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  1. #11
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Msxslayer View Post
    Polish the head with what?
    Start with a flat sheet of 400 grit (approx). See how it looks after the initial rubbing. Look for high or low spots, indications of warp or out of flat.

    If the head is flat then you aren’t looking to remove a lot of material, more to just confirm the head is actually flat, or isn’t. The key is to lay the sandpaper on something that you know is 100% flat.

    Wet sanding will give you a smoother finish, just flush the wet type sandpaper paper with water frequently to clear the removed metal dust.

    The finished surface does not need to be mirror smooth. Just not grooved from too rough a grit or tiny aluminum bits. And flat.


  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Start with a flat sheet of 400 grit (approx). See how it looks after the initial rubbing. Look for high or low spots, indications of warp or out of flat.

    If the head is flat then you aren’t looking to remove a lot of material, more to just confirm the head is actually flat, or isn’t. The key is to lay the sandpaper on something that you know is 100% flat.

    Wet sanding will give you a smoother finish, just flush the wet type sandpaper paper with water frequently to clear the removed metal dust.

    The finished surface does not need to be mirror smooth. Just not grooved from too rough a grit or tiny aluminum bits. And flat.
    I had to use vaseoline to keep the orings in place

  3. #13
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Might also consider rigging up a leak down test for the engine+exhaust manifold water jacket.

    Cap off the various hose fittings and so on. Then pressurize the water jacket with maybe 10 PSI, close the feed valve and monitor the water jacket air pressure for multiple minutes. Should be able to hold the air pressure steady if the water jacket is fully sealed.

    Normally leak down tests are mostly done to test the engine seals on the crankshaft, etc.

    But testing the water jacket with air pressure can be useful. You can listen for internal leaks (through spark plug holes, for example) and apply soapy water to hunt for bubbling spots around the exterior.
    I suggested this to him in a PM.

    Please do this test MSXslayer

  4. #14
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Msxslayer View Post
    I had to use Vaseline to keep the orings in place
    I use a thin coating of bearing grease, on the actual o-rings. Just enough to make the o-rings tacky and stay in place.

    The o-rings depend on the groove walls, and the top and bottom faces, to all be in good condition to withstand the water pressure. And for the inner o-ring it must also withstand the combustion pulse pressures.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    I suggested this to him in a PM.

    Please do this test MSXslayer
    Will do thanks for the help. Gotta find some plugs

  6. #16
    Msxslayer's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hey this is a before and after pictures
    On heads. SOS pads scrubbed hard.

  7. #17
    Msxslayer's Avatar
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    Can I put gasket maker silicone on the orings instead of grease?

  8. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Msxslayer View Post
    Can I put gasket maker silicone on the orings instead of grease?
    No.

    The o-rings need to be able to move (slightly) within the groove, so the varying gas/water pressure behind the o-ring seals it to the opposite surfaces within the groove.

    It should not be constrained in the groove. If the o-ring is ‘stuck’ to gasket maker material then it cannot work as an o-ring. It might provide a seal with the groove filled with goop, but it would not be working as an o-ring type seal.

    Using grease it is expected that the grease will disperse and ‘wash away’ as the engine is run, leaving the o-ring free to flex and shift within the groove.

    https://www.applerubber.com/hot-topi...-o-ring-works/

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    No.

    The o-rings need to be able to move (slightly) within the groove, so the varying gas/water pressure behind the o-ring seals it to the opposite surfaces within the groove.

    It should not be constrained in the groove. If the o-ring is ‘stuck’ to gasket maker material then it cannot work as an o-ring. It might provide a seal with the groove filled with goop, but it would not be working as an o-ring type seal.

    Using grease it is expected that the grease will disperse and ‘wash away’ as the engine is run, leaving the o-ring free to flex and shift within the groove.

    https://www.applerubber.com/hot-topi...-o-ring-works/
    Thanks. Was a brain fart.

  10. #20
    Msxslayer's Avatar
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    Hey. So I did the pressure test
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And is holding strong. I got the spark plugs out. No signs of sounds



    I donno.

    Before the test I started it on the hose and ran it for a bit and shut down.
    Water off engine off!!

    I took big pipe off the manifold and in the center hole. Is signs of water
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Someone on here that’s not good and it’s not saposed to be water till 2/3 way through the system


    So is it actually okay
    Or wha. I dot. Wanna go to the slip and try the seadoo then seize it cause of water intrusion,

    Can anybody help

    Still holding at 20

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