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  1. #1

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    weak/no spark 2001 virage tx1200

    Ran great a few weekends ago but since has been running on two cylinders with top rpm at 5000.
    Found a loose ground wire and tightened that and out of water all spark plugs showed good spark. Dropped back in water and two cylinders again.
    I have spark in center and rear cylinders but nothing in front cylinder. I do get some intermittent spark from the first cylinder but it is very hit or miss.
    Found battery terminal wire had a 12awg ring with only about 1/3 of ground wire connected to ring. Fixed that and still no spark in front cylinder.
    Couple other things, the start/stop switch doesn't stop the engine. lanyard kill switch works and is how we stop the engine. Solenoid looks to be the black with metal mounting. I opened the electrical and shows some corrosion.
    I have done some forum searches and read a ton but still looking for that aha moment on what it could be.
    Thanks in advance for your help.
    Last edited by jstrand23; 07-14-2019 at 03:32 PM.

  2. #2

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    Update

    Update.
    I tested a few things and here is what I found.
    Tested spark plug cables and all were within specs.
    Tested ignition coil and all tested about .8 ohms. From another post they should be .35? Is this too high?
    Tested stator and that tested good.
    Noticed that solenoid was different from original black with metal plate. Probably not the right part so took it off and ordered the new part.
    Since the start/stop button doesn't work to stop the engine, I also ordered a new lr505.
    When I had the electrical box open, I saw that the red/purple wires were not plugged into red/purple but had been changed to Orange and the orange connection. Do I leave that to orange? or plug back into the red/purple?

    Jason

  3. #3

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    Jul 2019
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    Hey Jasoni have a 2000 slx 1200 which our skis have the same motor. I'm having the almost exact same issue. My start stop button does work. Took it out the first time this June and misfire in the front cylinder. I've replaced and put in an aftermarket cdi box 2 yrs ago that fixed my first spark issue then and now 2 yrs later I have another spark issue just like your having. You say your stator tests good so I'm thinking we have bad cdi boxes. Cdi box tells the coil when to spark the plugs. My red/purple wires are plugged in together. Did you find anything else that would help with our issue?

  4. #4
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstrand23 View Post
    Update.
    I tested a few things and here is what I found.
    Tested spark plug cables and all were within specs.
    Tested ignition coil and all tested about .8 ohms. From another post they should be .35? Is this too high?
    Tested stator and that tested good.
    Noticed that solenoid was different from original black with metal plate. Probably not the right part so took it off and ordered the new part.
    Since the start/stop button doesn't work to stop the engine, I also ordered a new lr505.
    When I had the electrical box open, I saw that the red/purple wires were not plugged into red/purple but had been changed to Orange and the orange connection. Do I leave that to orange? or plug back into the red/purple?

    Jason
    Test the voltage going into the ignition coil on all 3 cylinders.
    The LR should fix your 1 button stop/start issues.
    As long as LR works,leave CDI power on Orange terminal.

  5. #5

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    I'll know more after parts arrive this week. I'll check the voltage of the ignition coil. Do you know what the values should be?
    I'm really hoping it's not the cdi box but sadly it probably will be.

  6. #6

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    Parts arrived and I had a small window of free time to install them. I installed the new solenoid. I also bought a new electrical conector for the two wires, yellow/red and black, that were connected to the the old solenoid. I also installed the new LR505. That was a tough one as the orange wire wasn't long enough on the new one to be installed correctly so I flipped it upside down and was able to still ground and get it hooked up. Got it all back together and hooked up the battery and . . . nothing.
    Bilge pump works but nothing on the display. I hooked the old lr505 back up and still nothing on the display. After a long day on a roof, the mosquitos came out in full force and I was done for the night and back to the message boards to keep searching for the fix.
    Did I possibly switch the yellow/red and black wires in the new connector for the solenoid? Any help would be appreciated.

  7. #7

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    Switches wires on solenoid connector and again have nothing from start button. Crosses solenoid posts and it turned over. Is it a bad connector? Can I put an eye on wires and hook yellow/red on positive of solenoid and black on ground? As that's how it was on old solenoid.


  8. #8
    casey67's Avatar
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    If the LR was a direct replacement-there should not be a difference in wires.

    ? solenoid?? You need to be more precise with your descriptions.
    The yel/red comes from the Start button. Press the button=12v goes to the starter solenoid.
    The blk/wht wire goes to the LR. When the LR does not see that it is running=it supplies ground for the blk/wht wire, but I think that signal goes through the MFI display-the MFI needs to be plugged in.

  9. #9

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    So this may be my problem. On my old solenoid, I had the two red wires, one from the battery and one to the starter. I also had a yellow/red and a black/white split off from the bundle and each had an eyelet on them. The yellow/red eyelet was on one side of the solenoid and the black/white eyelet was on the bolt that connected the solenoid to the jetski. Am I to understand that both of those wires should actually be running to the electrical box and not directly to the solenoid? I also got a plug for the solenoid that I thought both of those wires were to connect to.
    Also, the new LR box i got was not OEM (read cheaper) from amazon, hence the orange wire is short and doesn't reach.

  10. #10
    casey67's Avatar
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    Red going to the starter is called a cable-much larger then a wire. It should also have a cable running to the battery, on that solenoid stud will be a small red wire that runs to the electrical box. That red wire supplies all the power to the electrical box and entire electrical system.

    The second part of the solenoid is the 2 small wires that should go to a 1 peice connecter (from the factory)
    The basic solenoid design was used on Ford cars and other equipement like snow plows, they might have small threaded studs for attaching small wires. Those solenoids are probably too heavy for a PWC, don't use it.

    The original Polaris solenoid is bolted to a fiberglass panel.(no wires on mounting bolte)If they had blk/wht to a MOUNTING bolt -it would need another wire running to ground to work. That would BYPASS the LR, and probably keep LR from shutting off the engine with the button.
    The blk/wht works as the ground wire when conditions are right to engage the solenoid/starter and crank over the engine.

    I don't recall if yel/red litterally goes to electrical box-it needs to have 12v when you press the start button-inspect to make sure it's not hacked up. yel/red circuit isn't complicated/doesn't usually have issues, so usually isn't hacked up.

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