Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 36
  1. #21
    martincom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    1,011
    +1
    103
    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    After the lake trials, I can use advice with a water leak. For the short amount of time it was in the water (wasn't even taken off the trailer for more than a few minutes, in fact), there sure was a lot of water in the hull. I will take any advice or guidance or wisdom on that. Through hull seal or bearing maybe? I couldn't find the source of the leak though. Yes, the drain plugs were installed
    If it was backfiring, which is somewhat common when the EMM needs to be rebuilt, check the plastic exhaust resonator(s). The backfires will quite often split their seams. Since they're usually below the waterline, the hull will take on water quickly. Murphy's Law applies---it will be the seam at the outside of the hull, the one you can't see, that splits.

  2. #22
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Lawton, OK
    Posts
    599
    I received it not running so I don’t know if it was backfiring. Due to the fact that the previous owner took a grinder to the EMM (yikes!) it may be a good idea for me to take the exhaust out and check all the through-hulls. Everything else looks really solid but who knows what crazy stuff they were doing with it. I need to replace the PERC motor anyway so win-win.


  3. #23
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,831
    +1
    1,932
    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ... take the exhaust out ...
    The resonators tucked into each side of the hull may be stuck in position. If they are a struggle to remove it might be easier to just pressure test them in place. If each one can hold a static air pressure (just a few PSI is plenty) then they are good.

    Before all that, first run it on the trailer with the seat off. Then you can look around. The water leak source might become apparent.

  4. #24
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Lawton, OK
    Posts
    599
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    The resonators tucked into each side of the hull may be stuck in position. If they are a struggle to remove it might be easier to just pressure test them in place. If each one can hold a static air pressure (just a few PSI is plenty) then they are good.

    Before all that, first run it on the trailer with the seat off. Then you can look around. The water leak source might become apparent.
    That’s actually what I did, I wanted to check for leaks before taking it off the trailer but the water came in too fast to see where it came from.

  5. #25
    martincom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    1,011
    +1
    103
    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    That’s actually what I did, I wanted to check for leaks before taking it off the trailer but the water came in too fast to see where it came from.
    Did you check for hull flooding with it backed into the water, on the trailer, floating up off the trailer, without the engine running?

    If it doesn't leak then, it would likely be something in the engine cooling circuit. The same leaks would show up when connected to garden hose/flush kit. Here in MN, where the winter temps are well below freezing, I often find the gasket pushed out of the stator cooling housing/cover. This results when they are stored in freezing temps without the bow being elevated. With the bow down, residual cooling water collects in the stator housing cooling passage, freezes, and pushes out the gasket. This wouldn't be a real fast leak, so I'm thinking, by your description, it is not the case in your instance. Again, this would show up with the garden hose test.

    If the resonator seams are split, this will show up without the engine running, while floating.

  6. +1 by:


  7. #26
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Lawton, OK
    Posts
    599
    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    Did you check for hull flooding with it backed into the water, on the trailer, floating up off the trailer, without the engine running?

    If it doesn't leak then, it would likely be something in the engine cooling circuit. The same leaks would show up when connected to garden hose/flush kit. Here in MN, where the winter temps are well below freezing, I often find the gasket pushed out of the stator cooling housing/cover. This results when they are stored in freezing temps without the bow being elevated. With the bow down, residual cooling water collects in the stator housing cooling passage, freezes, and pushes out the gasket. This wouldn't be a real fast leak, so I'm thinking, by your description, it is not the case in your instance. Again, this would show up with the garden hose test.

    If the resonator seams are split, this will show up without the engine running, while floating.
    Hmm, now that you mention it I did have the engine running. I had intended to test it as you described and in my excitement to hear it running I botched that up. Good call though.

    So, next weekend after my next round of repairs I will take it back out to the lake and retest for leaks before doing anything else.

    Actually, it just occurred to me I have a garden hose quick disconnect set I need to install, so maybe I will try that first.

    On an unrelated note, It also just occurred to me that I did the compression test wrong. I forgot to do WOT while testing, that's why the 95 result I got was bugging me. It's been a while can you tell? LOL

  8. #27
    martincom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    1,011
    +1
    103
    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    Hmm, now that you mention it I did have the engine running. I had intended to test it as you described and in my excitement to hear it running I botched that up. Good call though.

    So, next weekend after my next round of repairs I will take it back out to the lake and retest for leaks before doing anything else.

    Actually, it just occurred to me I have a garden hose quick disconnect set I need to install, so maybe I will try that first.

    On an unrelated note, It also just occurred to me that I did the compression test wrong. I forgot to do WOT while testing, that's why the 95 result I got was bugging me. It's been a while can you tell? LOL
    I always had trouble with the engine side of those garden hose couplers leaking. So I do not leave them in place.

  9. #28
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,831
    +1
    1,932
    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ... I have a garden hose quick disconnect set I need to install, so maybe I will try that first.

    ... I did the compression test wrong. I forgot to do WOT while testing ...
    On the Ficht engines it doesn’t matter as much whether the throttle lever is held wide open during compression testing. The throttle plates actually have holes that allow air flow even with the throttle ‘closed’. No harm in redoing the test, but if the numbers don;t change much, you will know why.

    When using a garden hose to cool the engine on land, the normal recommendation is to start the engine first, then start the hose water flowing.

  10. #29
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Lawton, OK
    Posts
    599
    Thanks everyone for the tips and advice, I’m still plugging away at this. Today was going through all of the wiring and untangling the engine bay then final mounting of the EMM. Trailer rewired with new lights. Repaired a rather large tear in the outer bumper (is it called a gunwale or something like that). Got waaaay too hot to continue, here’s what’s left:
    • before lake test
    • reverse motor replaced
    • steering cable lubed
    • lake test
    • find water leak
    • ride test
    • after lake test
    • put garden hose quick disconnect on
    • fuel pressure regulator upgrade
    • finish new seat covers

  11. #30
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,831
    +1
    1,932
    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ...
    • before lake test
    • ...
    • lake test
    • ...
    • after lake test
    • ...
    • fuel pressure regulator upgrade
    • ...
    you are making a bet that the pressure regulator does not fail during the lake test?

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2003 Genesis i Project
    By tenjuna in forum Polaris Projects
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-01-2019, 03:51 PM
  2. 2003 Polaris Genesis
    By jre457 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-10-2017, 05:59 AM
  3. 2003 Genesis I problems
    By Jackson.bottoms4 in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-03-2015, 08:14 AM
  4. 2003 Genesis I 1200
    By dcannaday in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-26-2012, 11:18 PM
  5. 2003 Genesis I
    By Shokr in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 41
    Last Post: 12-30-2008, 05:19 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •