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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Wellington, New Zealand
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    2001 Virage TX(i) electrical woes

    Hi folks

    Firstly - thanks for all the information already available through the site. I have had a bit of a look and also downloaded the applicable manual (thanks K447) but haven't yet found the answer to my question.

    My ski is a 2001 Polaris Virage TX (export model?) I believe this is more like the North American TXi as it's Ficht injected. I recently bought the ski from a guy who had blown the original engine. He bought a replacement used engine from the US and shipped it down to New Zealand however that's as far as the got (father son project, son moved away etc).

    Since picking it up, I've pulled the fuel and oil tanks and cleaned them out, powered up the fuel pump to be sure it worked before reinstalling it into the hull and then went on to install the replacement engine and plugged everything in. I'm at the point of checking for fuel and spark and am getting nothing. I would expect the fuel pump to have a prime cycle on power up and have checked for spark at the plugs also with no success. The dash all lights up as it should so I have power to that point and the bilge also is operating so there's power to the electrical box at the back.

    I would have expected this to be a result of a bad earth but all earths have good continuity back to the battery from wherever they mount on the block/head. Is it likely I have a dead EMM and is there a simple way to test for this? I've downloaded DW and will cobble together the connector during the week to see how I go in this regard. There is one connector in the loon that I can't see where it should go on the motor too. I wouldn't have thought this would prevent both spark and fuel circuits from not functioning but you never know. If someone can give me some insight would be most appreciated. It separates off the loom quite close to the TPS plug.

    Any suggestions welcome.

    Cheers
    Marcus
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  2. #2
    downunder123
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    Welcome to GH!

    The ground point on your engine is the bolt at the back of your crankcase, PTO end, the exhaust side. it should be clean and bolt fully tightened.
    The connector in the picture is for the air temp sensor. The sensor is located in the upper throttle body, under the very top plate and below the flame arrester. If you look under the top plate (no need to take the red cover off ) you will see the temp sensor. Kind of difficult to get to.
    Once you find and reconnect the air temp sensor try starting the engine again.
    If that doesn't work you should check that you have +20V on white/red wire while cranking with all white/red cables connected. You battery is good and charged?
    If that doesn't work you can check the stator's winding resistances.
    Once you get your DW cables sorted and connect to EMM it may give you more clues to what the problem is (presuming you have no spare EMM to try it out in the meantime).
    Good luck.
    Cheers

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome.

    Your 2001 3 cylinder model is the Virage TXi despite the hull decal saying just TX.

    The FICHT fuel pump does not power up until the engine is actually cranking on the starter motor. Same for spark ignition.

    The Ficht EMM controls virtually everything on the Ficht engine, except actual cranking. It will not attempt to fire the engine unless the inputs and sensors are within range. Ficht is unusual in many ways, not at all like traditional fuel injection on cars.

    Click my signature link to read more about Ficht and these Polaris watercraft.

    The lanyard must be present to allow engine start, but it will crank without the lanyard.

    You may want to bypass the LR-503 module (aka Start/Stop module) and keep it bypassed until you get the engine running. A bad LR-503 can prevent engine start even though everything else is correct.

    Also make sure the battery is really healthy and can deliver solid voltage while cranking. A marginal strength battery can confound diagnostics.

  4. #4
    martincom's Avatar
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    Can you successfully run the static tests from DW? (ignition coils, you'll actually hear the sparkplugs arcing in the cylinders, injectors, you'll hear them clacking, and the fuel pump, you'll hear it running.) If so, the EMM is not detecting rotation via the CPS.

  5. #5

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    Wellington, New Zealand
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    Thanks folks. SOme homework for me to look at over the next few days. I'll get my air temp sensor sorted and diagnostics cable and try all suggested above.

    I'll report back once I've tried all your suggestions.

    Thanks!

  6. #6

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    Aug 2019
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    So I've checked what I can so far which is a little limited as I'm having a little trouble with digital wrench not talking to the ski. Not sure if it's my usb to rs232 adapter or something else (I can see the com port but that's about it - dw tries to connect but won't).
    What I've checked so far:
    Bypassed LR503 as instructed.
    Battery fully charged (and using one from my Jeep so plenty big enough).
    Checked lanyard switch resistance as per factory manual.
    Crank angle sensor = out of spec, this comes in at 550 ohms so bad start there.
    I have no voltage on the white/red feeds while cranking.
    Stator widing resistances are all out of spec (the ones with max.3 ohms are at .5 and the max .5 are .7-.9).
    Another observation was the EMM itself - I pulled it out so I can check the larger connectors loom and found the label is different than those I've seen on the web. It's part number is listed as whaler37 which I see is the development name rather then a part number? Anyone come across this before?
    At this stage I'm wondering if all test variances are enough to cause no voltage from the EMM. I'll hunt down an older laptop this week and try again with DW but right now I'm scratching my head as to if this is likely a dead EMM. Is the voltage on the dash provided from the EMM or directly? This seems to be reading fairly accurately.

    One again, all feedback very welcome and I really appreciate all your help..

    Cheers

  7. #7
    downunder123
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    Depending on your multimeter those small resistances are typically hard to measure. They are not too far out of spec. Measure the resistance of your probes first and add that to your stator winding's resistance readings. CPS needs replacement. Pull it out (CPS) and have a look if there is a physical damage to the sensor's part that lives inside the flywheel housing. It looks to me you problem is around flywheel, stator area.
    EMM part no Whaler 37 is ok, not to worry about that.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrlentle View Post
    ...
    Crank angle sensor = out of spec, this comes in at 550 ohms so bad start there.

    I have no voltage on the white/red feeds while cranking.

    Stator winding resistances are all out of spec (the ones with max.3 ohms are at .5 and the max .5 are .7-.9).

    Another observation was the EMM itself - I pulled it out so I can check the larger connectors loom and found the label is different than those I've seen on the web. It's part number is listed as whaler37 which I see is the development name rather then a part number? Anyone come across this before?

    ...
    There are two stator resistance checks. Coil ohms, and resistance to engine ground from each coil. Each coil should measure open circuit to the engine. Keep your fingers off the meter probes for this check.

    CPS at 550 ohms is way out of spec. Retest to confirm. Be careful not to damage the connector pins.

    Whaler37 on the EMM label suggests somehow a diagnostic or development EMM somehow got into the wild.

    No voltage at all on white/red (while engine is cranking) suggests a broken wire, perhaps an unplugged connector. Or a significant internal failure of the EMM power section.

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  10. #9
    strokendiesel002's Avatar
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    I apologise for my ignorance, but is it really that damaged that just a new woodruff key can't fix it?

  11. #10

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    Aug 2019
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    Wellington, New Zealand
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    Only woodruff is damaged/sheered but from what I've read on here I've been given the impression that the OEM is preferable (and I don't want to find myself stuck somewhere).
    The motor is new to the ski, imported from the States after the original failed (previous owner) so I don't know what may have caused the stoppage though considering it ran a couple minutes before the flywheel shifted I guess it didn't happen long before they parted out the donor ski.
    In regard to the exhaust, the PO has replaced the plastic baffles (while it still had the original engine in it) with stainless pipe. I'm sure it'll be louder that stock but it's still a lot quieter than my JS300 or my Waverunner so I'm happy provided the hull remains dry inside.I'l check out the crank tonight for play, thanks for the tip!

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