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  1. #1
    Haven't fallen yet. MJE's Avatar
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    Freeing up stiff/frozen cables...GP1300

    My nozzle cables are pretty much frozen...I assume the brunt of the problem is probably within the first 6 inches of the beginning of each piece. What have you all used/done in order to free your cables up in the past. Also...what on earth is the part number for the throttle cable and or where is it located in the microfiche Yamaha parts. I have looked for hours and cannot find the damn thing.


  2. #2

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    Based on the dirt bike cable lubers that clamp onto the cable then you insert the aerosol can red sprayer tube and it will pressure the system and force lube through the cable.

    I made my own with electrical tape, make sure the red tube can free flow spray between the steel cable and jacket, then electrical tape the crap out of it. Do bursts of lube with your fingers applying pressure to seal it better, it will for sure leak out a bit.

    Then in your case wait maybe every 5-10 minutes and spray again, keep trying to work the cable until it frees up. When it's free just do bursts of lube and work the cable back and forth. You should see oil dripping out of the other end to prove the whole length has got lubrication.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by MJE View Post
    Also...what on earth is the part number for the throttle cable and or where is it located in the microfiche Yamaha parts. I have looked for hours and cannot find the damn thing.
    You might be able to search for "gp1300r throttle cable" on ebay, some sellers should include the OEM number to help people find the product if they search via the part number only. Then google that part number it might take you to the microfish

  4. #4
    https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oem...injection-pump

    Its on the page with the injection pump

  5. #5
    Tool Bag water worx's Avatar
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    Buy new cables

  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    Remove the cable end and locknut, as well as any rubber seals. Make sure to count the number of turns when you remove the cable end. Measure the diameter of the metal cable housing end and get some vinyl hose with that ID. Slide the hose over the cable so that it goes over the metal housing and secure it with a small hose clamp. Raise the hose up as high as your can (tie it to something on the ceiling of your garage, etc.) and fill the hose with a light penetrating oil, such as Marvel Mystery Oil. Do not use WD-40! Wait... Check the next day and see if the cable moves. If not, wait... If it doesn't come free after 2 days, remove the hose and re-install the cable end. Tap the cable end inward with a small hammer. If it still won't move, replace the cable.

    After I lube a cable, I like to follow the penetrating oil with some heavier oil that won't wash out as easily.

    When you're finished lubricating it, replace the rubber seals, locknut, cable end, and connect the end to the nozzle.

    If you boat in salt water, lube the cables every year. In fresh water, every 3 years is probably OK.

    Once a cable starts to give trouble, DO NOT FORCE IT! Doing so will certainly ruin it.

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  7. #7
    ncdoo's Avatar
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    After you've tried all that,
    buy new cables.

  8. #8

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    I'm with the "buy new cables" crowd. I've tried lubing up my sticky/frozen cables. Fail. I've tried forcing oil down the cable using a fabricated contraption and compressed air but it resulted in failure.

    I've purchased new cables for my boat twice and both times I was back on the water with minimal hassle.

    I've purchased several good, smooth working, used cables for my skis. (Steering-1996 Sea Doo XP, 1994 WaveRaider, 1997 GP1200.) I guess I've been lucky so far as all of them worked and I was back on the water with minimal frustration.

  9. #9
    Mighty Mouse's Avatar
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    I've tried reviving cables as well. Never seems to work after they rust. Always had to buy.

  10. #10
    steve45's Avatar
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    Funny, I've had 22 PWCs and a Yamaha jet boat. I've never had to replace a steering cable, a shift cable, or a trim cable. I've had to replace throttle/oil pump cables and choke cables, and they never get exposed to the water. Wonder what I'm doing wrong???

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