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Thread: IBR Rebuild

  1. #1

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    IBR Rebuild

    So the IBR on my mom's ski took a dump at 98 hours, its a 17' gti 155. I also had a 17' gti that the ibr went out on last year which was replaced under warranty before I traded them in on my px that I have now (with a 3 year warranty). Currently there is no information online about rebuilding the IBR instead of paying $700 for a complete new unit. Which is what we did with my moms ski. I had the old unit sitting on my desk and decided to tear into it to figure out what went wrong. Turns out the mechanism is actually very simple and its run by a cheap dc motor by the looks of it. Instantly after separating the ibr cases it smelt burnt and it was easy to see that it came from the motor. There was dust all around it and when I pulled the motor out the brushes fell out of the motor. After doing some light research the motor seems to be VERY similar the 775, 795, and 895 motors that can be had on ebay for less than $20. Prematurely I had ordered a replacement 775 motor without doing any measurements to see if the size was compatible with the one in the IBR unit itself but for $12 shipped ill take the chance.

    Now the issue that's come up is the pinion gear attached to the shaft of the motor, it has a plastic collar around it restricting me from taking it apart. The gear must be reused with the new motor coming and unfortunately I wont be able to pry it off without damaging the plastic collar that holds the gears. Ive seen a few gear pullers for RC cars that might do the trick, but I think im going to take it to my local hobby shop and have them remove it for me.

    To me, it seems like BRP really dropped the ball with such a simple part that costs us WAYY more than it should to fix. In this case, it wasn't a matter of riding style or whatever you could call, it was a matter of time. The carbon brushes on these motors wear down and eventually it was going to happen. The gears were all in great condition and no other wear was noted. Ill try and keep this thread up to date as I trial and error and hopefully figure it out and have a spare ibr unit on the shelf just in case.



    This is picture of the the 775 dc motor for reference.

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    Last edited by Yoffer2490; 06-25-2019 at 10:55 PM.


  2. #2
    DR2006RXP's Avatar
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    Did you get the 775 or 795 ??? The 775 will not work I installed one and it moves the bucket but will not pass calibration so unless you get it to calibrate its deadweight, I spent weeks looking for that motor nothing seems to work , either had diff specs of diff tolerance.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by DR2006RXP View Post
    Did you get the 775 or 795 ??? The 775 will not work I installed one and it moves the bucket but will not pass calibration so unless you get it to calibrate it’s deadweight, I spent weeks looking for that motor nothing seems to work , either had diff specs of diff tolerance.
    I ordered the 775. I figured something like that would happen. I managed to get the gear off the motor shaft. The problem ended up the being the carbon brush tab broke off causing the motor not to work. But the way it broke I believe I can use the carbon brushes off the 775 that I ordered to replace the broken one on the stock motor.






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  5. #4
    that is literally the cheapest built motor available.

  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by raven007 View Post
    that is literally the cheapest built motor available.
    Your not kidding. I thought the same thing when I took it apart and saw it. It couldn’t cost more than a couple of bucks for that exact motor when the part was assembled. But yet costs us $700+ when they go bad. But luckily the way this motor broke I may be able to use parts off the one I ordered to replace the broken ones on this one and I’ll have a good backup sitting on the shelf.

  7. #6
    it might be interesting to measure the ohms of the armature while you have it apart. Might make sourcing something a little less hit or miss.

  8. #7

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    Just a shout out and thanks for posting this. I found this thread after watching JP's Adventures video no youtube that referenced it.

    It worked on my 2017 Trixx with 115 hours. I used a 775 motor from Amazon for $18. The new motor was so much more powerful than the old one. I'm guessing that's why my IBR beep kept going on when I would go into forward. After installing the new motor, it moves into forward, reverse, neutral much faster.

    One note: When reinstalling the actuator arm to the bucket I didn't screw the actual arm in enough times (which is separate from the black plastic nut) - so the bucket rested lower than it should - and for the Trixx that meant I couldn't get the gate to rise up enough to do wheelies. I fixed it and now it works great. Thanks again. I figured that saved $720+tax for a new actuator + ~4-6 hours dealer labor, and a month of wait time. Hope this helps someone else...


  9. #8

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    Had the same issue as the OP. Brush broke off inside the motor. Bought the same 775 motor from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08662QSZL as andrewsilver linked to me. Have run for 3 hrs or so with no issues.
    This was on a '17 GTR230 with 148 hrs. Cheap fix for me

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