    Fully Trimmed Up


    Slot Cut, Fully Trimmed Down


    Slot Cut Fully Trimmed Up
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 09-27-2020 at 06:12 PM.

  10. #99
    steve45's Avatar
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    I've enjoyed reading your write-up, even though I really don't understand exactly what you're doing many times. I can't wait to start on the Kawasaki engine conversion of my Yamaha jet boat!

  11. #100
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    I've enjoyed reading your write-up, even though I really don't understand exactly what you're doing many times. I can't wait to start on the Kawasaki engine conversion of my Yamaha jet boat!
    Where did I lose you Steve? I am always looking to improve.



    For better or for worse, this project has bounced around quite a bit over its lifetime. I didn't really settle on anything until about a month ago when I pulled the trigger on the adapters. Since there is the possibility someone else is asking themselves the same questions I was, I wanted to leave a paper trail of my thought process. I may go back and edit the posts so its more up to date with how it turns out but for now its not worth changing too much.

    I may end up doing another ski like this one but using the GTX parts (no trim). If I go that route, I will have a pair of 12f motors with no homes.


    Back to the ski, I just placed an order for a J-pipe and will play around with that when it gets here. I don't see the 08+ exhaust working without making some big changes to the waterbox or cutting the hull more. With Respect to the hull, the early model 15f's were made with the exhaust outlet on the left side. This hull used to be my 15f project before it fell into project hell. As such, I already have a pneumatic trim setup made for it that is based on the left hand exhaust. The mounts might swap left to right but since I made the parts back in 2013 only God knows what was going on in my head back then.



    Running the exhaust outlet on the other side would simplify plumbing and probably installation/removal but will take extra effort fabricate the first time. Either way, I need to wait for my J-pipe to be delivered later this week.

    Sean
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