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  1. #1

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    Circuit Breaker On Box Popping

    It's clear I have a short somewhere, but I'm wondering if there's a common place of failure for these shorts to show up.

    Workin on my 98 pro 785. Ran fine on the trailer, dropped it in the water to run it, everything was dead. Came back the "press to reset" button on the ebox was up.

    Just looking for some advice before I start shooting in the dark.

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Find the Red/Purple wire that goes to the magneto stator, via a cable bundle that runs to the front of the engine. Disconnect just that Red/Purple wire. See if the circuit breaker (aka Reset Button) now behaves.

    If the disconnection solves the problem, either the stator coil for battery charging is shorted to ground, OR there is a problem with the LR voltage regulator module. LR module controls battery charging via the stator Yellow wire, which is the other end of the coil from Red/Purple.

    In the Polaris system there is full battery voltage feeding the stator charging coil all the time, even when engine is not running. That full battery voltage flows through the coil to Yellow, and arrives at the LR module.

    When you have the electrical box open make sure the shell does not short to the battery posts. Look for signs of corrosion or wires crushed in the box seam or pressed/forced against another terminal.

  3. #3

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    LR module sounds like it could be a winner, this thing has had problems getting on the pipes and as soon as I let off of them it gets boggy, sometimes until I can get the pump out of the water and get it to rev. I thought it was loading up and the free rev was drying out the plugs, but from my searching it looks like it's possible the LR module could cause the same thing too. Maybe it's been limping around for a while and it finally died and is shorting out. I should be able to check in a few hours, thanks for the quick response, love this place.

  4. #4

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    Red/Purple didn't seem to do it. Still pops. Nothing inside seems crushed but, I bought this thing from a complete idiot on pwcyesterday and someone thought it was a good idea to rotate the ebox 90 degrees so some of the wires were on the bottom of the boat. I think I'll check the start/stop switch next, then I might have to pop the flywheel and check continuity between the box and the stator, unless anyone else has good ideas.

    There could be rubbing in the front with the wires. I thought they were clear when I installed it, but the genius I bought this from thought the timing was so screwed up he rotated the timing plate, a lot, and had to extend the stator wires. There's a good chance something is wrong there, I just think it's odd it went from running well to nothing so quickly.

    EDIT: I haven't done that much electrical stuff. I just need to unplug things one by one from the box and see what triggers the breaker, right? Is there anything I can unplug that can damage anything when applying voltage?

    I do have the service manual and I am looking over everything. So I don't need to be babysat but I haven't really done electrical stuff before so I'm nervous.
    Last edited by sdlvx; 07-12-2019 at 02:07 PM.

  5. #5

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    I uploaded the wiring diagram. I put red marks where I think I can disconnect things to see what I can remove to stop the breaker from popping. That's the right thing to do, right?

    I am going to check the breaker itself when I get some time. I saw K447's post here (http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=251283), saying the breaker can go bad if the dome is missing. When I bought this thing the dome was missing, but it washed up in the bottom of the boat. I have some spare ones floating around, shouldn't be a problem. Probably will have some time thursday or so. I'll keep updating the thread so people who search can figure this out. I am new to electronics and have been mostly doing the software side of computer stuff so I am overly cautious about breaking things. Hopefully this thread can help someone out later with diagnosing electrical issues.
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  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdlvx View Post

    I uploaded the wiring diagram. I put red marks where I think I can disconnect things to see what I can remove to stop the breaker from popping. That's the right thing to do, right?
    ...
    As long as you donít short circuit other things while messing around in the electrical box, disconnecting items is just fine.

    Keep in mind that the electrical box is cast aluminum (despite being black) on many models. So do not allow the metal shell of the electrical box to touch the battery posts.

    There are only a handful of places a properly wired electrical box sends battery voltage. Most are Red/Purple (as you can see from your marked diagram). But battery voltage also appears on the yellow wire group, when engine is off.

    One of the first things you should do is eyeball every single colored wire and make sure it is actually connected to the correct marked terminal group on the terminal board.

    Some Black wires have a ring termination and are supposed to be grounded via a metal screw. Make sure all the black wires go to where they are supposed to go to;

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  8. #7

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    Well fuck, I found the problem. The flywheel was "lightened" and the main disk that holds onto the part with the gears separated and the flywheel was flopping around and grinding against the stator.



    That's the worst part. I guess it took me a little too long to diagnose this, I should have noticed earlier but these things load up so easily when starting them it's easy to flood. It was acting like I was starting it wrong.

    The other flywheel is toast, there's a lot of slop between the two parts, and the inside is beat up pretty bad.

    I have a spare flywheel, the old one says

    F4T206 7x01 78Z88 (or 9
    The spare says
    F4t206 9x01 78Z99

    I have a stator that looks identical but I can't find any markings. I got them from xlint when I drove out there if he is around.

    Looking at parts numbers it looks like I can use the flywheel and stator if it's from a 99 or something with the same CDI at least. As long as it's from a pro and not a 97.

    Here's a pic of the good stator I have.



    Looking on ebay it sure doesn't look like a 750 or 780 stator. What a bummer, hope it didn't take anything else out on the way, like the CDI.
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