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  1. #11
    zr2czy's Avatar
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    *Corrected my miss use of verbiage. Yes, encoder or reluctor wheel.

    See below in red.

    Also just a side note if the crank was ever replaced with a different year I believe there was a split year part number for the 2006 cranks where the pins were in a different position in relation to TDC.. I believe late 2006 plus cranks are different than 2005 and older.


    Quote Originally Posted by darshanpatelh View Post
    I scenerio is similar to your however I bought it for cheap. I previous guy tried to rebuild it but gave up. he bought a new shortblovmck and a head and tried putting it together. I took it apart till the head to check everything and locked the crank and cam put it back together. I never opened the bottom up to check. questions now.
    1. Can I remove all. thing while the eng is in the Hull? May be possible, but definitely easier with the engine out of the hull there is one bolt in particular on the very corner of the PTO cover that is recessed that may be difficult if in the hull, not to mention the multiple sized bolts that hold the PTO on.
    2. if so can I remove the driveshaft without removing the jet jump assembly No. Pump will need to be removed to pull driveshaft.May be able to pull pump and leave driveshaft loose and slide motor to the bow when removing (sometimes driveshaft sieze to pump PTO bearings and/or top hat and make them difficult to remove.
    3. Can you please give me. more detail about the rectifier wheel? are you referring to the encoder wheel? if so what should I be setting it to? Yes. See correction above. Crank should have set pin that aligns the flywheel and encoder/reluctor wheel with the crank position.


    4. lastly, I still can't fire the spark plug 2 from candoo but can on 1 and 3. would that be a separate issue or related. Not sure on this one. I'd try all the aforementioned recommendations and ensure your cam sensor is plugged in.

    thanks for all you help. I appreciate it

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by zr2czy View Post
    *Corrected my miss use of verbiage. Yes, encoder or reluctor wheel.

    See below in red.

    Also just a side note if the crank was ever replaced with a different year I believe there was a split year part number for the 2006 cranks where the pins were in a different position in relation to TDC.. I believe late 2006 plus cranks are different than 2005 and older.

    Thank you very much for the information again. I really appreciate it. I think I will have to take it out and go through it.
    1. Do you know or have any references with the pin location differences handy? or can you tell me what i should search to get the idea in my head?

    2. Before I pull it out is there any i can check my firing sequence is in order with the crack. Like just have one sparkplug sitting on top of the head and crank and see when the spark happens. I am not sure if it will be too fast to see or that not going to be helpful!

    Thanks again.

  3. #13
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darshanpatelh View Post
    Thank you very much for the information again. I really appreciate it. I think I will have to take it out and go through it.
    1. Do you know or have any references with the pin location differences handy? or can you tell me what i should search to get the idea in my head?

    2. Before I pull it out is there any i can check my firing sequence is in order with the crack. Like just have one sparkplug sitting on top of the head and crank and see when the spark happens. I am not sure if it will be too fast to see or that not going to be helpful!

    Thanks again.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...te+model+crank. ����

  4. +1 by:


  5. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by psycho rxp View Post
    thanks very much

  6. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by psycho rxp View Post
    Hey guys Update from my end, I am in the process of pulling the engine t slowly. I managed to get the drive shaft out today and came to notice that what I thought was the crank sensor all along might be wrong. The wire comes from the bottom of the pto cover it looks like. from what i read so far, 04 -05 models have the crank sensor in the pto and 06 and above have them at the 8'0 clock position looking at the pto cover(correct). I have not taken the pto cover off yet(by tomorrow), but what can i check for to know for certain that WHAT year my pto cover is? and What year the engine internals are (crank?)

    If so in my case I could it be that the pto cover is from 04-05? and that is whats causing the ignition issue?
    The guy who i bought the ski form told me he got a new short block and a head and i couldn't start. But he didn't tell me any other info.

    If this is the case, can a later model pto cover be used with a 06 engine? or do i have to use the same year?

    Just wanted to get some feedback as I am tearing into it so I know what to look out for.



    Thank you for your help,
    Darshan

  7. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by darshanpatelh View Post
    Hey guys Update from my end, I am in the process of pulling the engine t slowly. I managed to get the drive shaft out today and came to notice that what I thought was the crank sensor all along might be wrong. The wire comes from the bottom of the pto cover it looks like. from what i read so far, 04 -05 models have the crank sensor in the pto and 06 and above have them at the 8'0 clock position looking at the pto cover(correct). I have not taken the pto cover off yet(by tomorrow), but what can i check for to know for certain that WHAT year my pto cover is? and What year the engine internals are (crank?)

    If so in my case I could it be that the pto cover is from 04-05? and that is whats causing the ignition issue?
    The guy who i bought the ski form told me he got a new short block and a head and i couldn't start. But he didn't tell me any other info.

    If this is the case, can a later model pto cover be used with a 06 engine? or do i have to use the same year?

    Just wanted to get some feedback as I am tearing into it so I know what to look out for.



    Thank you for your help,
    Darshan
    bump


    I managed to get the engine out and i looks like the encoder wheel was on the pin and to me the crankshaft looks like an 06. can someone please confirm this? also can someone please guide me what else i should look for because I am not sure what else to check at this point. everything checks.


    Thanks in advance.
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  8. #17
    That is NOT a 2006 crank. It is a 2005 or earlier crankshaft. This is why your engine wont run and why you are getting those faults.

    See this thread for more details.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=147773

  9. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    That is NOT a 2006 crank. It is a 2005 or earlier crankshaft.

    See this thread for more details.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=147773
    Thank you for the clarification. I was just on that thread to compare and i think i know the problem now. The thread only talks about moving the wheel CW on 06+ crankshaft in older blocks however doesn't say vice versa. Should i move the encoder wheel 2 bolts patterns CCW then?

    thank you,

  10. #19
    zr2czy's Avatar
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    Agreed. This is an earlier model crank. Hence the misfires and backfires.

  11. #20
    Hi Everyone, back with a conclusion to my question (partially ). This forum has been a great resource for all my questions and more and I thank you all for your help. As per the suggestion above, I moved the encoder wheel 2 bolt holes CCW. I put everything back together today and loosely connected the hoses and all to test fire. She started up right away with a a rough idle (more on that below). P0344 code went away and it was idling at 1700. I didn't have any water or coolant in the system so I quickly turned it off after 15 sec. Checked the ecu and only code that showed up was P0352.

    Now with I tested the coil 2 from my candoo to test fire it, and no joy. Moved the coils around and anything connected to 2nd coil connector doesn't fire. I checked to fuses and 12v to the plug. And continuity on the connector from ground to ecu on the harness. If there is anything else that I can test that I might have missed, can someone please advise me.

    I thank you again for all the help again. Cheers


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