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  1. #121
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    Anyone happen to know any tricks on getting the two screws out for changing the thermostat?

    I have bent two allen wrenches trying to get them out and they just will not budge. Tried penetrating oil, a little leery of using a torch on it.

    ...
    Be careful with those two bolts that hold the thermostat housing together. Long stainless steel bolts with fine threads are easily broken.

    Use a ratchet driver tip of the correct size (is it metric or inch size?) that provides a properly snug fit.

    Do you just want to inspect the thermostat internals or do you have replacement parts on hand? There is a rubber o-ring (has a figure 8 shape), a plastic pressure valve tip and the thermostat itself, seated in a rubber seal.

    If you can remove the water manifold from the engine you may find it easier to soak the thermostat bolts in penetrant from the sides and from the bottom (I think the bolt holes are open from underneath). I typically use PB Blaster or Kroil for this sort of thing.

    Torch heat can be used, very very carefully. Or electric heat gun, but I have had rare sucess using gentle heat. A more rapid heating using a focussed torch seems to help crack the corrosion bond between the stainless bolt and the aluminum. Risk is cooking the rubber and plastic parts inside. If you have new parts on hand, all the better.

    Alternative method is to dip the end of the manifold into near boiling water for a minute or two, then let it fully cool. Do that a few times, air dry, then apply penetrant.

    Let the penetrant work, reapply every few hours. Firm but 'calibrated' hammer taps on the bolt heads and manifold sides near the bolts can help the penetrant seep in. Just don't crack the cast aluminum.

    Alternate between loosening torque and tightening torque. Sometimes it can take a few cycles before you detect and actual movement. Even when it starts to loosen, continue with the back and forth torque until the bolt is clearly 'loose enough'.

  2. #122
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips! I had some unexpected health issues come up the last two weeks that affected my vision, so I have had to put this on hold. I am expecting to be back to normal in a week or two so will give this a try then.

  3. #123
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Well I think the craft may have died an unfortunate death. I took it to the lake to do a leak check and let it run a bit, and one of my friends inexplicably decided to jump on it and go WOT across the lake 5 seconds after I told him to leave it on the trailer to run. Then the idiot calls me to tell me the hull is full of water (omfg) THEN decides to run it WOT all the way back across the lake while I am trying to drive to where he was.

    By the time he got back the engine was ridiculously hot (the leak was the inlet hose came off from the hull end), the check engine light was on saying ENGINE OVERHEAT, it was running terribly (after it started beautifully 10 minutes prior). After I lost my mind and a friend, I let the ski (and me) cool down. I put it back in the water and now it just keeps saying ENGINE OVERHEAT. I pulled the water temp sensor out and it keeps saying that.

    Sounds like the sensor is burned up...anyone have any better ideas? I am just hoping the engine isn't toast, but at this point I am pretty sure it is due to the rough way it is running now. Unreal.

  4. #124
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    After all your hard work--that's just a shame.

    Well, let's not throw the towel in just yet. The defective sensor is going to result in the EMM being locked in SLOW mode, which will limit RPMs. It well also skew the injection ratio, which could account for the poor run condition.

    First, I'd perform a compression test of each cylinder. That'll provide an indication of whether the engine itself suffered critical damage.

  5. #125
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    After all your hard work--that's just a shame.

    Well, let's not throw the towel in just yet. The defective sensor is going to result in the EMM being locked in SLOW mode, which will limit RPMs. It well also skew the injection ratio, which could account for the poor run condition.

    First, I'd perform a compression test of each cylinder. That'll provide an indication of whether the engine itself suffered critical damage.
    Ah yes of course, thank you sir. I was feeling a bit lost on what to even try next, that was exactly what I needed to refocus. I am having trouble locating a new temp sensor, so I am going to take my chances with a used part off ebay.

    I also discovered that the oil float level unit was popped out of the tank. I ran some oil out of the tank to make sure no water got in, and I have a new unit on the way as well.

    I really thought I was going to finally get to ride this thing yesterday lol. Not to be, my truck also suffered a catastrophic failure of the steering system as I was pulling the ski out of the water too, just not my day. Steering wheel going to the left, left wheel going straight, right wheel going to the right. No obvious damage, but obviously something major broke. *sigh*

  6. #126
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    I also discovered that the oil float level unit was popped out of the tank. I ran some oil out of the tank to make sure no water got in, and I have a new unit on the way as well.
    If you can, cancel your order for the oil level sending unit. That is a known issue with Polaris PWCs. While it is uncommon for them to actually come out, it is not for them to leak like EXCESSIVELY. I pull a couple of O-rings, from my metric assortment, and add them to the body of the sending unit, between the rubber "lands". It is a bit of a challenge getting the sending unit back into the tank neck with the O-rings in place. So definitely a job with the tank on the work bench. I then add a gear clamp around the tank neck.


  7. #127
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    If you can, cancel your order for the oil level sending unit. That is a known issue with Polaris PWCs. While it is uncommon for them to actually come out, it is not for them to leak like EXCESSIVELY. I pull a couple of O-rings, from my metric assortment, and add them to the body of the sending unit, between the rubber "lands". It is a bit of a challenge getting the sending unit back into the tank neck with the O-rings in place. So definitely a job with the tank on the work bench. I then add a gear clamp around the tank neck.
    Excellent advice, thank you again! Order cancelled, and I will give that a try.

    By the way, I fired the engine up last night and it appears to run fine. It does still say engine overheat so definitely need to replace the sensor. Also found a melted coil wire (or could just be the wire cover, haven't dug too far into that yet). Have not tested compression yet, but I couldn't help popping it off to satisfy my curiosity.
    Last edited by tenjuna; 07-05-2020 at 07:15 AM.

  8. #128
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Just thought of another question. During Friday's odyssey, one of the things I noticed before the guy jumped on the ski and took off was that the bolts on the what I refer to as the stator cover were loose. I am not sure if it is actually a stator cover, but it is where the water inlet is at the front of the engine, as well as the outlet running to the EMM. In any case, water was running out by the bottom bolts. I could have sworn I had checked those last year so I was a bit surprised when I had to tighten them again. Should I be concerned about 1) water coming out (meaning should that space be filled with water or might I have an internal leak) and 2) the bolts keep coming loose should I do anything with those? A little advice there would be appreciated.

    Another by the way, after I put the inlet hose back on the hull end fitting, I did check the pisser and warm water was coming out, so I assume that the cooling system is working. I still have not been able to change the thermostat and popoff as I cannot get the two bolts off.

  9. #129
    martincom's Avatar
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    I am not sure if it is actually a stator cover, but it is where the water inlet is at the front of the engine, as well as the outlet running to the EMM.
    There is actually a second cover, that is placed over the actual stator cover, that forms a cooling water jacket for the stator. You can double check the service manual, but most of the engine bolts require some flavor of Loctite during assembly. Typically, I'll run an appropriate size tap though each as well as a die over the bolts to clean any old Loctite and/or corrosion from the threads. This provides for full seating of the fastener and accurate tightening torque.

    If your watercraft is stored in freezing temperatures, it is very important that it be stored with the bow upward. If the bow is down, residual cooling water will puddle in the stator cooling jacket. When it freezes, it will expand. I've never seen damage to the covers, but quite often the freezing will force out the gasket between the two stator covers, creating a pretty significant cooling water leak.

    So you may want to check for evidence of that and replace the gasket if so.

  10. #130
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Ok I will do that as well. The leak stopped after tightening the bolts but that's cheap enough to replace the gasket anyway.

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