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  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by zperez2012 View Post
    So It seems to run good from the few spurts of me feeding it premix , noticed that there were a couple dry rotted oil lines so I stopped there and found some Tygon line at a local lawn mower dealer . Got a hot battery put in today and got the air box off , going to do the lines tomorrow . Any advice for the big line coming from the oil tank? Still tygon or what type ?
    Also on the other 150 it’s still clicking , doesn’t sound like it’s coming from that black box in the front but still clicking from the solenoid box , tried jumping it and nothing , any tips on what to check next ? Thanks guys
    Make sure you connect the oil lines properly. Follow the service manual. It is very important each output of the oil pump goes to the right carb and engine case.

    Tygon from the oil tank to the pump is correct. You could use black fuel line as well but I like Tygon so you can see there is oil in the line.

    I would recommend running premix in the tank so there is plenty of oil while the lines are priming.

    I can't help with the other 150 just clicking. Maybe somebody else can.

  2. #22
    steve45's Avatar
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    Do NOT mix up the oil lines! They carry different amounts. Replace one at a time. Even better, get a service manual and verify that they are hooked up correctly before you start. Use Tygon or polyurethane for all hoses.

    I prefer to make the carburetor hoses extra long so you can pull the carbs easily without disturbing the hoses. I secure mine with .025" stainless steel safety wire, two wraps around the hose, then twist the ends together.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Do NOT mix up the oil lines! They carry different amounts. Replace one at a time. Even better, get a service manual and verify that they are hooked up correctly before you start. Use Tygon or polyurethane for all hoses.

    I prefer to make the carburetor hoses extra long so you can pull the carbs easily without disturbing the hoses. I secure mine with .025" stainless steel safety wire, two wraps around the hose, then twist the ends together.
    Steve can you explain to me about the lines carrying different amounts,im missing something.thanks

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    Make sure you connect the oil lines properly. Follow the service manual. It is very important each output of the oil pump goes to the right carb and engine case.

    Tygon from the oil tank to the pump is correct. You could use black fuel line as well but I like Tygon so you can see there is oil in the line.

    I would recommend running premix in the tank so there is plenty of oil while the lines are priming.

    I can't help with the other 150 just clicking. Maybe somebody else can.
    sure you can help,send him the box I sent you for free that you cant use,it's for a 150 & has everything in it buddy,pass it forward.???

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by kartracer View Post
    sure you can help,send him the box I sent you for free that you cant use,it's for a 150 & has everything in it buddy,pass it forward.???
    I will happily pass it on if that is what the OP needs. I'll post a pic of what kartracer gave me when I get home. If you need it just pay me shipping and I'll ship it out. Kartracer has been very helpful to me. I bought two cylinders off of him for a very fair price. If he lived closer, he couldn't live much further away from me in the US, I think we would be pals.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by kartracer View Post
    Steve can you explain to me about the lines carrying different amounts,im missing something.thanks
    There are 5 lines coming off of the pump of a 150/1200 oil pump. Each one is designed to flow a different amount of oil to each output. The outer carbs use some oil from the crank case for example. So the lines that flow to the outer carbs is different than the line that flows to the center carb. Also the engine output oil lines are also different. That is why it is crucial the correct oil output lines of the pump connect to the proper input line of the carb and engine.

    Just follow the service manual to be sure the oil lines are routed correctly.


  7. #27
    OP if this what you need send me a PM. Just pay shipping and I'll "pass it on".
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #28
    zperez2012's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    OP if this what you need send me a PM. Just pay shipping and I'll "pass it on".

    That is where the clicking is coming from, not sure if it’s just the solenoid or “starter relay” or the whole assembly. But if there’s a way to check it before I ask you for it I’ll gladly do that . If not let me know and I’ll pm you to get the shipping info etc. so close to having the modded 150 running I definitely can’t wait

  9. #29
    jakber's Avatar
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ID:	452369 the circled bit is there starter relay and thatís whatís clicking, if you can get a genuine Kawasaki relay thatíd be the best way to go for replacement, as the other brands donít last. Make sure you seal that box back up as best you can when you put it back together because that box is the first one to get water in it if itís not sealed properly

  10. #30
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zperez2012
    That is where the clicking is coming from, not sure if it’s just the solenoid or “starter relay” or the whole assembly.
    The gold colored part is a relay. A solenoid s a device that pushes the starter pinion into the flywheel. A relay is simply a high current switch that is operated by a low current circuit. JetSkis don't use starter solenoids.

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