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  1. #1

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    2004 Polaris MSX150 thru hull carrier bearing and overheat light

    Hi, i just picked up a msx 150 with 60hrs on it. It's in great shape and whole ski still looks brand new. I took the guys word for it that it ran great on the water. All i did was hook it to hose started it checked oil and did compression test along with a good look over. I was amazing with how well it was taken care of and he had a impressive maintenance record so i bought it. After doing research i decided to change oil and make sure i didnt over fill it and also added that oil catch can to prevent oil ingestion. I did notice that it might have had a small amount of oil that worked into the IC but the map sensors were clean. I took it out it ran great all day long. Strong turbo. After a few hours i did end up getting rpm limited to about 6500-6800hrs. Near the end of the day we had it beached for a couple hours. I came back to take the kids out again and i got a overheat light. There was no throttle response. I took the seat off and realized the hull had a bunch of water in it. So i put it on trailer, emptied water and Took it home. After i got home i hooked it to the hose to see if the overheat light went out. It did. I then filled the hull up with water too see where the leak was coming from. It seems to me there is a small leak coming from the thru hull carrier bearing. Is that hard to change. What all do i need to fix that and i read that you might have those parts? I already am in the process of getting a bilge pump installed. Also would water in the hull cause that overheat issue? Also could the carrier bearing leaking cause the rpm limitation? I read in the manual that it could. Any other thoughts about rpm limitations? I bought new map sensors for $30 to rule that out. But i am wondering if i need to fix that small leak before i take it out again or if im fine as long as i have the bilge pump. Im brand new to jet skis....


  2. #2
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Welcome to Greenhulk!

    First things first, a "small" leak at the through hull bearing (THB) are the jetski gods smiling upon you, and giving you a warning that your ski is about to sink if you run it much longer!

    Overheat: How does the coolant level look? And do you have a nice strong flow into the coolant bottle, even at idle? (I'm asking because the water pump intermediate gears are known to fail...)

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  4. #3

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    The coolant level looks fine. Not sure on the flow yet because i just checked the oil and its really milky. Obviously i got water in my oil which really sucks... did i just ruin the motor? How do i go about flushing this all out? I know i need to run cheap oil through it. When i do that do i start the motor each time amd let it run? Do i need to change the oil filter each time? Man i went from having a running jetski to i think i just wasted $3500....

  5. #4
    martincom's Avatar
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    You have a lot of things going on there.

    The ECM will limit RPMs when there is an overheat indication. So I would attribute your lack of RPM & throttle response to that. Did you get into any weeds or debris when riding? It doesn't take much to restrict/plug the cooling water inlet in the jet pump. Benn there, done that when I had MSX150s.

    Is it possible that you induced water into the oil system with your "catch-can" mod when the hull flooded?

    Here is a link to some technical info that will aid you.

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  7. #5

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    There was no water in the catch can athough im convinced that water made its way to the front of the ski where the air intake is. I now flushed the water out with fresh oil a few times...seems like i got most the water out and runs fine when i start it.

    There is a nice strong stream going into the coolant bottle.

    I did take that cover off the thru hull bearing. Its for sure bad. Ill attach a pic. I ordered a replacement off Amazon. Hopefully this works as the description says it will work with my ski. Do i need to that the part off that is attached where the bearing goes into? Its sealed all the way around. Also is there anything else i need besides those bearings? I cant find the replacement gasket for the part that is bolted on.
    https://www.amazon.com/Polaris-Drive...gateway&sr=8-2
    http://https://www.amazon.com/Polari...gateway&sr=8-2

    This is probably a dumb question but is it normal for water to come out of the exhaust when a hose is hooked up?
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    Last edited by Yamazuki850; 06-05-2019 at 07:19 PM.

  8. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yamazuki850 View Post
    ...

    I did take that cover off the thru hull bearing. Its for sure bad. Ill attach a pic. I ordered a replacement off Amazon. Hopefully this works as the description says it will work with my ski. Do i need to that the part off that is attached where the bearing goes into? Its sealed all the way around. Also is there anything else i need besides those bearings? I cant find the replacement gasket for the part that is bolted on.
    https://www.amazon.com/Polaris-Drive...gateway&sr=8-2
    http://https://www.amazon.com/Polari...gateway&sr=8-2

    This is probably a dumb question but is it normal for water to come out of the exhaust when a hose is hooked up?
    Exhaust is cooled by water spray injected into the hot gases, the water and exhaust exit the hull together.

