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  1. #21
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    EMM's definitely don't like to be overheated

    It's great that you have DW running. Check the timing values in DW, I strongly suspect that your timing values are completely out of whack, causing the backfiring issue. (This means the EMM needs repair, bad timing is not caused by bad C89). I (via Lakeside Tech) can repair your EMM, and/or offer a rebuilt replacement with warranty.


  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by HiPeRcO View Post
    EMM's definitely don't like to be overheated

    It's great that you have DW running. Check the timing values in DW, I strongly suspect that your timing values are completely out of whack, causing the backfiring issue. (This means the EMM needs repair, bad timing is not caused by bad C89). I (via Lakeside Tech) can repair your EMM, and/or offer a rebuilt replacement with warranty.
    Thanks HiPeRcO. I did notice an old comment on a thread in regard to timing so I checked yesterday. Ignition timing at cranking sits solid at 10 degrees btdc. Fuel timing fluctuates between 150 and 180 btdc which seems pretty out of whack to me (automotive background) but I could be wrong?
    Assuming it is the EMM, are you OK shipping to me (at my cost) even though I'm not based in the USA? Alternatively I have an address I can forward from in Portland though would prefer direct shipping if possible.
    Thanks
    Marcus

  3. #23
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Hmm, those timing values are within reason so now I'm puzzled again. It is possible that they are actually intermittent, try rapping on the EMM cover and see if they suddenly become like large negative numbers. Also you can monitor them while the engine is cranking.

    I'd be glad to fix your EMM, if it comes to that, I've fixed many of them from out of the country

  4. #24
    downunder123
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    54C max EMM temp is not alarming. Typically, it would take about 45 min for EMM without cooling to heat up. EMM will still work but the idle revs would creep up. Once EMM overheats there is a very good chance it would need some repairs. HiPeRcO especially loves those EMMs...
    In DW you can check the EMM hours and consider the expense of sending EMM to US with shipping $ both ways + $ conversion and any local taxes, if you have any.
    Finally, we are at the mid summer down here, I suggest to get a spare EMM for troubleshooting and the insurance against the dry days in garage during season.

  5. #25

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    OK so I have checked values as per suggested - both under cranking and giving the EMM a tap and all values remain as per above. 10 degrees btdc on the ignition timing and 150-180 btdc on the fuel. Thus I'm thinking really suggests something further down the food chain. I have replaced the entire loom and I can trigger fuel, ignition and pump and they all action as they should though I did think MAG injector had a funny tone to it compared to the other two. I know you're not supposed to cycle the fuel system with the injectors out of the heads but decided to take a closer look. Fuel reg looks like it's going to be an issue as pressure falls off almost instantly but it will show about 25 psi while cycling the pump in DW. I pulled the injectors and cycled the fuel pump with the intention of getting some pressure up and then cycling the injectors. Someone has been here before me and there's 518 loctite about the base of the injectors. I cycled the fuel pump and the nozzle on the MAG injector simply fell out. The other 2 remain in place but bled fuel everywhere. Would this be expected to be normal if they're pressurised out of the head? I see they have a spring clip to hold the nozzle in the injector and am assuming the pressure or the nozzle against the head would seal it all up?
    Any suggestions/ideas most welcome - I'm really confused.

  6. #26
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrlentle View Post
    ... you're not supposed to cycle the fuel system with the injectors out of the heads ... I cycled the fuel pump and the nozzle on the MAG injector simply fell out. The other 2 remain in place but bled fuel everywhere.

    Would this be expected to be normal if they're pressurised out of the head? ...
    That is precisly why you cannot pressurize the fuel system if the fuel injectors are not mounted into the cylinder heads. The fuel pressure leaks out around the injector tip and the tip can be pushed right out of the injector.

    Note: Do not swap injector tips between injectors, otherwise the injector flow rates may be affected and no longer match the provided EMM injector compensation table.

    The Ficht fuel injector depends on the clamping force against the cylinder head to hold the injector tip in place and not leak fuel.

    The seal between injector tip and the cylinder head is metal on metal. No sealant, no rubber seal or o-ring. The injector body must be centered in the bore and the two retianing bolts must be tightened evenly so as to not cock the injector to one side and/or bind in the deep opening.

  7. #27

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    Thanks K447 - I'm aware of the mixing and matching potential issues. Any suggestions as to additional troubleshooting please? I'll stand on my head if that'll help - I don't want to admit defeat but all signs point that this thing should actually fire. I'll clean all the sealant crap off the injectors and remount.

  8. #28
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrlentle View Post
    ... all signs point that this thing should actually fire.

    I'll clean all the sealant crap off the injectors and remount.
    You do not need any fuel flow or pressure at all in the Ficht fuel system to start the engine.

    You can dribble a teaspoon of fuel down each throttle body and the fuel primed Ficht engine should start right up and run for a few seconds.

    If it does not start even when fuel primed, there is a problem with ignition (weak spark) or ignition timing (wrong timing, bad EMM). Or something else basic is wrong (intake reeds, compression, etc)

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  10. #29

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    OK, back to basics. I have tried tipping some fuel in and no change to my situation (bigger back fire than before) thus pointing to ignition or compression side of things.
    Spark looks good at the plugs and timing is showing as what I'm told it should on DW (10 degrees btdc spark and between 150 and 180 btdc for fuel) while cranking. I'll pull the inlet off tomorrow and check out the reed valves. It just seems bizarre to me that it was running fine and then just dropped off. Maybe the first misfire has disturbed something?
    One thing I should note too - on the new loom I haven't disabled the LR unit as I was told this assembly was pulled from a running ski. I should also try this tomorrow before pulling to manifold to see if there's any change.

    Thanks again folks for all your input.

  11. #30
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Backfiring almost has to be bad timing. While cranking, monitor the engine sync signal (plot it in DW). If it locks in to sync, then I'm thinking that perhaps your flywheel has sheared the key, or your crankshaft is really bent.

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