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Thread: Overheat light

  1. #1

    Overheat light

    Ok....i final got my thru hull bearing back in and the updated oil tank in. It doesnt seem to be leaking any water in the hull and there also isn't anymore water im my oil so i think i took care of those two issues. I took the jetski out. After about 5 mins i had the temp light come on and it made it so i couldn't go over like 2500rpms. There is a steady flow of coolant when i open the reservoir. Also i feel water coming out from down below. The little screen is not clogged. It also doesn't over heat on the hose. Is there anything i can check easily?


  2. #2
    martincom's Avatar
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    Is it actually overheating or just the warning indicator without and overheat?

    The temp sensor in the water jacket of the exhaust manifold are known for being problematic. I got into some weeds with both of mine when idling, which restricted the intake screen and caused an overheat warning. We cleared the intake and even waiting for them to cool to ambient temp, the overheat indicator remained on. The exhaust temp sensor on both were a "one time" activation and remained shorted. If they are defective, simply unplug them. If the overheat indicator clears, that is your problem. You can obtain replacements from Weber Powersports.

  3. #3
    Since it doesn't have a temp gauge how do i know if its actually overheating? Because its not steaming/smoking or anything. Where exactly are the sensors so i can try to unplug them?

  4. #4
    martincom's Avatar
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    The poor man's method is to grasp the cooling hoses or feel the water jacket of the exhaust resonator and guessamate the temp. You'll be able to touch 180F and hold your finger/palm on it for 10 seconds or so. Much hotter than that, no.

    The more accurate, yet affordable, method is to utilize one of those handheld digital infrared thermometers. They typically sell for around $30 at Sears Craftsman, Harbor Freight, etc. You just point it at at the exhaust resonator and pull the trigger.

    If the sensor is defective, it'll result in an overheat indicator as soon as the engine is started, when still cold.

    The exhaust temp sensor is just rearward of the waste gate diaphragm and a bit lower, if memory serves me correctly. Check this out for more information and photos of where the sensor are located.



  5. #5
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    FYI the exhaust temperature overheat will limit RPMs to just off idle (~1700 RPM)

  6. #6
    Ok so i just want to verify a couple things before i take it back on the water. Ill attach a few pictures. I think i found the two sensors. One of which on the intake manifold pipe the wire was barely hanging on by a single wire or two. when i went to pull the connector off the wire broke off all the way out of the contact. Going to need to solder that back on the contact now.... so maybe that was my issue? The other sensor is below the fuel rail correct? The intake manifold that im pointing to in the picture is where i should touch to check if its too hot right? So now that the exhaust sensor is "disconnected" lol. Ill take it out and see if it still has overheat light.

    When i start my ski in the water and its idling how is water getting forced in the water intake? How would i know that is for sure doing that?

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  7. #7
    Welli just got back from taking it out on the water. No overheat light and the manifold didn't get too hot although i do have a question about the valve cover and the rubber oil lines. Those got really hot. Is that normal?

    Also is it normal for the driveshaft to get really hot where it comes through the thru hull bearing. I reached my hand down there to make sure the large seal is still i place and everything was really hot. I'm just worried that iif the driveshaft is misaligned it might be causing the heat. I didn't pay attention to how much it vibrated before i changed the carrier bearing seals so im not sure the vibrations i feel/see is normal. The oil reservoir tank i see vibrates pretty good.

    Other than that it ran awesome. Im about to head back out with the kids.
    Last edited by Yamazuki850; 06-23-2019 at 11:30 AM.

  8. #8
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    I think the driveshaft heat is definitely a cause for concern. Did you either a) drill and pin the THB bearing carrier prior to removal or b) perform an ACCURATE pump/THB/engine alignment?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by HiPeRcO View Post
    I think the driveshaft heat is definitely a cause for concern. Did you either a) drill and pin the THB bearing carrier prior to removal or b) perform an ACCURATE pump/THB/engine alignment?
    So I drilled the two holes in the bearing carrier and had them in while installing. I also didn't tighten the mounting bolts until the pump assy and everything was installed. Once the the Bearing carrier was tight the drill bits came out just fine so there was no binding. The issue could be that it was not aligned properly before I even started. That could be why the "large seal" was completely out of the housing to begin with. If the alignment tool wasn't so expensive I would have used that to align the pump/thb/engine.

    What are your thoughts?

  10. #10
    martincom's Avatar
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    Update your profile to indicate your location. There maybe someone nearby with an alignment tool. Here as an aftermarket alternate and this is what I utilize:

    1) This rod: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121655978407
    2) This sleeve (only needed for MSX carriers, aligns the carrier to the driveshaft using the bearing in the carrier): http://www.ebay.com/itm/111444950712
    3) A solid PTO coupler from an older Polaris

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