    There is a specific technique involved in removing and rebuilding the MSX through-hull assembly. Before the four mounting nuts are loosened and the through-hull unit is removed you should drill alignment holes through the flange. This ensures the alignment will not shift when you reinstall the bearing assembly.

    The MSX driveshaft is different from every other Polaris watercraft, and the through-hull bearing affects the shaft alignment and couple with the engine.

    Also, the orientation of the seals in the assembly matters. The tricky part is that some original production was manufactured with the seals facing the wrong way.

    There are posts and threads outlining all of this, and more.

    Click on my signature link for more info
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do
    Last edited by K447; 06-05-2019 at 08:10 PM.

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  10. #7

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    K447, I can't find the post where it shows to drill the two 1/8 holes in the flange. Do you still have the picture of where you drilled your?

  11. #8
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Welcome to MSX150 life!

    Kudoes to you for reading up on the unique Weber-engined ski and learning it's eccentricities... like proper oil level, preventing oil ingestion (catch can), etc.

    Milky oil sucks. It does take a couple 3 oil flushes (I flush with cheap diesel oil) to usually get it out. I don't change oil filter each flush... only when done flushing and putting back in the expensive oil. It's preferrable to run the engine and get it hot when flushing... this helps evaporate moisture in the oil system too. Don't run on-the-hose more than a few minutes... the driveshaft is always spinning and can overheat the thru-hull seal (or in your case I guess that wouldn't matter! ).

    Regarding rebuilding the thru-hull carrier bearing and seals... there are a few things of note. That carrier's position is important to proper driveshaft alignment as it hold the forward end of the driveshaft in position (the end of which is the coupler engaged into the engine's coupler). The tip to drill two small holes... and use the small drill bits as alignment dowels when putting it back on is good. This will ensure it's back where it started... maintaining factory alignment.

    Another issue you may have though... is how to get the carrier out to rebuild. If you pulled the engine out... the driveshaft could just slide out of the carrier forward (where the engine sits) allowing you to unbolt and remove it. But since you are not pulling the engine... you will need to remove the coupler off the driveshaft and remove the driveshaft out the back (pump area)... giving you room to unbolt and remove the carrier. To do this, you will need a chain clamp to hold the driveshaft coupler tight (highly recommend you don't put a bar across the coupler fingers... you will likely break a finger on the coupler... been there done that). You will also need a specialty tool that slides on the driveshaft splines (where the driveshaft mates with the impeller - remove jetpump) and gives you a hex to put on a large socket to be able to unthread the driveshaft from the coupler you're holding with the chain clamp. These can be tight and hard to get apart. Randy at WeberPower has the driveshaft tool needed.
    http://www.weberpower.com/tools-webe...ding-tool.html

    Cheers!
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  13. #9

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    Ripcuda, thankyou for you detailed instructions it really means a lot! I've already put way to much money into this jetski since buying it, I know without this forum and all the helpful people I most likely would have just sold it as is and took a huge loss; Specially after calling around to some local mechanic shops that wont even touch this jetski. I will for sure be drilling two 1/8 holes in the flange to keep it aligned when putting it back together although I'm still really nervous about doing this after everything I read on the importance of aligning the driveshaft.

    Question about that- I can't find that a replacement rubber gasket that goes between the bearing carrier and piece that the bearing carrier attaching to. I found what the part number should be "58112495" but it's not for sale anywhere. Is that necessary to change and do you know where I can find one?

    Those 1/8th holes that I drill through the flange do I need to put any silicone in there when everything is back together?


    Im assuming that when I remove the driveshaft by holding the coupler with a vicegrip chain wrench I turn the shaft to the LEFT to loosen it correct? (Can I use a big strap wrench?)

    Lastly (for now) I found the torque for the bearing carrier bolts, but what is the torque for installing the driveshaft back in the coupler?

  14. #10

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    On a different subject. I purchased a used Oil tank reservoir update in hopes that i'll never run into the issue with oil ingestion again. I'm going to start digging around in the forums soon with tips for replacing that. (one thing at a time)

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