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  1. #111
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Oh I see what you’re saying...ugh I should have stuck with a Virage lol.

    well I will just stick with a leak test at the lake then.


  2. #112
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    ...

    well I will just stick with a leak test at the lake then.
    Leaks can come from ‘weird’ places, not just the obvious things (Driveshaft through-hull Seals, transom fittings)

    Like the speedometer pitot fitting right under the driveshaft. Plastic fitting has flat rubber washer to seal it to the underside of the hull. And then a tiny nipple on top for the thin clear hose that goes up to the MFI dash. Hard to see a leak down there. I have even found the speedo tube worn through somewhere under the engine, creating a constant water dribble while riding.

    Or the steering cable hull fitting.

    Leaks around the exhaust exit hull fitting can also Be hard to see.


    Take a bright LED flash light.

    Take your time. The engine is not going to over heat as long as the jet pump is pumping lake water.


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  4. #113
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Steering cable leak


    Once you have verified that there are no leaks, no hot spots, all seems good. Then you can do a power on test, still strapped to the trailer.



    Not that at higher power levels the jet pump may struggle to hold onto the water so the engine can sound ‘weird’ as the impeller cavitates and/or ventilates (air bubbles getting drawn in).

    When actually riding at speed the forward hull motion helps feed water into the jet pump

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  6. #114
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    I just bought an inspection camera that I can attach to my iphone so I can get better views, it'll be here tomorrow morning so I will make a day of it.

    I finished up all of the work last night, the ski is as done as it is going to get until after the leak is chased out. I suspect I am going to see water coming through the steering fitting just based on it getting banged around during the actuator arm mistake. I am prepared to buy a new cable but I am going to wait and see.

    I am also going to replace the popoff valve and thermostat as a "just in case" measure if they ever decide to get delivered.

    After that I am getting the hood and fairing re-painted, new floor mats put in, as well as new seat covers. Found a great deal on those at iboats.com.

    Also found a halfway decent used OEM cover for $100. I think I may change the color scheme on the craft to match. Haven't decided if I want to keep it burgundy and gray yet.


  7. #115
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Welp I got myself some bright lights and out here on a bright sunny day and it took me less than a minute to figure out where the leak was. Hose was hiding under the engine which is why I didn’t notice it before. Ugh another parts order on the way.

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  8. #116
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenjuna View Post
    Welp I got myself some bright lights and out here on a bright sunny day and it took me less than a minute to figure out where the leak was. Hose was hiding under the engine which is why I didn’t notice it before. Ugh another parts order on the way.

    Under the engine - that where all the lost tools and small parts are kept ...

  9. #117
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Lol exactly. This is why I bought the camera that attaches to my iphone and ipad. It was plain as day once I was actually able to see it.

    Here is a link to it, it was super cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  10. #118
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Edit: nvm I am just blind: 7052156

  11. #119
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    Anyone happen to know any tricks on getting the two screws out for changing the thermostat? I have bent two allen wrenches trying to get them out and they just will not budge. Tried penetrating oil, a little leery of using a torch on it.

    Beyond that the ski runs great now, just need to do a final leak check to see where I am on that now. I still need to figure out what to do on the stiff steering; I really don't want to change the cable but it seems that's where I am with it. Beyond that is all aesthetic stuff: fixing the cover, painting the hood and fairing, new seat cover, and new floor mats.

  12. #120
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    Try an electric heat gun. No open flame and they can reach 1000F. After you heat it up, alternate between loosening & tightening. I'm surprised you didn't snap the bolts off verses bending the hex bit of the socket. Don't get too carried away heating it up, there is a plastic washer that you could melt, so focus your heating on the lower area of the threaded boss projection.

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