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  1. #21
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaveChaser View Post
    Only doing what the Polaris manual says.

    I have changed the fuels switch with a new one.
    For some things we have learned more since the date the manual was published.

    Some problems occurred mostly after the machines had aged, beyond when the manuals and service bulletins were last updated. Polaris only made PWC from 1992 through 2004. In 2004 the oldest examples were barely more than a decade old. Now the newest models are nearly that old.

    The rubber part inside the fuel selector valve does age harden, but it takes a long time. The fuel valve is not rebuildable since the rubber piece is not available. There are also one or two o-rings inside. When the rubber gets old it can leak air into the fuel hoses during normal engine operation.

    Hairline cracks in the fuel filler neck might be another example, as are aged o-rings in the fuel filler neck/cap.

  2. #22
    I dont believe it is the fuel system. I have beat that and tested it to death.

    An air leak is my issue somewhere. When I installed the jugs, I did not have the manual at that time. It says to install the jug gaskets glue side up. I may not have installed them that way. Would that cause a cylinder leak?

  3. #23
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    If you suspect an air leak inside the engine, then the leak down test is the only way to confirm. It's quite easy to do, even inside the boat. You will need a new exhaust gasket as you will need to remove the expansion pipe and the carbs.

  4. #24
    Is RTV or some sealant needed for the jug gaskets? A friend of mine uses marine grease on them to re-use them and he never has any issue of leaks.

  5. #25
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Sealant is not needed, but it does help.

    What's more important is to preinstall the exh manifold prior to torqueing the cyls to spec.

    Did you do that?

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Sealant is not needed, but it does help.

    What's more important is to preinstall the exh manifold prior to torqueing the cyls to spec.

    Did you do that?
    Yes, I installed the manifold and torqued it before torquing the jugs.

    i preformed the leak down test. After 10 minutes it dropped 1 in hg. After 1hr8min it only dropped 3.5 in hg.

    If you look at my jug gaskets I posted above, the new ones only have 2 holes on the one end. The originals are cut out like this picture



    I wonder if I should cut the holes out to match?
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  7. #27
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Rest assured, you don't have an air leak causing you a problem inside the crankcase. 1" in 10 mins is acceptable.

    Those holes in the cyl base gaskets is irrelevant. Those I believe are for the old 92-93's that had cooling running through the case. Don't waste your time.

    Your issue lies elsewhere.

  8. #28
    I agree. Is there a procedure for aligning/mounting the carburetors? Even though if I align them up via the paint marks on the screws holes in the rail, they just don't drop in. Should they be like the exhaust manifold/jugs where you install the manifold and then torque down the jugs that you would leave the mounting screws loose on the carburetor rail, mount them, then tighten to the mounting screws? Can they get cocked enough not to seal?

  9. #29
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaveChaser View Post
    I agree. Is there a procedure for aligning/mounting the carburetors? Even though if I align them up via the paint marks on the screws holes in the rail, they just don't drop in. Should they be like the exhaust manifold/jugs where you install the manifold and then torque down the jugs that you would leave the mounting screws loose on the carburetor rail, mount them, then tighten to the mounting screws? Can they get cocked enough not to seal?
    I would loosen the mounting bracket across the carbs and ensure the carbs are seated proper... then lastly tighten the bracket. When I pull carbs, I don't remove the bracket... I leave them all bolted together... which also means I don't have to deal with the throttle and choke between-carb linkages.

    When running at idle... take some flammable brake-clean (or starting fluid) and spray around the carb bases and intake manifold. A rise in rpms while doing this will indicate a leak where air is getting sucked in. Easy test.

    Cheers!


  10. #30
    So had time to install them as Ripcuda described. I still have the PTO and Center cylinders spark plugs aluminum color and Mag nice and wet at 3300 rpm. Low carb adjust are at 2 turns out. I am going to try and look at the fuel rail pressure between the return and the restrictor. What should the PSI be, pop off pressure 18 lbs? I am also wanting to see what each carb has as well to compare. I am thinking it should be the pop off pressure.

    Does anybody know?

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