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  1. #1

    2001 GP800R resurrection

    Newbie to this forum, but figured I'd kick it off with a build thread. Pardon the broken up format, but this is mostly a C&P from a different forum I'm on...

    So, I'm the proud new owner of a free 2001 Yamaha
    GP800R that doesn't run. My aunt bought it new way back when and it's been literally rode hard and put away wet for years (never indoors, stored year round on a dock lift, etc). I was at her place last summer and tried to get it running for the first time that year and got no spark. She said "I told myself last year that I wasn't putting any more money into it. I'm calling the scrap yard unless you want it." So, that's how I ended up with a broken wave runner.

    Goals going into it were:
    1. Get it running.
    2. Do a round of other maintenance. What do these things need? I'm confident that nothing has been done.
    3. Do a low-key resto (graphics are all faded, clear coat is coming off on the blue parts. White (including the hull) seems fine. Digital dash (including fuel and oil gauges) is dead / filled with water. Want to fix or replace that.
    4. Hoon.

    What do I need to know?

    Plan is to go back in a few weeks and tow it back home and dig in. Hopefully have a plaything while there's still some summer left.


  2. #2
    Fast forward to a few weeks ago.....


    Finally cleared enough projects out to pull this one into the shop. Battery was from 2013, which explains it not wanting to turn over much or hold a charge worth a damn. So a replacement for that has been ordered. I dove into the wiring enough to determine that the kill switch seems to be behaving as it should. Pulled most of the plastic to help me gain access and just cause. We’ll see what a new battery and fresh plugs do for it, and then figure out next steps from there. The cosmetics are rough. Nothing to spend money on until its mechanically sound, but it needs a good bit of gel coat and several hundred dollars of stickers to look stock, or I might just diy spray it with automotive paint and punt on graphics.

  3. #3
    WE’VE GOT A RUNNER!!!!

    Installed the new battery. Pulled the old plugs and they looked like hell. Decided to turn it over without plugs since they looked to have water on them. Good call. Probably would have hydro locked had I not. Blew a ton of nasty shit out. Front cylinder was a relatively undisturbing quantity of shmang. The rear cylinder was NASTY. A lot of water mixed with various internal engine goo. I’m a little concerned with how water - especially that much - got into the engine. It did live outside this past winter and got below freezing. Who knows though.

    Anyway, turned it over until what was coming out was mostly dry and in fact started to get some straight oil out of it. Put the plugs in, grabbed the starter fluid, and went for it. First few times it would give at least minor signs of life. The occasional cylinder would hit enough for me to have some confidence in the existence of spark. More starter spray, more life, a little better every time. After a few rounds of that I finally got it to catch on it’s own fuel, and it came alive for a few seconds and blew more nasty shit out the exhaust and dumped water all over my shop. But it ran.

    I’ve got a flush adapter on the way, so when it gets here I’ll roll it outside, hook up the garden hose and see if I can get more than a few seconds out of her. I figured I’ll run it for a little while and then see if I can figure out anything on the water, compression test, etc. just to make sure that the motor is good before I start buying nonessential stuff like a new seat and registration and such. Will need to decide how much to “restore” now versus play while it’s summer and wrench in the winter.

  4. #4
    That brings us up to speed on the background. This past weekend I got the flush adapter, added some fuel system cleaner that's done me well in the past (Regane), topped it off with some fresh 93 Octane, and fired it up. First crank of the day it fired right up on the choke and shortly settled into a decent off-choke idle. After a few minutes to warm up I threw some revs at it to try and clean the pipes if you will. There's a fair bit of smoke at high RPM, but I also don't really recall what normal looks like on it. Also, generally high RPM was moving, so maybe with it sitting it just accumulates whereas it would normally have 50mph of airflow to disperse it at that RPM. Regardless, it seems to run really well and liked having it's throat cleared. I was continuing to clean it up cosmetically, but every couple of hours I'd hit the start button just for S&G and it would crank immediately and settle into a nice stable idle. So, at this point I think I'm ready for a test drive, at least mechanically.

