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  1. #1

    CDK 2 help for making easy adjustments on 1100 zxi

    Long story short I am having problems tuning my cdk2s on an 96 1100 zxi. It really sucks to have to take off the carbs each time to adjust and the middle main screw sucks *** to adjust. Does anyone know where to but a easy adjust screw, a way to adjust it without taking the carbs off, or where to even buy new stock keihin adjustment screws because I cant find them anywhere??? I want to find an easier way to adjust and try that before I make a post about the problems I am having and how odd the plugs look/how it is reacting because I feel like that is half the battle. I can only take the carbs off so many times at the lake before it gets dark after work and the gas to get there just to mess around and leave in not a good mood is starting to take is toll on my wallet and patience.

    Thanks,
    Josh


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    have you checked for cracked reed valves and done a leak down test on the engine?..

    it's likely you are chasing your tail because of an air leak

    lets see some pics of your plugs

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  4. #3
    The plugs were fine and it was running great but I installed a timing advance plate and aftermarket waterbox and decided to ritchen it up before I even tried it (mistake). Now I am having a hard time getting it back to normal.

    I reset to factory settings, got it hot, changed to new plugs and rode for 7mins down the lake and back. I then took out the plugs and they look like I just installed them so I freaked out thinking it was super lean and backed off the screws a whole turn then ran like garbage and felt rich after 10 mins, pulled over and the plugs still looked lean. Decided to run for another 10 mins without change and the plugs finally got some color to them. The front and rear cylinders where pig rich and the center seems quite lean. Also grounding strap on all cylinders is a grey color (probably due to extra heat so might try one plug colder or take off ignition plate).

    Basically I think I think I made the assumption that it was running lean too quickly before the plugs had time to get "dirty". I really believe a easier way to adjust the carbs on the fly would make my life 100x easier on the lake and I am looking for a method to do so. Last time I was on the lake I had almost all 3 dialed in after removing the carbs twice but figured I would rather start over from stock settings in hopes to get closer and to start fresh but that was a big mistake as you can tell from above. I am really tired of taking these things off there has to be a better method.

    Also based off my last experience I have a question. How long should you run a new plug before checking it? it seems that you should go about 20mins of riding? They really looked brand new after that 7min ride with the exception of the ground strap being grey.

  5. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    yeah, those little facts matter a whole lot. Like answering all the questions...

    did you check the reeds?

    did you ever leak test the engine?

    before you end up melting a piston, pull the head and see what the piston tops look like

    back when I did two stroke work* I had the luxury of tuning them in a water tank where I could run the engine at full throttle with the seat off

    I recall using a right angle flexible screwdriver to adjust the carb mixture. changes like water boxes typically require re jetting are you 100% your carbs are up to snuff?..what up with you wanting to buy stock adjustment screws?..did you check the tips of the mix screws for damage?

    you have a number of challenges, adding too many non stock parts at once can be a frustrating experience. Just ask anybody trying to go stage three out of the gate on a four stroke ski and then having to troubleshoot a problem. Too many variables leads to a chalkboard equation to staisfaction

    the worrisome thing was my first assumption. with the center jug looking lean while the outers look rich is screaming " I've got an air leak that gets worse as the engine gets hotter" deal.

    if you cannot test of an air leak I'd suggest getting the engine running in full stock mode with all factory carb settings, then start with the water box mod after the ski is running well. Once the carbs are set up for the water box, you can dick with the timing

    buy a cheap bore camera if you don't want to pull the heads

    if you continue down this road you should invest in a temp gun, so you can at the least head off an engine meltdown, and its reassuring to see that the cylinder heads aren't of strikingly different temps or in the danger zone

    those engine are prone to intake manifold leaks if you re-use the metal gaskets

    which timing plate and which waterbox are you trying to use. Perhaps somebody on the forum has "been there, done that" and will save you my finger wagging lectures. Honestly, I don't want to see you melt your engine

    *(one of the reasons I stopped working on two strokes is that to compete with newer skis everybody was throwing parts on their skis then bringing them to me for "a quick tune" As you can see, that sort of stuff gets frustrating fast and at our higher altitude you can't have everything and people were reluctant to move ahead when I told them what I would charge them to straighten out their mess. Most weren't happy when I told them they prop they put on the ski after reading about it on the internet would never allow them to reach top speed here. Then they would argue, and then I would show them the gate

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    yeah, those little facts matter a whole lot. Like answering all the questions...

    did you check the reeds?

    did you ever leak test the engine?

