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  1. #131
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    I will say first of all that I have surprised myself with how patient I have been with this project. Normally when things get as problematic as this thing has been, I walk away and try something else. For whatever reason, I am determined to see this thing through. Having said that, this thing is possessed or at the very least has a poltergeist that is having a lot of fun messing with me.

    I did the oil tank mod (which worked amazingly well thank you), replaced the water temp sensor, and torqued down those flywheel cover bolts, went through everything again. Engine was running great, compression fine, all ready to go. So I took it out on the lake yesterday, and FINALLY all seemed sorted and I actually got to ride it for the first time in 18 months since I got the thing.

    For 5 minutes.

    I had just got comfortable with giving WOT a try when all the sudden the familiar ENGINE OVERHEAT shows up and it starts running rough. I was in the middle of the lake, but I am pretty sure they heard my scream of woe on Mars. I pull the seat and not only is it hot as Hades, IT WAS FULL OF WATER. Now I had leak checked it extensively before I took it off the trailer, so you can imagine my WTF-ness I am sure.

    Anywho, I wasn't about to paddle for three hours to get back to the dock so I limped my way back, got it on the trailer, pulled it out and parked it so I could try to assess the problem and the damage. The first place I looked was the inlet hose since that was where it had failed twice before, and sure enough it came off again. My guess is that going to WOT is putting enough pressure into the line that it expands the hose and is making it slip off the fitting. The hose is very pliable and normally I would have replaced it already but I can't find one at all. I got mad last night and put two clamps on that sucker and was thinking of trying it again today but I am pretty sure it's going to pop off again.

    Anyone know where I can get part number 5411835-100 or have a non-OEM solution that I can rely on? As far as I know, this is the only thing keeping me from being done. Until something else fails anyway lol.

    EDIT: I actually found a hose, it is on the way. Moral of the story: free jet skis are definitely NOT free lol.
    Last edited by tenjuna; 07-12-2020 at 07:09 AM.

  2. #132
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ... the familiar ENGINE OVERHEAT ... not only is it hot as Hades, IT WAS FULL OF WATER. ...
    Was the bilge pump shooting water out the hull fitting on the rear?

    One thing I do not like about the factory Polaris bilge pump is the location of the water exit. Directly behind the seat and aimed out the back means the rider cannot see/notice when the bilge pump begins pumping water out.

    On my Polaris I did not bother to change the factory water exit location, but in hindsight I should have.

    On my current watercraft I mounted the bilge pump water exit on the side so I could more easily notice the water suddenly streaming out.



    Some PWC have mounted the bilge exit on the side of the upper hull just forward of the footwell where the water exit flow can be seen even while looking forward. Knowing when the bilge pump begins pumping water is at least as important as having a bilge pump at all. When the water starts coming out, that is your heads up that something needs attention. The sooner you realize the bilge pump is moving water, the better!

    IIRC the bilge pump and the main water feed hose on Polaris watercraft are 3/4 inch inside diameter reinforced rubber hose, often sold at automotive parts stores as heater hose. Sold by the foot, in whatever length you need.

    The factory bilge pump on Polaris is a Rule brand bilge pump rated for 360 GPH (gallons per hour). My perspective is that is not really enough flow. Rule does make a 500 gph pump that is an exact size fit replacement for the 360 pump. That seems like an excellent upgrade option and would also compensate for the added hose length if you relocate the bilge exit forward on the hull.

    If you install the 500 gph Rule pump I suggest changing the 3 amp fuse for the bilge pump to a 5 amp fuse. The factory 3 amp fuse will ‘work’ but the 5 amp fuse would provide a bit of ‘electrical headroom’.

    Tip: When I work on other people’s watercraft I often find the bilge pump suction inlet on the bottom is clogged with cruft and debris. It is important that the hull interior be kept clean so the bilge pump does not clog when incoming water floats and swirls the debris in the bilge


  3. #133
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    I am very happy to report that the new cooling hoses definitely solved the rest of the issues and that I am now done with this project! Put it on the lake and everything (finally) works as it should with no need to use a bucket to bail out lol. There is still a small steady stream of water coming in, which makes the bilge kick on every minute or so.

    Free ski taken in on trade for a rusty pew-pew I also got for free...approximately $1300 or so spent getting it back to water-ready status, plus another $300 or so in various tools and supplies as I started with nothing. It would have cost more to buy a comparable ski all sorted out, and I got to tinker for 18 months so totally worth it. Could have done without the aggravation at the end, but that's Polaris for you lol. I think my next ski is going to be a new one though, I have an itch for a 300 hp monster.

    A tip of the hat to all of you for helping, I couldn't have possibly gotten this done without you.

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    Last edited by tenjuna; 07-26-2020 at 07:34 AM.

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  5. #134
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ... the new cooling hoses definitely solved the rest of the issues and that I am now done with this project! ...

    ... There is still a small steady stream of water coming in, which makes the bilge kick on every minute or so.

    ... I have an itch for a 300 hp monster.

    ...

    You know what my advice would be regarding the source of the remaining water leak(s). Better to not rely on the bilge pump all the time

    Happy to see you are happy with the results of your project!


    Regarding your next PWC, I will mention that we no longer own any Polaris watercraft. Today we ride a pair of 2017 Yamaha GP1800 SVHO, slightly modified, which are probably around 300hp. Completely different experience in terms of acceleration. Top speed numbers are higher, of course, but it is the acceleration that really impresses.

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  7. #135
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    I’m done working on it in any case, I’ve lost the enthusiasm I had for the project. Yamaha SVHO is what I’ve had my eye on, and coming from you that’s probably the best recommendation I could hope for.

  8. #136
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ... Yamaha SVHO is what I’ve had my eye on ...
    SVHO is the engine.

    Yamaha sells that engine in the GP1800 hull and in the FX hull. Apparently the new-for-2019 FX hull is getting mixed reviews, and it is different from the 2018 and older FX hull. If you are buying new, I have yet to ride the new FX model myself.

    The now discontinued FZR model also used the SVHO engine.

    GP1800 SVHO I know well, we have over 250 hours on each.

    If buying used, stick with SVHO engines of 2016 and later. Prior to 2016 some SVHO engines had issues with the timing chains failing.

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