Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21
  1. #11
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,403
    +1
    1,880
    Quote Originally Posted by rileypeck View Post
    Yes I had it running, ran great for 3 trips then the rear piston failed. The new motor came with the harness all hooked up ready to go.

    It's different enough
    though I'm having to extend some plugins and route out the lr mod.
    Just use your old harness. Should work just fine.

  2. #12
    Here are a couple pics. It's slow to load with my phone and I havent put any pics on the computer yet.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20190526_130643.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	79.6 KB 
ID:	449628   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20190524_230125.jpg 
Views:	21 
Size:	61.9 KB 
ID:	449629  

  3. #13
    I used the one I found reccomended on here. Should I power it off of a relay switched by the power from the emm to be on the safe side?

  4. #14
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,403
    +1
    1,880
    Quote Originally Posted by rileypeck View Post
    I used the one I found reccomended on here.

    Should I power it off of a relay switched by the power from the emm to be on the safe side?
    I have an aversion to recommending wiring modifications if they are not necessary.

    Relays and the connections to them I prefer to have sealed inside a weather proof enclosure.

    Reliability is important. If the added relay somehow sticks in the on mode when the lanyard is pulled or engine turned off it could cause battery run down (and possible stranding) or potentially a fire if there was a fuel leak.

    A few others have inserted a relay in the Ficht fuel pump circuit. I think I may have even provided some guidance on how best to wire it in, in an old thread somewhere on here.


  5. #15
    I am with you on the reliability. This boat gets me up rivers few can go. Running shallow enough pushing back downstream is a terrible option..!

    I cannot do a full test yet as the kiddos are asleep above the garage, but it looks to me like the only thing I had to do to delete the lr module was to wire the black/white wire from the starter solenoid direct to ground.

    I have power through solenoid now when start button is pressed, open circuit between black/yellow and ground @ the lr mod plug, closed circuit when stop button is pressed or lanyard is pulled. Hopefully do a better test soon but if that was all it took it was way easier than I expected!

  6. #16
    Ok, looking for a little more technical advice.
    Got the motor running without the LR module installed. It initially had no spark, traced it back to verify it was not due to the missing LR mod, it wasn't. Then I realized the front (mag) cylinder had spark. Coils ohmed out fine, finally tried the spark plug leads from the blown motor and had spark. Fired the motor up, need to back into a lake and run it a bit, it seems to run rough.

    My main concern now is it has to crank a few times before the spark starts. What would this be a symptom of?

    Thanks for all the help!

    Riley

  7. #17
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,403
    +1
    1,880
    Are you using the correct spark plugs?


    Do the single cylinder at a time check.

    Ground two of the three spark plug wires, then see if it will start and run, probably kinda rough, on just that one cylinder. Might need some throttle squeeze to keep it running.

    Do the same test with each of the other cylinders. Each single cylinder should run about the same (similarly rough, since only one cylinder is firing).

    If not then something is wrong with the cylinder (ignition/fuel/plug?) that cannot run by itself.
    Last edited by K447; 06-18-2019 at 11:20 PM.

  8. #18
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    2,797
    +1
    213
    Spark should happen as soon as the EMM gets ~12V built up on the injector bus, and sees rpm signal from the CPS. Check to see if your injector volts are building slowly for some reason. Also check CPS ohms, should be less than 200.

  9. #19
    Yes, correct NGK spark plugs. How do you ground the spark on the other two cylinders?

    CPS ohms 146. How would I check for slow building volts? I don't have the best multimeter sometimes it is slow to pickup as it is.

    Got the boat out last night for a quick test run and it did great. No issues running just kind of slow starting.

    Thanks,
    Riley

  10. #20
    Also, on a side note, are the engine hours stored on the EMM or on the MFI? The MFI is from the first motor and only shows 18 hours on the newer motor. Having trouble believing that..

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. WTB - Parts Polaris LR-503 module, 4010346 or 4010906
    By K447 in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-21-2016, 02:46 PM
  2. FS Yamaha 1.8L fuel module complete.. NEW..
    By Bruce in forum Yamaha Classifieds
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-26-2015, 02:29 PM
  3. LR-503-1 Module
    By bspanovic in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-16-2014, 12:35 AM
  4. Polaris start/stop LR-503-3 module available anywhere?
    By TXi1200 in forum Polaris Tech Tips and Info
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-26-2013, 07:28 AM
  5. Speed Control Overide Module Removal
    By moultrie rxp in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-25-2013, 06:40 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •