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  1. #11
    Well damn. Time to do some learning. Thanks.


  2. #12
    I tried to be gentle with the gelcoat repair, but at some point I decided that the results were not great, and it was taking much longer than just block sanding to prep for paint. So that’s the new plan. Body work it straight followed by a DIY respray using automotive paint.

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  3. #13
    Keep it up, it's looking good!

  4. #14
    Body work is coming along. I’ve done 2 rounds of gelcoat filler on the nose and 90% of it is ready for paint. Got a few more incidental places that need attention around the rest of the ski. I’ve also got one hole that I’ve been working.

    Here it is after grinding the loose crap out with the die grinder.



    First round of glass was 3-4 layers of glass with some west 105 epoxy resin glueing it all together.



    Let that cure overnight and knocked down the high spots with some 80 grit.



    And finally another couple of layers of glass for good measure.



    That should be it for glass. I’ll knock it down one more time, do a round or two of gelcoat and/or filler and this should be ready for paint.

    Speaking of - rethinking the automotive base / clear. Current thought is to spray it with some rustoleum marine primer followed by rustoleum topside in gloss white. Feel free to tell me why that’s dumb.

    Also experimenting to see if I can do a reasonable job matching the OE metallic blue out of a rattlecan. The flat piece is Blue Cobalt Metallic with a dusting of Navy to darken it up. The square stock is the same colors in reverse order. Either way, I WILL clear coat this, but we’ll see if I am happy with the rattle can color options in the sunlight or if I’ll want to get some mixed to match.



    Finally, got the last of the remnants from the traction mats removed, which involved removing the rear rub rail. This area should need little more than a bit of sanding with some 400 before it’s ready for paint

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  5. #15
    IMO you really need to pull the carbs off and go
    threw them at minimum, and make sure to
    check ur oil lines going to them if u didn’t change it to premix, and issues with the carbs first time out lean and u will
    hurt it...

  6. #16
    I am going to convert to premix before it hits the water.

    Talk to me about going thru the carbs.

  7. #17
    Get genuine makuni kits, somthing as simple as a creased check valve will cause one to go lean and melt a piston l have been down this road is the only reason I mention it, I’d imagine with it setting for a few years the carbs are full of corrosion, and running without a load on it, “on the hose” isn’t enough to tell u much, make sure to do a Compresson check on it to, on the hose there’s no load so it hides a lot

  8. #18
    Dave in DE's Avatar
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    Best to also do the return mod also this helps if one carb pump does get weak or fails.

  9. #19
    Return mod. Is that the WaveEaters thing that folks talk about? https://wave-eater.com/shop/power-va...ade-kit-800cc/

    Oil pump elimination - I need to pull the airbox and exhaust to get to that, right? The actual bypass stuff looks super simple, but I haven't seen a writeup on actually getting to the pump and carbs.

  10. #20
    Dave in DE's Avatar
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    Sorry, it's the 3rd sticky down in the Yamaha how to's. Drilled carb return, fuel pressure Ballance. Only difference is you need an 87.5 main jet for the return line for the 800. The recipe is written for the 1200 but works on 800 with the return jet change.

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