    I need to figure out a gauge solution, as this one has a broken face and is full of rusty water. Not sure there's any coming back from that. Pretty pricey gauges on these things though. Need to figure out what I want to do for graphics, as all of the stuff on the top of the hull looks like hell. The plastics have flaking clear coat, but a buddy with a body shop said he could respray all of that for me for cheap. Probably going to spend some time with a gelcoat repair kit cleaning up a bunch of scratches and gouges, but that's feeling more like a winter project.

    Anybody have a gauge cluster kicking around for cheap? Looks like they rarely pop up, and are pricey when they do. New ones show still available, but for $600+, I'd rather not.

    Do vector graphics for the decals exist somewhere out there? I've seen the printed graphics kits on ebay. Just having that artwork would let me print my own (I have a large vinyl printer at work), but also might let me play with my own artwork if I can get the die lines right.

    Looking forward to a new forum to waste time on...

  5. #5
    I don't see any off-the-shelf boarding steps for the GPR. Has anyone fabbed something up or used one from a different model?

  6. #6
    Try one from a vx?

  7. #7
    Looks like most every boarding step mounts to the hull in the lower half, below the rub strips. Not a lot of real estate there on the GPR. It also seems like a lot of skis float higher in the water than the GPR. Looking at vids, the rear deck on the GPR floats right at the water line, meaning that a conventional step is going to be in the water creating drag. Not sure I love that. Presumably that's why there aren't any off the shelf ones available for the GPR. I might fabricate something that mounts up top at some point. Might try one of the cheesy rope ladders. We'll see.

    I haven't found a proper gauge for it yet, but I did verify that my plan B will work. I picked up a fuel level gauge from an early 90's model for $50 after confirming that the fuel sender uses the same resistance scale over that period, and it functions. Had to re-pin it to the later model plug, but the pins swapped over between the plug housings. At that point it plugs in and functions with no changes to the ski itself. If I go that route, I'll need to fabricate a plate that bolts in where the original did and mounts the smaller fuel gauge to that, but that's simple. I don't love losing the original gauge with this plan, but they are so expensive, and really - fuel level is the thing I'm most interested in. The speedometer is inaccurate and not really needed info. If I'm switching to pre-mix then the oil indicator is no longer needed. Best I can tell, the only thing I lose by going with the early gauge is the water temp warning. Not sure if that's a big deal or not. Input is welcomes.

  8. #8
    Dave in DE's Avatar
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    Dave,
    I hate to throw a wrench into your ski project pointing out the obvious. But with all the water you blew out of the cyl's. You need to stop running it and pull it down for thorough rebuild. Water in the base means the crank and rod brgs are trashed. Running it is a sure way to throw a rod through the side. Trashing a buildible motor.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave in DE View Post
    Dave,
    I hate to throw a wrench into your ski project pointing out the obvious. But with all the water you blew out of the cyl's. You need to stop running it and pull it down for thorough rebuild. Water in the base means the crank and rod brgs are trashed. Running it is a sure way to throw a rod through the side. Trashing a buildible motor.
    Not a horrible idea, I admit. Had I not already run it, I'd be more inclined to follow your lead. Since I already have, I'm inclined to just roll with it. I didn't hear any nastiness when it was running to imply compromised bearings. Something I'll certainly keep in mind though. I know what bad bearings sound like in a four stroke. Is a 2 stroke with roller bearings similar, or is it quiet until it goes boom?

    In the meantime, some pics...

    As I got it -


    Replaced the seat, pulled the plastics, started de-stickering...



    Fuel Gauge functional. Used the MT090-4 plug set from Cycle Terminal to get the right mating connector for the ski. From there, plug-n-play.



    Finally some before and in-process on the gelcoat repair -





    I'm still sanding the repairs out and then plan to polish the top half. Bottom seems good enough for now.
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  10. #10
    Dave in DE's Avatar
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    You Çant compare 4 stroke to 2 stroke brgs. 2 stroke roller and needle brgs get rust pits and slowly grind themselves apart. Till it goes boom as you say. I wouldn't ignore it. Water in the base is sure death to a 2 stoke. Unless, you happened to let's say sink it, got out, cleared, and running in a couple hours. And ran it for an HR or so to dry it out. in that scenario you'd be ok. But water water in the base left to set for a day or more and the brgs are pitted for sure.

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