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  1. #81
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What I would suggest is removing the jet pump nozzle (usual caveat, do not break any long pump bolts). Then slide the water tube backwards.

    If the water tube will wiggle right out of the pump base, that makes it easier to clean the area. Otherwise just work with the tube slid back an inch or so.

    Put a moderate bead of sealant around the water tube where so that the sealant will slide forward into the pump base. The idea is to get the sealant around the water tube inside the metal hole. So the sealant slides forward with the water tube and seals between the ouside of the tube and the inside of the metal cavity.

    Check the rubber o-ring at the rear end of the water tube. Make sure it is not age hardened or cracked. And no corrosion inside the tapered metal area of the nozzle. Apply a thin layer of waterproof grease to the o-ring and inside the tapered metal.

    Use the pump nozzle to slide the water tube forward, making sure the rear end of the water tube is nicely fitting into the nozzle end.

    Do not push the water tube any farther forward than what the rear nozzle needs as the nozzle gets bolted into position. You don't want the sealant to be worked back and forth and create air gaps.

    You MAY also find one or more o-rings on the front end of the water tube. If they are there, they are used as spacers to hold the water tube firmly into the jet pump end. Those forward o-rings do not create any sort of 'seal', they are just acting as rubbery spacers.

    The forward o-rings are the same size as the single o-ring on the rear end of the water tube.

    Sometimes the molded flange near the front end of the water tube is cracked away. That plastic flange (and the forward o-rings, if any) are what keeps the water tube in position against the jet pump nozzle at the rear end.
    I swear you guys are the freaking jedi knights of polaris watercraft lol. Not only were your instructions helpful, but you guys were exactly right the leak was coming from the water tube. Not only was the o-ring old and brittle, 80% OF IT WAS GONE lol. So much water was coming in it just made it look like it was coming from the bolt at the bottom, but I am totally convinced it's the water tube, there is no sealant left, no o-rings, nothing.

    EDIT: bought new o-rings and sealant, will just continue to follow instructions.
    Last edited by tenjuna; 05-11-2020 at 04:56 PM.

  2. #82
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Actually I think I found the part number, 5410735. Ordering a few of those and I have sealant coming already. Maybe, just maybe I will have this on the lake next weekend.

  3. #83
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Still waiting for o-rings to come in, but I have everything prepped and ready, should be a 10 minute job getting this done after that.

    Got my 2004 seadoo gtx sc out on the lake today and of course the girlfriend decided it was hers now lol. Really hoping to have this done by next weekend.

    Here is what I have left now:

    • reverse motor is reversed, need to swap the cables
    • fix leak
    • new clamp inside fuel pump (realized I forgot to clamp the send hose inside the unit)
    • fuel lines replaced (plus sheathing to protect them from rubbing on injector frames)
    • steering cable lubed (still tight, need to try again or just buy a new one)
    • refresh plastics with uv protectant spray
    • finish seats
    • ride the dang thing!

  4. #84
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    So I got the three major things done today:

    • reverse motor is reversed, need to swap the cables
    • fix leak
    • new clamp inside fuel pump (realized I forgot to clamp the send hose inside the unit)

    However, now the reverse arm smacks into the steering cable right where it comes out of the hull. I do not understand what I could have done to make this not align properly, though it's possible I did this last summer and never noticed it.

    Anyone have any pictures of the jet pump area of a 2003 genesis i? I have been on the internet for quite a while and I just cannot get a good enough view to see where I may have screwed up.

    Unfortunately, it appears this may have broken the steering cable, and I am sure it's going to be leaking now when I put it in the water tomorrow. I don't mind replacing the cable, but I would like to understand why the metal bracket between the cam and the plastic arm that goes to the reverse bucket now tries to occupy the same space as the steering cable.

    Thank you!

  5. #85
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    I am going to unhook the reverse motor, as something is not right. It was working fine last night after pulling it out to swap the wires, but I just went out to check it again and now it's doing the same thing pressing FWD makes it go in reverse and vice-versa. I have no clue how that could possibly be, since it worked just fine last night after putting it back in.

    Also, now the display says --REVERSE-- and the red light is blinking no matter what position I put it in. Also, the gauge is going in the opposite direction of where it actually is.

    Clearly, something isn't right. Or maybe multiple somethings.

    I really need some help with pictures of how the reverse and steering linkage is supposed to be above the jet pump, and pictures of correct wiring connections to the reverse motor switches. Yes, I am aware of the wiring diagram and that is what I have followed to this point, but obviously something has been lost in translation.

    Anyone? Bueller? Help? lol

  6. #86
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    No wire swapping should be necessary. Especially inside the motor unit.

    I would suggest restoring the wiring to factory, inside and outside the PERC motor.

    Mechanically, it has been a looong time since I last actually worked on an electric reverse model. Someone more familar should be able to advise on how the mechanical linkage is supposed to go together.

  7. #87
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Well that's just it the wires WERE reversed from when I replaced the motor last year. I verified it against the wiring diagram last night. Again everything was working just bueno last night, now today it's even worse. I just don't get it.

  8. #88
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    It appears that the plastic arm between the actuator and the reverse bucket was installed backwards, and when I reinstalled the motor I didn't put it on straight /facepalm. Details are important lol

    I have also ordered a new TPS, as I noticed that this is idling at like 3000 RPM so it takes off like a shot in the water when you start it. It's way too fast at idle. I do not see any other reason this would be happening, so I suspect my TPS needs to be replaced. I am hoping this resolves the bogging at throttle as well.

  9. #89
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Aaaaand I just realized when I swapped the wires to fix the reverse, I only swapped one pair of wires, and there are two pairs /facepalm.

  10. #90
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Sounds like you are making progress, keep at it


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