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  1. #1

    95 wave venture no spark At plug please help!

    hello and thanks in advance for any help. 1995 Wave venture 700 ran fine last weekend. Parked it. This weekend would not crank. Started checking. Pulled plugs they were soaking wet. Changed plugs. Same thing. Pulled them out of block And turned motor over neither is firing. Pulled the start/stop/lanyard switch apart. Not sure exactly how it supposed to work, but I think it tested good. Red wire has 12+v —ne brown wire has 12v when lanyard key is in but does not when key is out other brown gets 12v when lanyard is in and start button pressed—— white wires have continuity with black wire when stop button is pressed or if lanyard is pulled out. White wires have no continuity with black wire when lanyard is in and the stop button is not pressed (I assume this grounds out cdi? To cut off engine?)

    next, opened black box everything looked very clean and dry. Pulled small orange and black wire from ignition coil. Put my meter on 200 ohms. Checked resistance between orange and black wire. Shows 0.002. This doesn’t seem right?!? I can’t find the specs on this. Is this bad? If not, where do I go from here. Please help!


  2. #2
    Ok. Little more info: i found brown/white wire coming from flywheel inside the black box I connected my meter to it and the green/ground wire in same bundle and I get about 38v ac when cranking. That’s normal right? Next I checked the white/red wire I get 2.64v ac when cranking. I read that this should be pulsating between 4-5 volts??? Does this mean this is bad? Thanks!!!

  3. #3
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Try this. At the end of the start/stop switch, unplug the black/white plug from the main harness. Make sure you are holding the end of the plug against the block when checking spark. Very common for the start/stop switch to give issues and if you have spark again after unplugging the black/white then you can get a switch rebuild kit from Jetmaniac. The kit has everything except for the plastic housing itself. If it is not the switch then cdi is the next likely issue. I've dealt with these same exact problems on multiple yamahas.

  4. #4
    I took switch apart. I didn’t see where the start stop switch plugged in. Is it inside of the box that fastens around the handle bar?

    thanks!

  5. #5
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    With the hood up, look for the wires coming through the handlebar stem. Then trace the black/white plug as seen in pic below. No need to take the switch apart, just unplug the black/white plug and see if you have spark.

    YAMAHA-START-STOP-KILL-SWITCH-650-701-760-1100-1200-GPR-XLT

  6. #6
    Yes, i unplugged black/white plug still no fire. I found the ohm specs for the cdi. The black to white wires on cdi should ohm 10-40 k ohms. Mine shows about 6. The w/r to pink wires are also slightly out of specs. So.... I ordered cheap aftermarket cdi from eBay. Going to plug it in and see if that’s the problem. Anyone tried these Cdis?
    Scary part is stator ohms out perfect, but when I checked voltage from pulser coil while cranking I only get around 3v. I read I should get 4-5. That makes me worried it’s stator. Are these hard to replace?

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Ok, more than likely the CDI. Unplugging the stop switch was just a free and quick way to diagnose 1st thing. If CDI does not fix it and you end up replacing the stator, it is not that difficult to replace but you will have to remove the flywheel and best to have engine removed to do that. Just know when looking for parts that you must use a matching flywheel/stator. The 701 comes in a 61x or 62t. Just make sure to get a stator that matches your flywheel version as they have different magnet setups.

  8. #8
    Yikes! Not what I wanted to hear! I was hoping you could replace it without pulling motor. You pull flywheel off with puller? I read where some could be replaced without pulling flywheel. Guess I ain’t that lucky huh? You have any experience using these cheap aftermarket cdis? The one I got has rev limiter. Adjustable from 7850-8850 rpms. What do you suggest running it at?

    thanks for all the help!

  9. #9
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Yeah have to use a puller and usually give it a good whack with a hammer once it gets tight. If you have enough clearance in front of the motor to get a puller in there then you may could leave it in the hull but I'm not sure how much clearance you have in front of flywheel. The stator is behind the flywheel and only way to get stator off is to remove the flywheel. 2 bolts hold the stator on.

    I don't have experience with those aftermarket cdi's since I've just had OEM modded ones or MSD with the adjustable limiter but I'd suggest setting rev limited in the middle. The only time you'll be able to rev that high is when the ski comes out of the water. The hp & prop pitch will still be the limiting factor of the WOT RPM while running in the water.

  10. #10
    I got cdi in and installed yesterday. As soon as I plugged it in and pressed the start button I could see the spark. So, apparently it was the cdi. Ran it for about 20 min and it seems to run fine. I guess I’ll gamble and see how long the aftermarket lasts. At least I know that it was the problem. I really appreciate all the help!
    Thanks!

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