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  1. #11
    martincom's Avatar
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    How about updating your profile to indicate your location? There maybe someone nearby that can help.


  2. #12

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    Good point, done. Not optimistic as there are very few Polaris Skis down here from what I can see (total of 2 Polaris Skis for sale on our national equivalent of Ebay).

  3. #13
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrlentle View Post
    ...
    Crank angle sensor = out of spec, this comes in at 550 ohms so bad start there.

    I have no voltage on the white/red feeds while cranking.

    Stator winding resistances are all out of spec (the ones with max.3 ohms are at .5 and the max .5 are .7-.9).

    Another observation was the EMM itself - I pulled it out so I can check the larger connectors loom and found the label is different than those I've seen on the web. It's part number is listed as whaler37 which I see is the development name rather then a part number? Anyone come across this before?

    ...
    There are two stator resistance checks. Coil ohms, and resistance to engine ground from each coil. Each coil should measure open circuit to the engine. Keep your fingers off the meter probes for this check.

    CPS at 550 ohms is way out of spec. Retest to confirm. Be careful not to damage the connector pins.

    Whaler37 on the EMM label suggests somehow a diagnostic or development EMM somehow got into the wild.

    No voltage at all on white/red (while engine is cranking) suggests a broken wire, perhaps an unplugged connector. Or a significant internal failure of the EMM power section.

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  5. #14
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Whaler37 on the EMM label suggests somehow a diagnostic or development EMM somehow got into the wild.
    Actually "Whaler37" is not uncommon, I see that from time to time, probably on EMM's early in the production year. The DI manual does call it a "development version", but states : "Development name may be listed as the map version when using the diagnostic software. There should be no problems with the software if the development name is listed as the map version."
    Last edited by HiPeRcO; 08-18-2019 at 07:07 PM.

  6. #15
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    I know I know less than I used to, but now I know something.

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  8. #16

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    Hi folks. Once again - thank you for all the help thus far. I have now managed to connect DW to the ski. The diagnostic connector on the ski (not the laptop side) was damaged so the EMM hasn't been receiving power through the red/white loop back. I can now static test injectors, coils and fuel pump all with audible results.
    The CPS reading is 578 as per attached image, however now that I've plugged everything back in I can hear the fuel pump spooling up under cranking (which I couldn't before). Is this fair indication that the CPS is providing enough of a signal for all circuits controlled by the EMM?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #17
    martincom's Avatar
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    I would think that would be a logical conclusion. DW, I believe, monitors the CPS. So if there was an issue with it, it would register a fault code. You can unplug it with, DW connected, and see if it registers a fault code, to confirm. You can leave DW connected, without the service jumper, while cranking and it should display cranking RPMs and running RPMs, if it starts.

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  11. #18
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    The EMM does NOT monitor CPS ohms. Your CPS is way out of spec, replace it.

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  13. #19

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    Hi folks. Just an update, I received the NOS CPS and installed and now have spark so great start there. No injector pulse as yet but I suspect this may be a poor earth or feed as the main box at the back of the ski looks particularly sad (this has lived its life as a salt water ski as most do in NZ). I'll attack it with the multimeter on the weekend all going to plan and make more progress.

    Once again, thank you for all the input.

    Cheers
    Marcus

  14. #20

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    Aug 2019
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    Update on my situation.
    After running a meter across various sections of the loom I found a damaged earth. Having repaired the damage the ski then fired right up. The drive shaft is out of the ski while I get things sorted so I connected the hose and let the ski idle in my driveway for a bit while I checked charging etc. The ski sat and idled fine for a few minutes and then suddenly dropped a cylinder, then another and stalled. When I tried to restart it all I got was backfires out the exhaust that blew the pipe off the muffler. What I didn't realise was that the EMM water cooling wasn't connected at all so I'm wondering if I've managed to cook something in the EMM. Having checked with DW, it tells me the max temp the EMM has reached is 54 degrees (centigrade) which doesn't seem excessive to me though is certainly warm.
    At this point I came across a good used complete loom and chose to replace the one in the ski. The fuse/junction box in mine was in a pretty sorry state and the previous owner had tried to rewire it pretty crudely (salt water ski and tags had corroded of the boards).
    Having installed the replacement loom, I still have the exact same issue with a backfire and no actual start. If I use DW, I can cycle all the injectors, coils and fuel pump and can hear them all doing what they should. If I try and start the ski though, the injector and coil clicks become intermittent as does fuel pump operation (I temporarily hard wired the fuel pump to a second battery to eliminate this as a possible cause but no change). I have checked voltage at the red/white wires while cranking and have in excess of 20V, I have checked the stator resistances and AC voltages and they're all within spec (the 5V channels are just under 5V but assume this is still OK).
    Is there anything I'm missing here or is it looking like the EMM is going to be my problem? There's really nothing else on the ski that I can test and there's no-one local I can borrow an EMM from (I will have to buy from the USA). Replacing the C89 looks to be the common fix but is there a way I can verify this is the fault before I pull my EMM apart?
    Thanks again for everyones help.

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