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  1. #1

    2000 Genesis carbed showing overheat warning instead of reverse

    Hey guys Iím new to the forum and new to the Pwc world. About to put the ski in today for the first time(crossing fingers).
    I searched the forum but donít think anyone has discussed this issue, if they have my apologies).
    As the title suggests. When I put the ski in reverse the overheat warning shows up on the display, as soon as I go back in forward the display goes back to normal...
    ive read things about an orange wire? Maybe the display is getting the wrong feed?
    Maybe both the rev limit changes when the ski is in reverse or overheating, so the cdi is sending the wrong warning but technically doing the same thing?
    I already replaced the LR505 to fix a bulge pump button holding to start engine issue.
    I donít think this issue will stop the ski from running properly but Iím a perfectionist and want this thing reliable.
    Thanks in advance!
    óBilló


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Does this machine have a manual reverse lever or the PERC electric reverse system?

    Check that the wiring inside the electrical box is correct. I suspect one or more wires are on the wrong terminals. Each terminal is marked with the wire color but sometimes it is easy to put the wire onto an adjacent incorrect terminal.

    Pay particular attention to wire colors Brown, Gray, and Gray/Red.

  3. #3
    I’ll crack open the box tomorrow assuming I survive the sea trial today.
    Thanks for the color coding that always helps. I’m assuming these wites would be on a jumper board?
    Yes this is the electric reverse thing.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VetterV8 View Post
    Iíll crack open the box tomorrow assuming I survive the sea trial today.
    Thanks for the color coding that always helps. Iím assuming these wites would be on a jumper board?
    Yes this is the electric reverse thing.
    If there are problems inside the electrical box, I would not assume it is limited to the incorrect overheat warning. The actual overheat sensor may not be connected, and there may be other wires that are not as they should be.

    I suggest correcting the electrical problem and taking the time to verify there are no other issues with the electrical system. An electrical failure while on the water might cause you to be stranded, possibly with an electrical fire.

  5. #5
    This issue is on hold, Ski ran great today but saw water coming in via driveshaft. Cut the test run short. Hopefully this seal replacement is easy, So I can get back to playing electrician.

  6. #6
    K447, do you know a thread on getting the driveshaft out? I’ve been looking and can only find the one that says take off 4 long bolts, and cable connections. I did that, and also removed the 2 water connectors. Do I just pull? I’m surprised there’s no C clamp or shaft retainer... the props stay in place?

  7. #7
    Thought I replied but don’t see it...
    if I need a thread please let me know.

    I undid the 4 long bolts and tried your 2x4 approach, also tried the trailer tied to a tree approach. ( probably didn’t pull that much, was being cautious).
    Any tips or thoughts?
    I now u did the 4 nuts inside the hull, but this thing is caulked to survive a tsunami...
    wishing I never bought this thing...
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  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VetterV8 View Post
    ...
    I now u did the 4 nuts inside the hull, but this thing is caulked to survive a tsunami...
    Why did you remove the nuts inside the hull? Those are normally not touched unless you need to remove the base of the jet pump, which is the section that is well sealed to the hull transom.

    If you just want to remove the jet pump stator section (which will also bring the impeller out) then put the nuts inside the hull back on. You donít want to loosen the pump base unless you have a reason to be removing it.

    If the stator section is corroded/stuck to the pump base then it can take some work to separate the sections. Penetrant spray, time to let it soak in, plus mechanical force. Using a long 2x4 as lever can work but it might take more force than you are expecting. Vibration (hammer tapping all the way around the seam) can help.

    Sometimes I would remove the ride plate so I could get better access to the jet pump.

    In difficult cases it can it can take a couple of days working at it for the penetrant to seep in along with repeated joint tapping and aggressive levering against the stator section sides and top.

  9. #9
    When I couldn’t get the stator off I thought I’d try and remove the whole thing, but that wasn’t coming off either, okay I’ll get a longer 2x4 and I won’t play nice with this thing tomorrow. Thanks

  10. #10
    Okay got off the stator thank you, I used an 8’ board and yes the nuts were reattached first. Do I need a new driveshaft? I don’t see any bearings in the coupler so can I just replace the seals? (Old silver version)
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