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  1. #1

    2002 Polaris Freedom Strange Spark issue

    Hi All,

    I picked up a 2002 Polaris Freedom 700 with no spark when purchased, since buying it I picked up a fresh battery- Still no spark. I ended up taking off the front cover to find that the bolts that held on the stator were sheared off and trashed the stator. Put in a new/used stator, and replaced the crank seal while I had it apart because one of the studs were broken off in the block. I thought for sure that this was going to resolve my issue. But still no spark.

    Here's the strange thing. When I play with the kill switch by hand I get one spark when I release it or giggle it. So if I keep pulling it in and out quickly I get spark (intermittently). I then tried to put a jumper on the wires to bypass the switch but still no dice.


    Battery is putting out nearly 11volts when cranking.
    No difference if the bildge pump button is pressed (though the prior owner removed the bilge)

    thanks for your help, seems like a great group of folks around here.


  2. #2
    Not sure if this helps but here is a pic of the wiring. Appears there was a splice/repair done to the red/black to an orange wire. And two red/purple wires that go to nothing?
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  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnest View Post
    Not sure if this helps but here is a pic of the wiring. Appears there was a splice/repair done to the red/black to an orange wire. And two red/purple wires that go to nothing?
    There is a reason for that wiring arrangement.

    For diagnostics purposes, do the following;
    Remove entirely the Orange to a Red/Purple adapter wire piece. Disconnect both ends.

    Connect the now loose single Red/Purple wire into the bullet connector with the other two.

    See if you now have spark.

    Leave it wired like that until the ignition problem is reserved.

  4. #4
    Thank you for the reply. I did as advised and no spark yet.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnest View Post
    Thank you for the reply. I did as advised and no spark yet.
    Now you need to work through the no-spark red engine diagnostics process until you find the problem/fix.

    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

  6. #6
    Thank you for pointing me in the direction of diagnosing the problem. I just want to verify a couple things before I move forward.

    The way you had me hook the wires up/switching them around. Is back to factory locations? or is it bypassing the start stop module. Just not sure what step I am at in the process.

    Also I clicked on the link very cool site with lots of info but didn't see anything explicitly related to the "diagnostics process" you mentioned, though I may have missed it.

    I did just find this sticky, is this where I should start?
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=97491

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnest View Post
    Thank you for pointing me in the direction of diagnosing the problem. I just want to verify a couple things before I move forward.

    The way you had me hook the wires up/switching them around. Is back to factory locations? or is it bypassing the start stop module. Just not sure what step I am at in the process.

    Also I clicked on the link very cool site with lots of info but didn't see anything explicitly related to the "diagnostics process" you mentioned, though I may have missed it.

    I did just find this sticky, is this where I should start?
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=97491
    Prior to 2000 Polaris had all the red engines wired as I instructed you, all the Red/Purple wires connected together.

    Polaris discovered a problem with some of the CDI modules that resulted in REstarts of the (warm) engine not working until several minutes wait. To work around this problem (rather than fixing the CDI itself, which they should have, in my opinion) Polaris introduced that Orange-Red/Purple wire jumper ‘fix’. And the fix ‘works’ but now the LR module is also involved in powering the CDI, which makes diagnostics more complex. If the LR module is misbehaving the CDI won’t work either.

    By reverting the wiring to the ‘old’ configuration, with all Red/Purple wires connected together, the LR module is no longer messing with the power feed to the CDI. Which simplifies diagnostics. Even if your CDI is one of those that suffers from the REstart problem, initial cold engine starts will still work. Which is what you are trying to resolve - the engine does not start at all.

    Get it running, THEN you can check whether your particular CDI even has the REstart problem. It might not, in which case the old pre-2000 red engine wiring configuration is just fine.

    Note: The Freedom model has TWO different LR modules. One is LR-85 for the dash, the other is LR-505 which controls engine start and stop (among other things). The LR-505 is the module that you would bypass to isolate it from interfering with the CDI via the ignition kill wire.

    So, power the CDI directly by connecting all Red/Purple wires together, and removing the Orange to Red/Purple jumper wire entirely.
    AND do the full bypass of LR-505 module.
    Now the CDI is directly connected to power and should be ready to start the engine.

    Proceed with your diagnostics from this configuration.

  8. #8
    Thank you for the background on the wire jumping. I will leave it as is for now. I think I found the issue. The resistance between leads on the coil end going to the spark plug is 2920 it looks like the manual says it should be within 1200-1600 I have ordered a coil, hopefully that does the trick.

    The hard part part for me to get my head wrapped around is the fact that the stator was clearly busted, broken and not working, I’m surprised to see another component bad as well, when I am tracking down the no spark issue. I expected to find something messed up with wiring from prior owner after the stator didn’t do the trick.

    Maybe when the stator broke it fried the coil?? Seems far fetched for me but I’m new to this.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    When diagnosing problems, I never assume there is only one thing wrong. Especially with watercraft.

    I am happy if I fix only one thing and the machine starts working, but I am often suspicious that I just haven’t found the other problems. Yet.

  10. #10
    So when I am testing the Hall effect sensor I got nothing but open readings I then tested my old trashed stator in the flywheel and same results just open readings. No change when rotating. If I understand this correctly there are magnets going around the inside ring of the stator. I think those magnets may have been ripped out of the flywheel when the stator broke free from the block. Does this explain why my resistance is constant? Can anyone confirm by looking at this pic that there should be magnets in the plastic inner housing?


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