    before you end up melting a piston, pull the head and see what the piston tops look like

    back when I did two stroke work* I had the luxury of tuning them in a water tank where I could run the engine at full throttle with the seat off

    I recall using a right angle flexible screwdriver to adjust the carb mixture. changes like water boxes typically require re jetting are you 100% your carbs are up to snuff?..what up with you wanting to buy stock adjustment screws?..did you check the tips of the mix screws for damage?

    you have a number of challenges, adding too many non stock parts at once can be a frustrating experience. Just ask anybody trying to go stage three out of the gate on a four stroke ski and then having to troubleshoot a problem. Too many variables leads to a chalkboard equation to staisfaction

    the worrisome thing was my first assumption. with the center jug looking lean while the outers look rich is screaming " I've got an air leak that gets worse as the engine gets hotter" deal.

    if you cannot test of an air leak I'd suggest getting the engine running in full stock mode with all factory carb settings, then start with the water box mod after the ski is running well. Once the carbs are set up for the water box, you can dick with the timing

    buy a cheap bore camera if you don't want to pull the heads

    if you continue down this road you should invest in a temp gun, so you can at the least head off an engine meltdown, and its reassuring to see that the cylinder heads aren't of strikingly different temps or in the danger zone

    those engine are prone to intake manifold leaks if you re-use the metal gaskets

    which timing plate and which waterbox are you trying to use. Perhaps somebody on the forum has "been there, done that" and will save you my finger wagging lectures. Honestly, I don't want to see you melt your engine

    *(one of the reasons I stopped working on two strokes is that to compete with newer skis everybody was throwing parts on their skis then bringing them to me for "a quick tune" As you can see, that sort of stuff gets frustrating fast and at our higher altitude you can't have everything and people were reluctant to move ahead when I told them what I would charge them to straighten out their mess. Most weren't happy when I told them they prop they put on the ski after reading about it on the internet would never allow them to reach top speed here. Then they would argue, and then I would show them the gate
    Reeds were checked with a visual inspection

    No leak down test but I will

    Pull the head off? Not yet but Yes I will do that

    I want to buy stock adjustment screws for two reasons. As a kit with seals and springs to eliminate the chance of there being any leaking from the orings and small seal, and the heads on the screws are chewed up from using pliers and not a legitimate screwdriver which I would like to use to make my life easier.

    As far as running non stock parts yes I had a feeling I was going to have a problem like this. The ski ran great in stock form at the end of last season and with the waterbox. It was only after adding the timing plate with the addition of screwing with the carbs that I started noticing a problem.

    temp gun was actually on my list for my next outing of trying to do this

    I am using the R&D timing plate and a TDR waterbox (please ANYONE with experience of using a timing plate on an 1100 zxi chime in)

    Thanks for the help and I don't want it to melt either. I am very close to having a solid ski, I have done a lot of work to make it reliable with just about every wear part being replaced. This is the last thing to get right before it stays here for a good while. I might honestly take off the timing plate if I cant find anything else wrong and try to tune it once more with no avail. Id rather have a ski that moves just a bit slower then not at all.

  7. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    You can adjust the carbs on that 'Ski without removing the carbs. It's not easy, but you can do it. I used a 1/4" hex bit and a 1/4" combination wrench to turn it. I removed the flame arrestor and bought some shorter screws to hold the carbs on when the FA was removed. I put some screen over the carbs to act as a flame arrestor.

    Just don't drop the wrench!

  8. #7
    Rodsatheart's Avatar
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    I solved that issue with a wire coat hanger. Made a t handle at one end, cut it long enough to reach about 3 inches past the front carb, and hammered the cut end flat to make a little screwdriver. Ground the sides to the same size as the hanger, and works perfect. Made another one with a bend in it for #3 carb. I set the screws on my STX at 1 1/8 turn out low and 1 turn high with 26 pop off.
    Just me, but I would look for other ways to make reliable power. Gasket matching the exhaust, impeller, deburring and polishing the pump, Have the head milled a bit to bump the compression. Doesn't it also have the air temp sensor ? That can be jumped to advance the timing some at low rpm.
    Once you have it tuned, you could get some TAU Ceti flame arrestors.
    Playing with timing is like playing with fire. It can burn pretty bad if your not careful.

  9. #8
    Rodsatheart's Avatar
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    The T handle one is 10.5" long, and the other is 13.5" long (this one is more for fine tuning as you only get minimal movement with it).
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  10. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I go with one of these $20 works in most cases, but with the carb screws buggered up, this toy is a no-go

    LINK



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