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  1. #1

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    Purchased two 2002 GTX DI

    Hi new member here. I asked about buying these on different forums Iím a member of and they said to buy them. I found them on my Facebook marketplace. The seller wanted 1250 for them with the double trailer. He also stated that they would not fire, but were not locked up. He was just tired of working on them. Well I took a chance and bought them for 1200.

    Ive been reading and pretty much what Iíve gathered is I need to check compression, then spark, then fuel. Right now Iím charging the batteries.

    My my question is should I continue to try and get these running again or just flip them. I figured at the price I got them for it was worth the gamble with the triton aluminum trailer..
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  2. #2
    Team Bilford's Avatar
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    "he was tired of working on them" is the key statement that may tell you everything. I have an 03 XP DI that IMO is the greatest ski ever. I love the DI motor and in 16 years, the only part that I have replaced was a voltage regulator last year. That being said, most knowledgeable riders will stay away from a DI. They are great when they run, but impossible for the best gearhead to repair without proper tools and software. They are orphans and very very few dealers have a clue. They won't even look at it. BRP no longer has a relationship with Orbital. You can spend more money than they are worth in just a few hours of technician time.

    They fact that they don't run means that the sales price is nothing but a foolish tease. Don't fall for it unless you have DI training and tools. Fuel pumps are a common problem around 75 hours and cost about a grand if you can find them. Buying them as they are to flip would be an absolute fool's game.

    If they started, I would tell you to go for it, but they don't and may very well never run again.

  3. #3
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    I am very familiar with DI machines and will try to help out. You are on the right track by checking compression first. Also what do the spark plugs look like? That will also tell us how they were running.

  4. #4

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    Forgot the pictures.
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  5. #5

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    For some reason it deleted my post when editing. Well I finally had time this morning to go outside and take a closer look at the skis. Upon closer inspection I notice the plug wires removed and the spark plugs were barely screwed in on both skis. I screwed them back in finger tight to prevent any debris from possibly getting inside the heads. So now I hook up my jumper cables to the first ski. Get two beeps and hear the fuel pump prime. I hit the start button and it starts and runs. I pulled the dess key after 10-15 seconds and kill the machine. I was pretty stoked that if ran and went inside to grab my phone to take a video and tell my wife. Came back out and it started again effortlessly. I killed the motor again after a few seconds. The first ski had 118 hours.

    Now i I try the second ski. I get two beeps, but the fuel pump doesn’t prime. I scroll through the menu and the second ski had 119 hours. I try the starter just to make sure this ski will turn over. It did turn over, but didn’t try to start as it probably isn’t getting any fuel.

    Just was pretty excited that one fired and ran. I’m about to go back outside now and do compression test on both skis. Not sure how accurate my harbor freight tester will be. I may go rent one for a second opinion.

  6. #6
    Team Bilford's Avatar
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    That's awesome!
    Compression testing a 951 is not really accurate since the starter motor doesn't really spin them over fast enough. Have both plugs out, wires grounded on the posts next to the RAVE assemblies. Position wide open throttle to shut off fuel injection and take a reading and report back.

  7. #7

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    Well I couldn’t find my harbor freight compression tester. So I run to Oreilly’s and rent one. I tried the non running ski first and it’ll only go to 30 and immediately bleed off remaining pressure on the gauge. Tried the second cylinder, same results. So I go try on the running ski and get 30 on both of its cylinders. Sum it up I think that tester is hosed up. I then go rummaging around in my shop and find my tester. Go back to the non running ski and get almost 90 psi on both cylinders. Now to test the running ski and it too has 90 psi on both cylinders. I think that tester reads lower than the gauge states it to be. I bought it when I went to try out Yamaha 232 limited jet boat. The owner had paper work stating that both motors were within +-5% of each other. I recall the readings to be in the 160ish range. But when I used that harbor freight tester to verify his readings. I got 120 across all 8 cylinders. I guess I’m going to go return the rented tester and try another place. From what I’ve been reading 130psi would be what I should be getting.

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    stop jump starting!

    that's a problem making of the first degree!

    you did OK on them for $1200 as the supply of parts for orbital systems dry up a running pair of air injectors easily get $200, same with the fuel rail, the jet pump the mpem and so on. Seats look good another $200

    with some luck and hand holding here, you'll likely get one ski to run for a season or more, and still have parts to sell off in the end

    I figure the trailer is worth about $800

    an engine that is not windowed, and turns over easily is worth hundreds as a rebuildable core.

    the ski has its fans as NO seadoo dealer will touch them any more.

    one of the few two strokes I'll work on.

    If you see the MAINT lamp on, you are going to need a candoo ( $400) to figure out what's really wrong.

    at 118 hours they still have a couple of seasons left in em.

    only other downside is they call for the most expensive of two stroke injector oil

    people get tired of working on them quickly, as guesswork just quite do it on this particular model. you must have a code scanner to win!

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the reply @nmpeter. So looks like I’m going to have buy a battery first thing. I didn’t have the vehicle running that was supplying the jump. Hopefully no damage was done. Should I try to get the non running ski operable? I know that one needs steering and reverse cables replaced. The throttle cable also might need replacing as it is slow to return to idle position. Salt water skis.

    After reading these comments maybe since the one is running now. I just replace that battery and post them back up for sale. Idk yet. Like you said I’m ok at the moment.

  10. #10
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    in regards to the cables, obtain a motorcycle cable lube rig and see if you can force some lube into the cables. a DEKA/east penn16AH AGM battery is suggested ($100)

    most damage from jumping happens when you remove the cables, suddenly the skis alternator is asked to provide 110% of its output.

    its far easier to troubleshoot a DI if you don't have a scanner when you have know good parts

    avoid messing with the throttle cable at the throttle body end, you need a scanner to reset the TPS if you do that. take it off from the handlebar end and force some lube into it.

    when you can get it to run, put a water supply on it and post a video of a start up and a couple of revs. We'll let you know what's next. Get a good flashlight up the pump tunnel and inspect the entry to the jetpump

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