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  1. #1

    Another Virage with no spark...

    I have a customer who has brought a virage 700 to me with no spark. A bit of history... the ski had the 2nd generation ignition on it, last spring it cane in with no spark, replaced the entire ignition system with a known good but used 3rd gen setup. The CDI is providing 9 volts and everything in the stator and coil ohm out to spec. Plugs are new and correct. The only thing I havenít checked on the stator is the trigger coils, but I guess I need to get a 9 volt for that and test them too. Battery voltage is north of 11 VDC at the CDI while cranking.

    Is it possible for a bad ignition switch to cause no spark even with the kill circuit disconnected in the electrical box? Or are there any other problems that could be causing this that are not the trigger coils in the stator? Iíd really prefer not to sell this guy ANOTHER stator.

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WetTech View Post
    ... Battery voltage is north of 11 VDC at the CDI while cranking.

    Is it possible for a bad ignition switch to cause no spark even with the kill circuit disconnected in the electrical box?

    Or are there any other problems that could be causing this that are not the trigger coils in the stator? ...
    You seem to be approaching this methodically, which is good to see.

    When testing CDI voltage (Red/Purple CDI wire) during cranking, was the black meter probe right on the CDI black wire?
    Not on engine or battery negative post.

    If CDI Black/Yellow wire was disconnected then nothing on the handlebar or related wiring can kill ignition.

    I suggest disconnect and bypass the LR-505 module until you get this problem sorted out. While bypassed you will not have battery charging, but Start button can crank the engine and lanyard should stop it (if the CDI Ďignition killí Black/Yellow wire is reconnected).

    If the MFI dash display is suspect, you can unplug the connector behind the display. There is a MFI bypass method to allow cranking.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    You seem to be approaching this methodically, which is good to see.

    When testing CDI voltage (Red/Purple CDI wire) during cranking, was the black meter probe right on the CDI black wire?
    Not on engine or battery negative post.

    If CDI Black/Yellow wire was disconnected then nothing on the handlebar or related wiring can kill ignition.

    I suggest disconnect and bypass the LR-505 module until you get this problem sorted out. While bypassed you will not have battery charging, but Start button can crank the engine and lanyard should stop it (if the CDI ‘ignition kill’ Black/Yellow wire is reconnected).

    If the MFI dash display is suspect, you can unplug the connector behind the display. There is a MFI bypass method to allow cranking.

    Thanks K447. The voltage was at the CDI wiring, not the engine.

    Ok, what is the LR505? The regulator/rectifier? Also, how do I bypass it? Also, will the MFI cause a no spark issue or just a no crank? If it CAN cause a no spark issue, how do I bypass it?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WetTech View Post
    Thanks K447. The voltage was at the CDI wiring, not the engine.

    Ok, what is the LR505? The regulator/rectifier? Also, how do I bypass it?

    Also, will the MFI cause a no spark issue or just a no crank? If it CAN cause a no spark issue, how do I bypass it?
    Useful link for Polaris info
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    I think both the MFI bypass and the LR-505 start/stop module (aka voltage regulator) bypass can be found in there. Search function somewhere near the top right, look for bypass.

    LR-505 is only found on carburetor Genesis/Virage with a single button for engine start and stop. The LR-505 is what actually stops the engine, not the start/stop button on handlebar. So a bad LR-505 can signal ignition kill all the time, which means no-spark.

    There are multiple possible reasons for no-spark, of course.

    The lanyard switch is directly connected to ignition kill wire to CDI.

    Sometimes a bad dash display can cause weird problems with ignition. I do not know exactly how, but from time to time unplugging the display restores spark. Replace the Ďbadí display and everything is back to working

    Most Ďbadí displays are visibly not working, water inside, blackened LCD. But sometimes it looks normal, still causes trouble.

  5. #5
    Iíve other thing I should have mentioned before... before it presented with no spark this time, the start/stop button would only start the ski, not stop it. Iím thinking Iím gonna throw an LR-505 at it for general principle, as theyíre easily found and cheap and go from there.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WetTech View Post
    Iíve other thing I should have mentioned before... before it presented with no spark this time, the start/stop button would only start the ski, not stop it. Iím thinking Iím gonna throw an LR-505 at it for general principle, as theyíre easily found and cheap and go from there.
    Doing the bypass of the LR-505 takes just a few minutes of unplugging and moving a few wires around.

    If the ignition problem goes away when the LR-505 is bypassed, that is helpful to know.

    I have seen reports of variable/incorrect results using aftermarket LR modules. I do not have enough data to form a firm opinion but I would not simply assume that an aftermarket replacement LR module is going to do what it is supposed to do.

    Genuine OEM LR-505 modules seem to be getting rare now, with occasional good used OEM units popping up here and there.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Doing the bypass of the LR-505 takes just a few minutes of unplugging and moving a few wires around.

    If the ignition problem goes away when the LR-505 is bypassed, that is helpful to know.

    I have seen reports of variable/incorrect results using aftermarket LR modules. I do not have enough data to form a firm opinion but I would not simply assume that an aftermarket replacement LR module is going to do what it is supposed to do.

    Genuine OEM LR-505 modules seem to be getting rare now, with occasional good used OEM units popping up here and there.
    well... lemme make sure the bypass was done properly... black wire from LR to black buss bar, black/white from solenoid to black buss bar, ALL zither LR wires disconnected. STILL No spark. Was that done correctly?

  8. #8
    Oh, by the way, can I say Iím REALLY not a fan of Polaris skis... These and TigerSharks give me more issues electronically wise than every other non Ficht carrying ski combined...


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Genuine OEM LR-505 modules seem to be getting rare now, with occasional good used OEM units popping up here and there.
    I have been talking with "xtxracer" he is also a member here. He sold some new factory parts a while back,most notably complete Virage seat assemblies. He has LR505's for sale,he might have access to another 100 or so.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Polaris...ox!60439!US!-1

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  11. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WetTech View Post
    well... lemme make sure the bypass was done properly... black wire from LR to black buss bar, black/white from solenoid to black buss bar, ALL other LR wires disconnected.

    STILL No spark. Was that done correctly?
    You might want to also unplug and bypass the MFI display. Not common but I have seen it happen where a display messes up the ignition, somehow.

    LR-505 bypass disconnects and sets aside all of the wires from the LR module. The single wire from the solenoid then gets connected to black/ground to enable the Start button to crank the engine.

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