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  1. #1
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    4tec Thrust Washer Failed twice now...

    Changed the impeller on my boat with a 2003 4tec 185 sc, and went riding. About an hour later, one of my thrrst washers failed. I had this horrible growling/grinding sound, vibrations as if the engine was being stopped intermittently and sometimes, when you stop cranking, it'd stop suddenly. Anyway, I got a tow and checked the pump and SC. Both were fine. Then I pulled the oil filter and found aluminum chunks in there. Out the engine went. Found that the front thrust washer got creamed.

    Right away, people suggested I didn't tighten the prop right, but it was tight on the pump when I took it off. Then I saw that all 3 motor mounts ripped. The top part ripped out of the rubber, some nearly all the way. The motor was loose in there. I figured it got impaled on the drive shaft. Relieved that I found the issue, I got all new mounts and new thrust washers. Plastigauged the main bearings (were fine) and reassembled with new bolts and gaskets.

    Went camping and after less than 8hr riding, the thurst washers failed again. I pulled the filter and gain found slivers of metal in there. I did notice a vibration while riding. It seemed to be isolated to certain RPM ranges, especially WOT. At 5-6k rpm, it was smooth, and that's where we rode it mostly. It failed at one of these smooth bands. Seemed like we hit a log, and the engine started making that churning noise again. It really sounds like it's coming from the pump, but again, I pulled the pump and it's smooth turning.

    Could an unbalanced prop do this? Bent drive shaft? I've never heard of either destroying the THRUST bearing.


  2. #2

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    You can’t just throw a new thrust washer in there after one was destroyed without taking the crank and having it inspected/repaired first. The small grooves left by the destroyed thrust washer will destroy the new one.

  3. #3

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    usually when the thrust bearing goes, you need a new block and crankshaft. Did you check clearances? Bad pump bearings generally cause the thrust bearings to be wiped out.

  4. #4
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yoffer2490 View Post
    You canít just throw a new thrust washer in there after one was destroyed without taking the crank and having it inspected/repaired first. The small grooves left by the destroyed thrust washer will destroy the new one.
    The case never got touched, and the crank was solid on the new bearing. The grooves in the crank were so minuscule they couldn't even be felt. How would you repair that anyway? Would they just shave that surface? Wouldn't I have to find larger bearings then?

  5. #5

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    Forgive me as I come from Big block and small block chevy stuff, but when a cam or bearings get wiped out the block comes completely apart and all the oil passages and orifices cleaned and flushed out including the crank. Even the cam bearings are changed. Not knowing or seeing your issue I think you may have contamination causing this. Also did you check fore and aft thrust movement with an indicator after the new parts. The naked eye cannot see in thou increments.

  6. #6
    ptscon's Avatar
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    I'm assuming you had the motor aligned after replacing the mounts?

  7. #7
    Mod less, ride more! troyheb's Avatar
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    How did you repair the block? If the trust washer goes it destroys the block.
    They make a repair kit for Yamaha, but as far as I know there is nothing for Seadoo.

  8. #8
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by troyheb View Post
    How did you repair the block? If the trust washer goes it destroys the block.
    They make a repair kit for Yamaha, but as far as I know there is nothing for Seadoo.
    The block was preserved by the bearing. The crank ate into the bearing, but didn't touch the block.

    I did align the motor after new mounts.

    It doesn't make sense to me that the crank would wear significantly enough to require service as the bearing material is so much softer. When it was all together with the pto housing off, I could grab the pro coupler and slide the crank back and forth and hear an audible click. When I put the new thrust bearing in, it was completely solid. No movement that I could perceive. I know it's not the scientific way but I didn't have the tools there to do those measurements. The crank looked damn near perfect when I reassembled it. That thrust surface was in great shape.

    What im hearing though is that bad pump bearings and bent drives can cause this failure? Right? Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
    EVN81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IDoSeaDoo View Post
    When I put the new thrust bearing in, it was completely solid. No movement that I could perceive.
    The crank need some axial play after install of thrust washer due heat expansion.
    Probably somewhere material was left behind at the case or at the crank.

    Try new thrust washer again and remove / clean some material from crank with lathe if needed to get correct clearance.

    Look in servicemanual for specs

  10. #10

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    that crankshaft is for sure damaged

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